Yep, I agree. I know for a fact that these meters (and every other meter I have tried in the sub $100 price range) are biased to cooler tints.
I just yesterday found out that my most used integrating sphere warms up the spectrum by a few hundred K, maybe I should use a cheaper luxmeter to compensate for that :party:
I would not do any math. It’s not about super accuracy. I would use the number right off the meter for NW lights.
For CW I would just bump it down about 3% worth. So a cool white light measuring 1000 lm would be 970, etc… Easy peasy.
I have a new Extech LT45 luxmeter (to be tested together with some other new luxmeters) that because of the imperfect spectrum sensitivity has pre-sets for different light tints, which is about the same what you suggest here. 
Smooth surface, face to face
Grooves are outward
Scotch tape fixed on both sides
Minor reduction of light
Put into the tube
Leave some gap between the illuminometer and the tube
Fully charged battery eneloop AAA
I get perfect data
BLF 348
Olight i3E EOS
I can see a lot of light escaping.
Maybe those small lights need a tighter fitting centering ring?
Not if it’s calibrated correct right now. Don’t touch anything, just enjoy 
I disagree. Plus I don’t think it’s calibrated. If keeping the leaking light in the tube makes the readings go up, then it’s reading high.
In my opinion, the fit around the light should be a bit tighter (although it doesn’t always seem to make that big of a change) and the lux meter needs to be pushed all the way in. This is how you will get consistent results with other lights.
First test：LuminTop ODF30
moon： 11
Low：191
Med：682
High：2140
Turbo：4270
ODF30 Now
moon： 4
Low：124
Med：447
High：1423
Turbo：2850
Standard flashlight test light escaping too much?
Light escaping is not a problem by itself, consistency is when the escaping light is the same fraction for all lights.
Exactly my point.
I just tested with my own BLF348 and it read 1 lumen higher with a custom centering ring vs the smallest normal ring.
And what about with your lux meter slightly pulled out?
The meter position will be relative, it will effect all the readings by a fixed percentage. It basically becomes part of the calibration.
That said I do not recommend using the meter position as part of the calibration as it is too hard to keep it consistent over the long term.
Adding a little electrical tape to the inside of the 1st bend would be a better way to fine tune the readings since that will not be effected by bumping the sphere.
That was the point I was trying to make earlier. It’s best to put the meter all the way in so that it’s consistent and then find some other way to adjust the output up or down to get the correct Lumen reading straight from the meter.
Also, the vast majority of my lights have a fairly decent fit through the centering ring holes. If I were going to be using those extra small diameter lights to do the calibration, I would probably rig up something simple to prevent that extra light from getting out.
Sorry if I sounded grumpy.
Thats about right… i got 3150 lumen @ turn on… and 3090 lumen… odf30 is a joke… sometimes turbo mode doesnt want to work… lumintop should have use spring tailcap… oh well…
I think it’s a pretty good light.
The tail cap lacks springyness. Just pull the tab up a little so the battery gets compressed. Then you should get turbo for about 1m30s or more. I might replace that tab for a regular spring and bypass it.
I got about 3050 lumen at 30s.
I don’t use it because it lacks a mode around 1000 lm and has the weird one click on and press/hold off. Also, I don’t like glued lights.
I can’t seem to find any 26650 boost driver light that meets my needs. I’m just waiting for Lexel to start selling his drivers.
My lights came today. I will give a report once I have some time to play. Thanks again Maukka
More lights arrived today. All the people on the list will have their sets sent out this week.
I also got my lights - very happy, thanks Maukka!