If you change the resistor value, it’ll mess with other things too… and you’ll have to recalibrate and reflash the firmware, assuming it even works at all.
The calibration process is documented in the ToyKeeper/battcheck/ directory.
Thanks for the answer ToyKeeper. Your readme describes thoroughly the whole procedure.
As you might have already guessed, I won’t be going through the hassle 
Hi all!
I damaged the LED so I need to replace it. I have the 1A version (cold). Can someone please tell me where I can find a replacement? What exactly do I need? If it is possible to replace the whole head… even better. So I can spare myself of soldering. I can’t find any parts on the web :(.
Thank you!
Grab a Noctigon MCPCB with an XP-L or XM-L2 emitter already installed, probably from somewhere like intl-outdoor.com, and it should be pretty easy to replace the emitter and the board it’s soldered onto. Just get one matching the original MCPCB size, and it should work fine. This will require unsoldering the +/- contacts though, then soldering those wires onto a new board.
BTW, if you want it more throwy, try XP-L HI.
My favorite for this light is XP-L 3D or XM-L2 3D. They give a nice wide hotspot in a neutral tint. I don’t recall offhand which one fits the centering ring better though.
MCPCB CREE XP-L V6 1A LED on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB
Thermal compound under the MCPCB Search - compound
As your from greece this may not be a good shipping option but this is what you’ll need for the swap.
16mm copper board with led and thermal compound to transfer the heat to the flashlight.
Fasttech, or Kaidomain, may be cheaper on you from your location.
The swap will require soldering as Toykeeper explained. Not very high on the difficulty scale.
Thank you both for your suggestions!
Hey guys, I need an other advice. It is not possible to unscrew the head of the lamp. And I mean, I cannot unscrew the tube that contains the driver & the LED from the tube that contains the reflector. Anyone who had similar issues? Any suggestions? I don’t want to damage the tubes, thus I did’t use any tools, but for sure I tried very hard, it’s just not possible. Thank you!
If you have a pair of rubber gloves lying around, that might give you a bit of extra grip. Otherwise, you could try a pair of strap wrenches, although you might be just as well buying a new light for the cost of the strap wrenches and the spare parts.
Rubber gloves made the job! That was I great idea! Thanks a lot Phlogiston! Cheers!
Excellent! I’m glad it worked
We have an A6 each and are waiting on the tools mentioned in this thread Guide: how to flash ATtiny13a based drivers (NANJG, QLITE, etc.) with custom firmware to arrive… But my question is this what else can we do with regards to modding/flashing the firmware? what othe firmwares are there?? I have the the 11mode(think its that) and partner has the 7/4 mode firmware… Could we flash the 11 mode version on her A6? if so where do I get it etc?
looking forward to pushing the A6 further
regards
Lohtse
Click the Link in my signature for more information about these things.
Already watch/reading them…but a lot to go through so was hoping for quick answers to point me in the right directions
The INDEX file has a list of firmware projects sorted by various criteria. I’d suggest looking for projects which list support for dual PWM, attiny13, and clicky switches.
ok and thank you….Can i flash the 11 mode firmware on partners A6 is so which is it?
I don’t even know what the 11-mode firmware is. It doesn’t sound familiar, unless “11” means “7+4”.
On mine, I run something a little different… cypreus2. It’s similar to blf-a6 in the 7-level mode, with no memory and no config options. But in the hidden blinkies, it has a lot more modes:
(the current version is rearranged a little, but this shows the general idea)
I believe you once mentioned that ( Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available - #6194 by ToyKeeper) that I had Bistro flashed on mine when I one asked why it didn’t match the advertise setup… Where as my partners had the stock/first firmware… SO does that mean I can flash the bistro firmware? and s the currrent one in the index same as the one flashed on mine?
It has been a while. However, if there is a question about what type of MCU is on the driver, you should probably look at the chip to find out. It should be either tiny13 (blf-a6) or tiny25 (bistro).
Or it should be pretty clear which is which any time you turn it on at a medium level. BLF-A6 lights up at the target level immediately, while Bistro has a soft start effect which glides from zero to the target level over about a third or a quarter of a second. Or you could tell by entering config mode. BLF-A6 blinks twice, pauses, blinks twice, pauses, then exits. However, Bistro has a much longer config menu.
I know that my partners is the original BLF A6…and on spring side says a17dd_l and blf,
thank you for answering my questions and your patience…
You MUST read the actual tattoo on the 8-pin chip. Either chip can be on that same driver board and trying to flash the wrong file can lock the driver up.
She’s trying to help you out, telling her what the DRIVER says doesn’t answer the question she asked in order to better answer your questions. It’s like you’re not reading her posts, just the first line of each…