Test of a Luminus SST-20-W 3000K 95CRI led

If you round off correctly, in this Nichia terminology it would go from 9790 to 9680, sounds a bit less dramatic.

A TIR kind of makes a blend of what in a reflector light goes to the hotspot and the spill so the result could be somewhere in between the bare led and the reflector hotspot, who knows. But to know what really happens, I’m planning an E2L with this led (will not start that until a week from now), I can measure it by then.
Btw, in my taste a hotspot tint on top of the BBL is excellent!

If you choose the 3000K leds for the KD triple it should be this led, they have no other 3000K SST-20 listed, and actually AFAIK another type 3000K SST-20 does not exist has not been seen around yet. Mind that that KD triple board is not compatible with Carclo optics, only with the in-house KD optic that is sold together with the board.

If only I could get the 4000k version of this LED.

There’s literally no other source of SST-20s except for Kaidomain.

Do you know if this optic is still the same as a few years back? I tried it once but it had a lot of artifacts.

No I don’t. I bought one more than a year ago and have never used it.

Thanks for the clarification.

The excell sheet is big, with lots of other led data as well, and I’m not too handy with excel so slicing it to size already is a challenge.
I hope the raw data will do as well? :innocent:

Do you think, this emitter is safe to be used in an Astrolux S41S quad, or in a Sofirn C8F triple?

You should be ok with a (direct drive) triple on one 18650, if it is over 15A you get in the danger zone but with its Vf a bit higher than the 219B you will not get there. More likely you will end up at 9-12A which would be perfect. To be sure you can start with springs without bypasses and measure current.

Not true of the SST-20 in general. Quite true of the high-CRI warm white SST-20s.

I made a Jaxman E2L triple (shorty) with the SST-20 3000K 95CRI, to see how the led behaves in TIR optics.

Unfortunately I only had a frosted triple Carclo optic while I wanted a clear one for this build. I half polished it so that it now is in between clear and frosted.

The driver is a BLF-A6 driver. I will make a lighted tail later so I added a 680 Ohm bleeder resistor. Also I ‘fixed’ the driver from voltage spikes on the CPU as suggested by DEL (not really needed for the very tolerant Attiny13 in the BLF-A6 driver but I did it anyway).

I did no spring bypasses because I do not want to over-stress these leds and this small light with so many amps will become too hot too soon anyway.

The beam is very smooth with no disturbing tint variations, perhaps a true clear narrow optic would have produced a more distinct hotspot.

The tint and CRI has not quite suffered from this optic, to state it lightly, it is as nice as you will ever want it to be.

Hotspot at a mode under 350mA (so regulated at 350mA, ~120mA/led):

Outside the hotspot at a mode under 350mA:

Hotspot at max (on a Vapcell 18350, 1150lm, about 8 amps, ~2.7A per led)

Nice Jozz, can’t wait for mine to arrive. Is that a white wall?

Yes the wall is white, and I even made the effort to post-edit the white-balance of this pic to match my phonescreen with what I see in reality. (which will be a bit different again on any other screen of course).

Nice, thnx for the effort. Planned this led for my reylight pineapple, but I think I will try it in a quad tir also now.

Looks very good. Glad the tint is below BBL so it wont be so yellowish like on the LH351D 4000k I just tried.

At under 3000K the light will appear yellow anyway, even under the BBL, it is the added rosiness that makes it look so good (or boring for that matter, it is indistinguishable from a halogen spotlight).

You underestime this fact. I tried some cree 2700k 90 CRI XD16 and they are green

I’ve tried a Cree 3000k flashlight and it was yellow lime. No way I could use it for any purpose.

Even for general purpose use, I would prefer the rosy on my 3000k 9050 nichia 219b over the yellow lime 4000k LH351D 90CRI.

My 219B 4000k 9050 looks so tintless pure white next to the 4000k LH351D 90CRI.

Djozz, how is the tint in moonlight mode? Just hate it when moonlight turns the tint to crap.

I can not measure that now because I have no bare led reflowed at the moment to check just a few mA. The triple at moonlight is of course a PWM-ed 350mA so if moonlight is made that way the tint will be just as good.

If the cool white version is of any indication, there’s significant shift on low currents.