ENEDED

Hi flashtom, will you able to get the lumen reading on the sc26 ?

I think both of my sc26 are flawlessā€¦ what do you guys think?

Yeah, I was, so I got one anyway thinking it was likely a mistake, but I am reasonably happy - just wish they had done a better job with ramping since they had all that extra time and help from TA.

+1 what Vinte77 and shirnask said.

Other than a little angst while awaiting for PP Protection to refund, Iā€™m satisfied with final outcome.

Thanks to FreemeGB, Banggood and Haikelite for making these available at the pre-order price and with the higher components.

I wish I could but I do not have the proper equipment here. Sorry. :person_facepalming:

Got mine today.

Ramping not as good as Narsil firmware :face_with_monocle: just a tad slower

i suspect itā€™s linear gradient rather exponential ramping

Wow Nicolicous, you got 3 and in very nice colorsā€¦ Anybody know if you can flash Narsil onto the stock driver? If so maybe someone would be willing to offer that as a service, where we can send in the stock driver for reflashing.

Got my blue XHP35HD NW SC26 today!

Working off the confirmation that the blue is indeed beautiful, it seemed only logical that more blue would be drop dead gorgeous, so six 1.5 x 6 mm blue Trits were installed, posthaste.

I ran into something I never have encountered before. The Trit slots are a bit shallow, only 1.385 mm deep, which means that a properly installed standard 1.5 mm diameter Trit extends slightly above the surface of the forebody (and yes, I always hold all my Trits down with a pin during the initial cure to keep them from floating up). None of the Trit slots in any of my other devices are this shallow, they all allow for below flush installations.

The best Trits are usually made with a borosilicate glass envelope, which should be fairly durable, but Iā€™m not sure about the ones Banggood sells, which is where I got mine.

However, the extra projection seems to add a bit more bling, which is nice, if they hold up. Time will tell.

Another thing I noticed when doing the post Trit installation cleanup on the light using acetone, NONE of the anodizing dye color came off on the white wipe I was using. Iā€™ve done a fair number of Trit installations and am used to seeing traces of anodizing dye color on post installation cleanup, even with some black lights. Hopefully this is indicative that the SC26 anodization colors are well bonded/sealed and will prove durable in the long term

jmm244 - how about a pic to show how far the trits extend above the surface and what glue are you using

I canā€™t get a decent picture but a measured 1.500 mm diameter Trit in a 1.385 deep slot should only stick up .115 mm or .0045 inches, but it seems the Trits are sticking up between .33 and .47 mm, (that particular kind of measurement is very difficult to do consistently with verniers, even decent resolution electronic ones). It doesnā€™t sound like much, but is quite noticeable when you run your thumb across them. One sticks up a little farther than the rest, maybe that slot was even shallower, as I only measured the depth of a couple of them and itā€™s too late to re-check that one now. It could be that the Trits rose up as the adhesive shrank while it cured as I only held them down for the first minute, until I thought things had firmed up enough. Again Iā€™ve done more than a few Trits, and if there was a tendency for them to raise up .3 or .4 mm as the adhesive cured I wold probably never have noticed it before as all my other Trit slots were way deep and the installed vials are still more than.4mm below their surrounding surfaces.

The SC26 Trits do NOT contact anything if you put the light down on its side on a smooth flat surface because the front of the light kicks up a bit, but any objects/clutter on the same surface could give them a bump, as could an adjacent light in a bezel down vertical storage scenario.

I used a Norland UV curing adhesive, NOA 61, and cured it with a 365 nm Nitecore GEM8UV. Norland claims a ā€œLinear Shrinkageā€ of 1.5% with that adhesive, which I never considered excessive.

Thanks, I use the same adhesive and will probably add some ice blue trits that I have left over to my light but my UV light is dead so I have not tried to mount them. A little disappointing that they stick out above the surface because if they can be broken I usually find a way to manage it

Received my blue with XHP35 HD CW today. Somewhat disappointed in the blue color of my example as itā€™s a deep navy blue, (almost black in certain light), as opposed to the beautiful bright blue freeme showed with his example.

Other than that, the light is flawless. No flaws at all in the body, lens or reflector and a beautiful pure white beam with no hints of blue or green. Just the way I like it in my lights. Itā€™s as beautiful a beam as in my D1 and thatā€™s saying something.

It came in a box with cutouts for another light but no big deal. I agree with another poster about the ramping being kind of slow, slower than my D1 but again, no big deal.

The switch is a little ā€œrubberyā€ or ā€œsquishyā€ feeling but I can live with it.

I have a Butler Creek Blizzard flip open scope cover for this on the way that Iā€™ll apply the diffusion flim to like I did with my D1 which will make the light even handier.

Al in all, this light and my D1 are true BUDGET LIGHTS! With all you get for under $40.00 make these true bargains!

I noticed that about the depth of the trit slots right off.

I took my SC26 that arrived earlier today out to play this evening and and was surprised at how tight the beam was, considering I ordered a HD. Looked closer at the LED with a magnifier, NO DOME. Checked the box XHP35 HI. My invoice clearly states ā€œDesign: XHP35 HD NWā€ (at least they got the NW right). My bad for not checking everything out thoroughly before I installed the Trits, lesson learned (yeah, sure.)

Im surprised you bought a NW. I thought youre a CW person.

I want to try something differentā€¦ nw is actually not that badā€¦ i use these lights for the short range between 50 feet to 200 feetā€¦ nw is more easy on eyes and doesnt bounce back bright white light like a cw.

I just found out nw is good for indoor lighting such as warehouse, rooms, and even treesā€¦

I too like NW for lighting indoor trees

Honestly, there is not much difference between the two beam profiles. My HD has a more pronounced corona around the hot spot, my HI has a bright hot spot that fades to the spill with no pronounced ring. My personal thought is the reflector style/design with the domeless HI emitter produces a better beam.

Here you go. The trit sits .55mm proud. Which means, the slots are only about 1mm deep. I didnā€™t install the other 5 because of this. However, the single trit above the button, makes finding the button at night easy. Used Norland UV adhesive, cured for 3 minutes.

Has anyone taken the driver out to see if it can be replaced or modified to increase the output?

Still waiting on mine; USPS has been saying ā€œIn transit to next facilityā€ for the past 3 days. So itā€™s in the US, somewhereā€¦ :weary:

Thank you, thatā€™s exactly what I wanted to know.

One trit is probably the best idea for someone like me, if it can be broken I will find a way. Will have to wait till my new UV light gets here. I killed the last one :person_facepalming: