GB 351D closed.

Just installed 3x LH351Ds in my C8F from the last batch and shipments. They look too cold, I knew it at first sight. I've compared the beam against a 30° TIR equipped S2+ using a known good LH351D 4000K CRI90+ from the first set of shipments, I must have received 5000K CRI70+ emitters.

Could you please confirm if possible, AEDe? Thanks.

Theoreticaly I can made a mistake…
Could you send me macro photo of 351D 4000K from first butch together with “351D 4000K” from last one?

colors of luminofor of 4000K is very differ from colors of 5000K ones

If is really 5000K, I ll resend 351D 4000K to you.

After a quick glance at 'em they look pretty similar. Will take a shot or two out of their strip packages later. Optics from the above flashlights are completely different, thus the comparison isn't fair. Colors look good but I don't have a known low CRI emitter flashlight :-D at hand now. Got me alarmed, though.

Will have to wait a bit for now, thanks.

Cheers :-)

5000K has yellow luminophore white 4000K has a bit orange one.

Put them under UV light, like 365nm and they’ll show you if they’re a difference :

No need for photos, they're definitively orange. In fact just noticed the only unused and not orange looking emitter I have in my cardboard :-D cache emitter box is one of those 5000K CRI90+ XP-G3s (1 out of 46).

The second batch is an L6 chromaticity bin, ≈125K cooler than the first (L7). I am impressed by how much a reflector can influence the final perceived tint, beam corona looks yellowish while hotspot and spill are a noticeably cooler white.

Thanks all for the input.

Hence the dreaded “fried egg” beam…

Yellower center/hotspot, bluer outside/spill.

Okay, now I want some fried eggs…

Well, sort of Lightbringer. The hotspot is sort of yellow, the corona is yellower and the spill is of a cooler temperature.

:-)

Yeah, I got a bunch of lights where the corona is lemon-yellow while the hotspot is also yellowish but not nearly as much, and the spill is blue-white.

The LH351D certainly doesn’t like larger SMO reflectors.

Mine arrived today

How does the tint on the new batch compare with the old? Is it greener or less green? The tint batch is supposed to be below the BBL?

Anyone have an idea or guess how the Vf of the 351D 4000K 90CRI emitter compares to the Vf of the 219CT 5000K 90CRI emitter? I put 2 of the Samsung and 2 of the Nichias (from a D4) in a Q8 and visa versa. My impression is that output decreased a little in the D4, but tint, CRI, and throw improved. I don't want to push the Q8 too hard due to the 3 additional cells. I did turbo a bit and detected on no blue tint warning of overheating. I'm not a good judge of output, tint, and CRI by eye though. I'm assuming the CRI didn't actually increase, but it appeared like it did to my eye.

I really like the combo tint and CRI wise, but I don't want to fry one set of emitters due to significantly lower Vf. I really need to setup a heat sink with light tube and test each emitter, but I'm hoping someone in the know already knows.

EDIT: Clarified wording.

EDIT2: Caught typo (strike out above). Sorry for all the edit's folks.

Mine arrived yesterday, forgot to check the mail :person_facepalming: Thanks!

I put 4 of the new batch in my D4…and I don’t like them :frowning:
I see a green hue in the color. It’s a shame because the beam is way smoother than with 219C, there’s no artifact.
What’s strange is, I put another one in my Sofirn SP32A and the color is as nice as the old batch…
Could it be the AR glass ? Or the TIR ?

Well that’s simple to correct with a minus green filter.

What filter would you recommend for the job?

I keep meaning to order one of those kits but never seem to have the money when I am thinking about it and don’t think about it when I have some money lol

Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.

Thanks! I am thinking I will buy a sheet of 803, 804 and 805. The output loss sucks but at least it could make otherwise unusable lights look good.

Would you say these are the best sheets to get if I can only get 2 or 3?

That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.