Put them under UV light, like 365nm and they’ll show you if they’re a difference :
No need for photos, they're definitively orange. In fact just noticed the only unused and not orange looking emitter I have in my cardboard :-D cache emitter box is one of those 5000K CRI90+ XP-G3s (1 out of 46).
The second batch is an L6 chromaticity bin, ≈125K cooler than the first (L7). I am impressed by how much a reflector can influence the final perceived tint, beam corona looks yellowish while hotspot and spill are a noticeably cooler white. 
Thanks all for the input.
Hence the dreaded “fried egg” beam…
Yellower center/hotspot, bluer outside/spill.
Okay, now I want some fried eggs…
Well, sort of Lightbringer. The hotspot is sort of yellow, the corona is yellower and the spill is of a cooler temperature.
:-)
Yeah, I got a bunch of lights where the corona is lemon-yellow while the hotspot is also yellowish but not nearly as much, and the spill is blue-white.
Mine arrived today
How does the tint on the new batch compare with the old? Is it greener or less green? The tint batch is supposed to be below the BBL?
Anyone have an idea or guess how the Vf of the 351D 4000K 90CRI emitter compares to the Vf of the 219CT 5000K 90CRI emitter? I put 2 of the Samsung and 2 of the Nichias (from a D4) in a Q8 and visa versa. My impression is that output decreased a little in the D4, but tint, CRI, and throw improved. I don't want to push the Q8 too hard due to the 3 additional cells. I did turbo a bit and detected on no blue tint warning of overheating. I'm not a good judge of output, tint, and CRI by eye though. I'm assuming the CRI didn't actually increase, but it appeared like it did to my eye.
I really like the combo tint and CRI wise, but I don't want to fry one set of emitters due to significantly lower Vf. I really need to setup a heat sink with light tube and test each emitter, but I'm hoping someone in the know already knows.
EDIT: Clarified wording.
EDIT2: Caught typo (strike out above). Sorry for all the edit's folks.
Mine arrived yesterday, forgot to check the mail :person_facepalming: Thanks!
I put 4 of the new batch in my D4…and I don’t like them 
I see a green hue in the color. It’s a shame because the beam is way smoother than with 219C, there’s no artifact.
What’s strange is, I put another one in my Sofirn SP32A and the color is as nice as the old batch…
Could it be the AR glass ? Or the TIR ?
Well that’s simple to correct with a minus green filter.
What filter would you recommend for the job?
I keep meaning to order one of those kits but never seem to have the money when I am thinking about it and don’t think about it when I have some money lol
Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.
Thanks! I am thinking I will buy a sheet of 803, 804 and 805. The output loss sucks but at least it could make otherwise unusable lights look good.
Would you say these are the best sheets to get if I can only get 2 or 3?
That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.
Great, thanks for the tip.
I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.
Cheers ^:)
Yeah I fear that I’ve became a tint snob :face_with_monocle:
The green hue does disappear with higher modes though,but since I love to use the <350mA modes more often, I have to fix that
At times I've thought the lower CRI emitters “exploit a sort of cheat” with the lumen output, because our eyes, brains and minds are more or less sensitive depending on light frequency:
Light Measurement @ TutorVista.com
Thus, output from lower CRI emitters may seem to dazzle or blind more because they're using more power output in the light frequencies we're more sensitive to. But their light is a cheat that does not abide well to the spectral power distribution profiles of the sun/blackbody radiator, something which can be felt. 
Cheers ^:)