Q8 modding

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djozz
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The 219B V1 ‘s have the low voltage of the 219C so will draw as much current, but they can not handle the direct drive, you will get over 6 amps each which is the max for 219C’s (In my Q8 with 219C’s I even used long thin led wires to get the current down to under 5A per led) but it is way overcurrent for the 219B that should idealy stay under 3A per led!!

joechina
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Ups!

@Djozz
The last **groupbuy from Clemence was also for 219B V1 or?

Sorry I don’t know my LEDs what stand that V1 for?

I want to put them in the FW3A. As triple they should be good for 12A. Do I have a problem with a Samsung 30Q in TURBO?
I should somehow guess, better measure, the Amps.

djozz
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Yes, I think all 219B’s still for sale are V1 versions, which are an upgrade of the original 219B but apparently not different enough to already be called 219C. The most significant difference as far as I noticed was a significantly lower Vf, but about the same output and same fairly low current handling.

In this test 219B and 219B V1 is compared: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43751

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ok so, update… ordered a new driver, MCPCB and 8 of the Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI…
shame i coulden’t use the N219s but… live and learn, right lol
tnx everyone for the assist, i’ll update again once the new parts arrive. Smile

:::Edit::: On another note, has anyone dedomed a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI yet? If so, resaults?

djozz
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FritzHID wrote:

:::Edit::: On another note, has anyone dedomed a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI yet? If so, resaults?


Not dedomed, I sliced a few. After slicing close to the phosfor I sanded the surface with very sand paper. The result is 20% light loSs, 3400K end colour temp, 93CRI and a very very good tint. The 20% loss is more than average, I wonder if it would be less if I did an even better polishing job.
FritzHID
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djozz wrote:
FritzHID wrote:

:::Edit::: On another note, has anyone dedomed a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI yet? If so, resaults?


Not dedomed, I sliced a few. After slicing close to the phosfor I sanded the surface with very sand paper. The result is 20% light loSs, 3400K end colour temp, 93CRI and a very very good tint. The 20% loss is more than average, I wonder if it would be less if I did an even better polishing job.

Awesome, tnx… how was the beam pattern? was this on a single or multi chip light?

djozz
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Single emitter lights, the beam is very good. The only big disadvantage is the light loss, the lh351d is found to be a realtively efficient high CRI led, you loose that advantage.

FritzHID
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djozz wrote:
Single emitter lights, the beam is very good. The only big disadvantage is the light loss, the lh351d is found to be a realtively efficient high CRI led, you loose that advantage.

hmmm, ok…. well i bought enough to do a few mods so maybe i’ll exp with a couple. maybe a whitegas dedome.
tnx again

Anthon
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Anybody measured cd with xpl HI and spring bypass??

Bob_McBob
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What is the recommended method for Q8 spring bypass when the light is used reasonably often? I just added some solder blobs at the top and bottom and ran short 22AWG leads between them.

Jtm94
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That’s all you really need. Some wire bypassing the spring nothing special.

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My Samsungs came in so here’s the pix….

Fence is 100 FT away. Camera settings are locked all around.

GT stock
https://imgur.com/iGQs4jx

Q8 Stock
https://imgur.com/3ef2NQb

Q8 Samsungs
https://imgur.com/ld2edr3

JasonWW
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Here you go:

FritzHID wrote:
My Samsungs came in so here’s the pix….

Fence is 100 FT away. Camera settings are locked all around.

GT stock

Q8 Stock

Q8 Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

FritzHID
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tnx jason!

shirnask
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Samsung LH351D looks very nice!

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shirnask wrote:
Samsung LH351D looks very nice!

They really are! in person, even better, might be the best LEDs i’ve seen thus far.

joechina
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Facepalm And I bought only 8 of the Samsungs
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joechina wrote:
Facepalm And I bought only 8 of the Samsungs
Big Smile Thats exactly what i said after i installed these on my Q8! “Damnit, i on;ly bought 8???”
deus1ex
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FritzHID wrote:
My Samsungs came in so here’s the pix….

Fence is 100 FT away. Camera settings are locked all around.

GT stock
https://imgur.com/iGQs4jx

Q8 Stock
https://imgur.com/3ef2NQb

Q8 Samsungs
https://imgur.com/ld2edr3

Did you bridge the feathers on your Q8 with Samsung Led?

FritzHID
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deus1ex wrote:

Did you bridge the feathers on your Q8 with Samsung Led?

beg pardon?

goshdogit
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deus1ex wrote:
Did you bridge the feathers on your Q8 with Samsung Led?
FritzHID wrote:
beg pardon?

I think ‘deus1ex’ is asking if you’ve “bypassed the springs” on your Q8 with the Samsung emitters. Smile

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goshdogit wrote:
deus1ex wrote:
Did you bridge the feathers on your Q8 with Samsung Led?
FritzHID wrote:
beg pardon?

I think ‘deus1ex’ is asking if you’ve “bypassed the springs” on your Q8 with the Samsung emitters. Smile

Ah! TYVM!
& yes, both lights are bypassed.

deus1ex
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Yes that’s what I meant. Thank you

Bob_McBob
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Speaking of Samsungs, since I happen to have both stock and LH351D (4000K high CRI) right now, here’s a side-by-side shot with daylight white balance.

nkresho
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Just re-tested my q8 after recalibrating my sphere with the maukka lights.

I replaced the tail pcb with a copper disc and bypassed the springs with 20ga Teflon wire, passed through the copper and soldered. I also replaced the fet with a SIRA20DP. LEDs are stock. I also added the kaidomain AR glass. Brass screws on the driver and the tail plate.

I got 5,966 lumens at start and 5,586 at 30 seconds. I’m pretty happy with the results.

Q8 with copper tail
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nkresho wrote:
Just re-tested my q8 after recalibrating my sphere with the maukka lights.

I replaced the tail pcb with a copper disc and bypassed the springs with 20ga Teflon wire, passed through the copper and soldered. I also replaced the fet with a SIRA20DP. LEDs are stock. I also added the kaidomain AR glass. Brass screws on the driver and the tail plate.

I got 5,966 lumens at start and 5,586 at 30 seconds. I’m pretty happy with the results.

Q8 with copper tail

I like that, I have done a few like that, called it the inner bling, makes it a true keeper, well done my man! Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

nkresho
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Yours looks a lot cleaner though. Very nice. Makes me want to take it apart to polish it now. I did the super stiff springs that mtn offers. They’re a little skinnier diameter but heavier gauge and they got rid of the butt-bump blink.

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Personally, I would have put the whole copper disc in a pool of solder, or electroplated it with nickel if possible.

Corrosion makes this look poor compared to the original tailcap, and it doesn’t offer any higher power throughput that the LEDs can actually accept.

It already uses 2mm thick copper traces, and that is already massive.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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new order of 25 351D 4000K chips comming in… i’m doing mods on the Q8 if anyone wants in.

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nkresho wrote:
Yours looks a lot cleaner though. Very nice. Makes me want to take it apart to polish it now. I did the super stiff springs that mtn offers. They’re a little skinnier diameter but heavier gauge and they got rid of the butt-bump blink.

Butt Bump Blink! Big Smile I added the 2 copper crush washer discs to the original springs because of the BBB! I polished it all up after building it and then cleaned/sealed it with NO-OX-ID “A” Special.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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