The D1S and GT mini are essentially the same light. The drivers on both are press fit in and glued. They are almost the same size. Driver’s are similar in function… the D1S was kept simpler by the mfr.s wishes. Beam profile too is very similar and they can both be tweaked to pretty high output. The D1S has a short thread on top of the tube and at the driver, can be problematic with longer cells like button tops and protected cells. At the end of the day they really are similar lights but with different design. If both are flashed with Anduril so they perform the same, the differences are really very minimal. I have 2 D1s’s and the GT mini, I like em very much, both for different reasons.
Last night, stock light, looking down the road-under-construction in front of our house…
This afternoon, broke in through the Blue Loctite…
A look at the tail cap with the copper disc replacing the pcb…
The business end, showing the new Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI with the dome left on…
FWIW, once the loctite was defeated removal of the driver was easy. De-soldered the emitter leads then ran a small jewelers screwdriver alongside the black wire to the driver, couple of bumps on the screwdriver and the driver was free.
im in for 2, how do i order ?
Just received my GT mini a few minutes ago! It looks great.
Received it today. Very good looking light. Really love it how much it looks like the GT!
received my GT mini :+1: 
Got mine today and I love it!
Finish is great
Threads are great
Reflector is great
AR coating is great
NW - bordering WW - is great, same as on Big Brother.
Short tube is great
Throw is great - especially for its size.
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Packaging was also great: light in foam in a Lumintop box, that box wrapped with bubblefoam put in a plain box, with plastic over it to protect against moisture!!
Cheers,
Nico
That is unfortunate… whyyyyyyyyyy
So, DB you’re saying that I’m as strong as the hulk?
I just opened my GT mini with my bare hands!
Fortunately, though I do see some signs of loctite on the bezel, it was not enough to glue the bezel!
Unfortunately, while putting the bezel back on something weird happened.
The led separated itself from the mcpcb!
Very odd. Maybe the plastic centering ring is gripping the reflector too tightly?
Is there an o-ring preventing the reflector from spinning against the glass?
Looks like the centering ring and reflector are indeed tightly together. Same as the led in the centering ring.
Also, even if there was an o-ring it wouldn’t prevent it from spinning against the glass. Rubber will have much more ‘grip’.
Normally the glass will spin against the reflector or the reflector will spin against the centering ring to prevents this from happening.
Well, the bezel isn’t glued in my light, maybe just luck?
Anyhow, I did some tests today, using a 3 year old Efest purple INR2500 (I think the 2500 LG cell is in there).
So, not the latest and greatest cell there is but still!
Measured at 10m for easy calculations using my cheap LX1330B luxmeter I got:
At start @ turbo (double click) 135Kcd
After approx. 30 seconds 130Kcd
After 30 seconds at maximum ramping 78Kcd.
Mind you, using what is certainly not the best cell and my light is “NW”, but I would rather say it’s WW (same as with my GT).
It could very well be that using a truly CW led it does better.
The light gets quite hot very quickly so it looks like the heat transfer is good as well.
Cheers
Nico
NW its using 4000k tint ? how yellow is that ? also when its hot does it burn your hands like d4 can?
It’s not “yellow” at all, just very NW 
The nice thing about Cree’s “flat dome / HI” leds is that you have no awfully discolored corona and the tint difference between
spot, corona and spill is much less apparent then with the normal cree leds.
My guess is that the XPL HI use is a bit below 4000K but maybe member Maukka can do a real color/CRI test?
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It gets quite hot quickly but (luckily) the build in temperature step down steps in, in time.
The comprehensive manual lets you program the step down as well but I like it the way it is.
The only thing I turned of is the green light under the switch constantly glowing.
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Cheers
Nico
Yep… it seems 4000K was the plan anyway.
Glad I went with CW on this one. 
ok thanks for info, looking forward getting my nw.
On my way home, tracking says it is delivered to the neighbour. If I can retrieve it I will measure colour temp.
Got my GT-mini (NW) and it is a really nice well done light, even nice for actual use! 
The beam is great, as perfect as can be achieved by a medium size smooth reflector and a XP-L Hi, perfect centering and focus, very nice distinct small hotspot with useful corona, no apparent tint shifts. Just the center of the hotspot shows some yellow, a common flaw of the XP-L Hi, has nothing to do with the quality of reflector or host (some leds cause it, other leds don’t, never got it explained by anyone)
The colour temperature I measured 3950K for both hotspot and spill, the hotspot a littlebit above the BBL, the spill on top of the BBL. So at least my copy is pretty exact 4000K.
If I could change anything, I would improve the feel of the switch, it is ok enough but a bit mushy. And a flat bezel from SS of course.
Wow, I wonder if there are different switch boots… I find mine dang near perfect!