XHP70.2 P2 4000k Output test by Texas_Ace - it's over 9000!! lumens and still going strong!

Ok, I was thinking of another model, either way my goal is not to get max lumens on a bench, it is to get realistic real world lumens so people can know what to expect in a light.

My numbers have proven to do this well over time.

I don’t think anyone building a light with a 200W LED is making a “regular” tube flashlight with horrible cooling, like a ‘realistic’ flashlight.

Nice work Ace. I really love the way your graph looks. What program did you use to make that? Also have you done a control test like this with XHP35HI?

Don’t worry, none taken at all my friend… Were all in this together!

Thanks! The graph was done with Excel.

Yes, I have a few dozen LED tests now, you can see them in my sig. A member here made a graph that can compare them if you click the link to see all the tests.

Just curious about the difference in life hours for the 70.2 vs. Hi 35 with peak watt ratings.

talking about the time until the LED is dead or battery life?

The LED life itself is generally far longer then any of us will use a flashlight so it is not something many of us worry about.

Battery life will be less with the XHP70.2 of course since it uses more power.

Someone with a CNC mill could make a nice custom watercooling block from copper. :smiley:

You don’t need all that. I brazed one together from copper using an oxy-acetylene torch 17 or 18 years ago, back before you could buy them. Heck, for the last 15 years now you could just buy a copper water block. Get a bucket of water, put a little antifreeze in it to block algae growth, drop in a submersible pump and away you go. Keep the flow rate high and it will take a very long time before the reservoir starts to warm up. Almost completely silent as well.

Guys what’s the best XHP70.2 emitter for ending up with a nice neutral white without much tint shift after dedoming?

I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.

To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.

I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.

OK, this sounds really serious.
Without dedoming the CRI90 emitters seem to be the best choice right? Or do they all have the same shift pretty much?

If you want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.

To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.

The only 90CRI XHP70.2’s I have seen were warm white ~3000k. Have you seen cooler 90cri LED’s?

Even the 80cri is 4000k. The 4000k 80cri does minimize the green tint shift my is still gets pretty warm / yellow.

It really depends on if you are sensitive to green / yellow hues. I am very sensitive so I don’t bother with de-doming. Others do not mind at all.

3A/3D for 5000K according to https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP702.pdf right? Is this completely independent of the CRI value?

Yeah, it has nothing to do with the CRI.

An A or D tint is best for sure but The ones I have tried still went a bit green, just less then some other tints.

OK thanks. I’ll try to get some of these. 13$ at fasttech…wow

2R and 2U would be even better.

I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,

That was KB that said that and it does seem to work for him, although I think he said that is also can tint shift cooler around the edges after doing that just to a much lesser extent?

Overall that is only for the very advanced modders among us.

Because of the precision needed or what do you mean? What if I remove in safe regions and leave a bit of safety margin?