I have finished the D4S Aux board and tested Generation 3 lighted tail switch board which utilizes the new technology with battery indication
Current draw for the ICs and resistors on it is about 0.05mA
Still impossible to finish the design if noone can tell me the mounting screw distance from center, counting pixels on pictures I get 10-10.35mm
red color 3x for LVP warning
just used 4 different colors to show any color combination is possible
Here my tail board Gen 3, function identical to the D4S aux board
switched to 2. red channel on low battery
on LVP shuts down all LEDs with an idle current bwelow 0.05mA
Arguably the best all-round light on the market is a 26650, the Rofis MR70. They’ve just brought out a 21700 version that doesn’t tickle my balls.
If argument dictates that the Rofis MR70 is the best all-round light on the market I need to quit. That light is very weak looking in my personal opinion, looks like a girl would use it for lighting up the night in a completely different way.
Dale clearly hasn’t shopped for lady toys.
The MR70 looks interesting, with its side flood light and power bank functions. It looks like its beam is only about as throwy as a D4 though, and it only comes in cool white. I’m curious how its interface works, so I might look that up to see how they handled two independent LEDs from one button.
At a glance, here’s what stands out about them as compared to each other.
MR70:
Works as a USB power bank
Has a side flood light
3-4 output levels (low/med/high and timed turbo)
Strobe and SOS modes
Lighted button indicates battery status
D4S:
Smaller
Has lower low modes and higher high modes
Quite a bit more throw
Comes in a variety of host colors and emitter tints
Smooth or stepped configurable ramping from sub-lumen to full power
Adjustable momentary and beacon modes, plus voltage and temperature modes
Can be used for some tasks while locked
More mod-friendly for hardware or firmware changes
Personally, the mode I use the most on pretty much any light is about 5-10 lm out the front, ideally in neutral white with decent CRI. After that, my most-used mode is moon, at about 0.2 or 0.3 lm.
The Emisar lights give me exactly what I want there, with immediate access to both from off. However, the Rofis light doesn’t even have those levels. So it’s a clear choice for me.
I design my boards without undersized viases/smaller distanced between traces, very thin traces ect.,
which increses the production costs on chineese fabs, this makes it often more challenging to get it fit
First step without trimmers 32mm
33mm diameter with potentiometers and 3 separate channels
Lexel, are you looking for the smaller 4 holes in the 33mm MCPCB? I don’t have the D4S yet but I do have the boards and I do have a working X6 using this board. About to head to bed tonight but I can get measurements on the inside ring of 4 small holes if that’s what you’re looking for…. I get 20.0mm across center to center, so 10mm from center of board to center of the small inner circle of holes.
I should point out that this is using a set of cheap plastic calipers’, my good ones are out in the shop on the lathe…
CAN ANYONE ELSE CHIME IN AND ANSWER IF THE SHOCKLI BUTTON TOPS BATTERIES ARE A BAD IDEA OR WONT WORK AS WELL AS THE FLAT TOP ONES FOR THE D4S??
Richard at Mountain Electronics suggests two button-top batteries (one being the Shockli) for the D4S. The pre-order page says that the maximum battery length for the D4S is 69mm and the Shockli is 66.8mm according to his site. Another button-top cell he recommends is 67.8mm and in his words, "Only batteries on the recommended list are guaranteed to work." If he is selling them in conjunction with the D4S, I'd bet they'd work. Of course he's out of stock at the moment. Seems that there was a lot of recent 26650 buying activity. I'm looking at you SC26!
Great stuff PBWilson appreciate the information and response. I may just have to get the shockli button tops then
I saw someone posted D4S with red optics backlight? I only see cyan option at IOS.
Owner of this specific D4S said Hank custom made for him. However, when I e-mail Hank about the custom aux LEDs D4s, he replies “I’m afraid we are not able to offer such option.”
May it is just for China customer or for Hank’s group members only.
The aux LED board uses some common cheap LEDs and they shouldn’t be incredibly difficult to swap out. It’ll be useful to have hot air or a wide solder tip for unsoldering the stock LEDs though.
It looks like it uses the same type of LEDs as several of the clock kits floating around lately. I don’t know what type they are, but they can put out a lot more light than what the D4S does with them.
The aux LED board uses some common cheap LEDs and they shouldn’t be incredibly difficult to swap out. It’ll be useful to have hot air or a wide solder tip for unsoldering the stock LEDs though.
Easiest way is to use two solder irons. Hold them on both ends and lift the led.
On the other hand it’s an excuse to get an hot air station
These LEDs don’t have much metal to grab onto, so I’m not sure the 2-iron method would work unless you have a third hand to grab the LED from the sides at the same time. That method works with resistors and capacitors, which typically have a metal surface to press the iron against, but I haven’t found these to work that way.
Putting them on the board is easy, but getting them off without destroying them is difficult.
I have finished the D4S Aux board and tested Generation 3 lighted tail switch board which utilizes the new technology with battery indication
Current draw for the ICs and resistors on it is about 0.05mA
Still impossible to finish the design if noone can tell me the mounting screw distance from center, counting pixels on pictures I get 10-10.35mm
red color 3x for LVP warning
just used 4 different colors to show any color combination is possible
Here my tail board Gen 3, function identical to the D4S aux board
switched to 2. red channel on low battery
on LVP shuts down all LEDs with an idle current bwelow 0.05mA
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Dale clearly hasn’t shopped for lady toys.
The MR70 looks interesting, with its side flood light and power bank functions. It looks like its beam is only about as throwy as a D4 though, and it only comes in cool white. I’m curious how its interface works, so I might look that up to see how they handled two independent LEDs from one button.
At a glance, here’s what stands out about them as compared to each other.
MR70:
D4S:
Looks worth having. Not sure about the MR70.
Personally, the mode I use the most on pretty much any light is about 5-10 lm out the front, ideally in neutral white with decent CRI. After that, my most-used mode is moon, at about 0.2 or 0.3 lm.
The Emisar lights give me exactly what I want there, with immediate access to both from off. However, the Rofis light doesn’t even have those levels. So it’s a clear choice for me.
But YMMV. Different strokes for different folks.
I’m between this or the Q8, decisions decisions.
You already know the best choice – BOTH!
D4s..
D4 and PL47 boards were the first 2
I design my boards without undersized viases/smaller distanced between traces, very thin traces ect.,
which increses the production costs on chineese fabs, this makes it often more challenging to get it fit
First step without trimmers 32mm
33mm diameter with potentiometers and 3 separate channels
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Nice work, Lexel!
Those boards are beautiful, even without power applied!
Lexel, are you looking for the smaller 4 holes in the 33mm MCPCB? I don’t have the D4S yet but I do have the boards and I do have a working X6 using this board. About to head to bed tonight but I can get measurements on the inside ring of 4 small holes if that’s what you’re looking for…. I get 20.0mm across center to center, so 10mm from center of board to center of the small inner circle of holes.
I should point out that this is using a set of cheap plastic calipers’, my good ones are out in the shop on the lathe…
Great stuff PBWilson appreciate the information and response. I may just have to get the shockli button tops then
Nice Job Lexel …
But why do I read there PL47 and Fireflies on the one design … ?
Can you explain me please ‘cause I’m thinkin’ about to get a second ROT66 (in 4000K HI
) but …
… maybe via PM ?
I saw someone posted D4S with red optics backlight? I only see cyan option at IOS.
Nice, I’d order a second light if red was available.
I was hoping Emisar would make a red backlight version. I am holding out until then.
As far as I have understood, those color-LED boards will be sold seperately in different colours?
Why not make a RGB-version, so people can set their preferred color themselves?
“My collection”: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/700139#comment-700139
+1
Ever notice how, when a manufacturer picks up the gauntlet and offers something new everyone screams MORE, you shoulda, you coulda, you oughta….. ?
Thank you Hank, well done!
Red backlight looks sweet, I’m going to hold until new color shows up.
USB power meter/tester thread
Personally I would’ve preferred a green mimicking tritium but brighter, but blue is pretty too.
I think the cyan will compliment the smooth green perfectly!
Owner of this specific D4S said Hank custom made for him. However, when I e-mail Hank about the custom aux LEDs D4s, he replies “I’m afraid we are not able to offer such option.”
May it is just for China customer or for Hank’s group members only.
The aux LED board uses some common cheap LEDs and they shouldn’t be incredibly difficult to swap out. It’ll be useful to have hot air or a wide solder tip for unsoldering the stock LEDs though.
It looks like it uses the same type of LEDs as several of the clock kits floating around lately. I don’t know what type they are, but they can put out a lot more light than what the D4S does with them.
Sorry, are we still talking about lady toys?
Easiest way is to use two solder irons. Hold them on both ends and lift the led.
On the other hand it’s an excuse to get an hot air station
These LEDs don’t have much metal to grab onto, so I’m not sure the 2-iron method would work unless you have a third hand to grab the LED from the sides at the same time. That method works with resistors and capacitors, which typically have a metal surface to press the iron against, but I haven’t found these to work that way.
Putting them on the board is easy, but getting them off without destroying them is difficult.
This pic, when zoomed in, might show enough to explain why:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4s/full/mcpcb-off.jpg
Solder wick might work!
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