On my way home, tracking says it is delivered to the neighbour. If I can retrieve it I will measure colour temp.
Got my GT-mini (NW) and it is a really nice well done light, even nice for actual use! 
The beam is great, as perfect as can be achieved by a medium size smooth reflector and a XP-L Hi, perfect centering and focus, very nice distinct small hotspot with useful corona, no apparent tint shifts. Just the center of the hotspot shows some yellow, a common flaw of the XP-L Hi, has nothing to do with the quality of reflector or host (some leds cause it, other leds donāt, never got it explained by anyone)
The colour temperature I measured 3950K for both hotspot and spill, the hotspot a littlebit above the BBL, the spill on top of the BBL. So at least my copy is pretty exact 4000K.
If I could change anything, I would improve the feel of the switch, it is ok enough but a bit mushy. And a flat bezel from SS of course.
Wow, I wonder if there are different switch bootsā¦ I find mine dang near perfect!
great :beer:
Stock on a 30Q@30seconds:
129 kcd (measured @7m)
1330 djozz-lumen, =~1240 real lumen
So it pretty much lives up to the specs :+1:
Hmm, fiddling with the light a bit more, and now I have switching problems, it seems that the switch does not make good contact, have to press several times to get the light on and off, and same for ramping. So possibly a mechanical thing. But it could be software too.
Me and GT lights seem an unlucky combination 
Maybe they didnāt get the press fit retaining ring pushed in all the way? Mine really works nicely, very reliable. The switch is mounted on the driver itself, the rubber boot is or should be in a fixed position relative to the switch, so if itās acting weird itās going to either be a loose press fit retaining ring or a loose switch on the driver. If your bezel isnāt glued thatās easy enough to find out and if you can get inside then you should be able to tell if the switch is mounted solidly on the driver.
My bezel is not glued so I will do some digging. Iām not very happy though, it is way nicer if a light works and feels reliable out of the box.
Really odd how some are glued hard, some glued lightly, and some not glued at all. VEry strange. Mine had great gobs of Blue Loctite in the bezel, had to mount it in the 5ā chuck on my lathe and use a pair of 16ā channel locks to break it apart, even then it did not want to let go.
Maybe the driver is turned a little bit too much. It seems the two ears allow for a little rotational play.
Looking at the driver, are the 2 black dots perfectly lined up with the exterior switch?
Maybe your driver needs to be rotated just a tiny bit?
The dots line up fine. And the switch clicks fine as well, you feel a good click and you hear it too, the response to the click (or hold) is just not there, as if the contact surfaces inside the switch are very dirty or something. But Iām not going to solve this tonight, tomorrow there is another day!
Even after being removed the driver presses back into a snug fitting position, even after a few removals. So it at least doesnāt get all loose and floppy after the glue is broken at the driver shelf. And yes, there is that bit of like Elmerās glue holding the driver in place, ears/tabs or not, the driver isnāt shifting around not even after being removed.
GāLuck Josā¦.
It sounds like the switch itself has dirty contacts. Maybe a tiny squirt of contact cleaner may help.
I would say, as mentioned elsewhere here, Beam and output from the BLF GT mini and the Emisar D1S is nearly the same
(BLF GT mini on the right on the third picture)
but the mini gt is smaller and more compact, seems like a better choice 
O.K. you got me
It was an attempt :innocent:
About the only difference I see is that the GT Mini has a bit tighter corona.
DrDevil, do you have a lux meter? Have you done a side by side candela measurement?
Seperate reports have shown they should be about 130kcd to 135kcd. Itās not like anyone could see that difference, but I was just curious to see both measured with the same meter and under the same conditions.
how would u do bounce test on your ceiling anyways? i have a few apps that shows lux but how actually do it proper? Would that even give an estimate on actual lumens ?
Sorry about that, I have neither the equipment nor the expirience for meausuring Lux
Iāve found it to not be very accurate at all due to lights having different beam shapes, etcā¦ Itās also not comparable to anyone elseās numbers as you have differences in table heights, ceiling textures, paint colors, etcā¦ I never used a phone app, only a $30 Dr Meter LX1330B.
Basically you find a table or something similar and mark you a little spot to always tail stand your light. Then I mark a spot about 6 inches to one side to put the meter. Using the same light and meter orientation will give you repeatability.
Since light is additive, I turn off most of the room light except for a little lamp. I read this ambient level and later subtract it from the total. Then I turn on the flashlight and wait for it to either stabilize or hit the 30 second mark, whichever comes first.
Iāve never tried to equate it to lumens, but it does show me small changes in a particular light. Such as doing an emitter swap, spring bypass or a resistor mod, etcā¦
Itās not very good for comparing different styles of lights. Throwy beams and floody beams of the same lumens can give pretty different results due to the way the light reflects from your ceiling back to the meter.
If you have similar lights it can tell you which is brighter/dimmer etcā¦
Itās better than nothing. 