great :beer:
Stock on a 30Q@30seconds:
129 kcd (measured @7m)
1330 djozz-lumen, =~1240 real lumen
So it pretty much lives up to the specs :+1:
Hmm, fiddling with the light a bit more, and now I have switching problems, it seems that the switch does not make good contact, have to press several times to get the light on and off, and same for ramping. So possibly a mechanical thing. But it could be software too.
Me and GT lights seem an unlucky combination 
Maybe they didn’t get the press fit retaining ring pushed in all the way? Mine really works nicely, very reliable. The switch is mounted on the driver itself, the rubber boot is or should be in a fixed position relative to the switch, so if it’s acting weird it’s going to either be a loose press fit retaining ring or a loose switch on the driver. If your bezel isn’t glued that’s easy enough to find out and if you can get inside then you should be able to tell if the switch is mounted solidly on the driver.
My bezel is not glued so I will do some digging. I’m not very happy though, it is way nicer if a light works and feels reliable out of the box.
Really odd how some are glued hard, some glued lightly, and some not glued at all. VEry strange. Mine had great gobs of Blue Loctite in the bezel, had to mount it in the 5” chuck on my lathe and use a pair of 16” channel locks to break it apart, even then it did not want to let go.
Maybe the driver is turned a little bit too much. It seems the two ears allow for a little rotational play.
Looking at the driver, are the 2 black dots perfectly lined up with the exterior switch?
Maybe your driver needs to be rotated just a tiny bit?
The dots line up fine. And the switch clicks fine as well, you feel a good click and you hear it too, the response to the click (or hold) is just not there, as if the contact surfaces inside the switch are very dirty or something. But I’m not going to solve this tonight, tomorrow there is another day!
Even after being removed the driver presses back into a snug fitting position, even after a few removals. So it at least doesn’t get all loose and floppy after the glue is broken at the driver shelf. And yes, there is that bit of like Elmer’s glue holding the driver in place, ears/tabs or not, the driver isn’t shifting around not even after being removed.
G’Luck Jos….
It sounds like the switch itself has dirty contacts. Maybe a tiny squirt of contact cleaner may help.
I would say, as mentioned elsewhere here, Beam and output from the BLF GT mini and the Emisar D1S is nearly the same
(BLF GT mini on the right on the third picture)
but the mini gt is smaller and more compact, seems like a better choice 
O.K. you got me
It was an attempt :innocent:
About the only difference I see is that the GT Mini has a bit tighter corona.
DrDevil, do you have a lux meter? Have you done a side by side candela measurement?
Seperate reports have shown they should be about 130kcd to 135kcd. It’s not like anyone could see that difference, but I was just curious to see both measured with the same meter and under the same conditions.
how would u do bounce test on your ceiling anyways? i have a few apps that shows lux but how actually do it proper? Would that even give an estimate on actual lumens ?
Sorry about that, I have neither the equipment nor the expirience for meausuring Lux
I’ve found it to not be very accurate at all due to lights having different beam shapes, etc… It’s also not comparable to anyone else’s numbers as you have differences in table heights, ceiling textures, paint colors, etc… I never used a phone app, only a $30 Dr Meter LX1330B.
Basically you find a table or something similar and mark you a little spot to always tail stand your light. Then I mark a spot about 6 inches to one side to put the meter. Using the same light and meter orientation will give you repeatability.
Since light is additive, I turn off most of the room light except for a little lamp. I read this ambient level and later subtract it from the total. Then I turn on the flashlight and wait for it to either stabilize or hit the 30 second mark, whichever comes first.
I’ve never tried to equate it to lumens, but it does show me small changes in a particular light. Such as doing an emitter swap, spring bypass or a resistor mod, etc…
It’s not very good for comparing different styles of lights. Throwy beams and floody beams of the same lumens can give pretty different results due to the way the light reflects from your ceiling back to the meter.
If you have similar lights it can tell you which is brighter/dimmer etc…
It’s better than nothing. 
Of all the different ways to measure lights, the candela or throw distance is the easiest. If you ever wanted to try it, you just need a $15-$30 lux meter and a tape measure. Here is a video showing the procedure.
Random semi-related question…
In the ceiling bounce test, concerning ambient light, I have to ponder…. if a lamp is on in the room and there is a very slight reading on the meter, does the 1200 lumen light hit the ceiling and add to the 2 lux already on the meter? If you’re running the test and have someone turn off the lamp, does the meter reading change?
If it’s daylight outside but the blinds are closed such that there is a low level of ambient, does that actually influence the meter’s total reading when the light is turned on? Can you add 3 lux of ambient to 135 lux produced by the flashlight and get a measurable gain? What about adding 3 lux of ambient to a flashlights 665,000?
So, at what point does a bit of low level ambient light actually matter? I mean, I know some people that do their lux tests in a blacked out basement, as if it really matters. Just wondering is all.
I’d test my GT mini compared to one of my D1S’s but of course, all are modified so it wouldn’t be an exact comparison. Wonder if I could swap reflectors in one of em and see a difference? Hmmmmm……
Yes. If my room light is showing 88 lux and I do a ceiling bounce test of a light on low which is only 2 lux, the meter goes up to 90 lux.
The point that it starts to matter is subjective. Consider the percentage of difference. Some people might think they should compensate for anything over 1% difference.
In your example of a light measuring 1200 lux and a lamp adding 2 lux, the lamp is only adding 0.16%. So I would say that 2 lux is irrelevant.
Did you actually mean 1200 lumen? Let’s say that 1200 lumen light measured 175 lux on a ceiling bounce. Now the 2 lux would be 1.1% of the reading. This is a big iffy. If you got a steady 175 lux then, sure, why not subtract the 2 extra lux. If the lux was rapidly falling while waiting for the 30 second mark, then it’s probably not a big deal.
BTW, adding 3 lux to 665,000 lux would be 0.00045%. Irrelevant, of course.
Adding 3 lux to 135 lux is 2.2. So yeah, you might want to subtract it. It depends if 2.2 is a big deal to you or not.