New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

Without TIR optic as in mule setup (just flat lens) the beam would be full circle with hard cut-off. With most TIR optic you should get gradation with center weighted intensity.

Any optics should help to throw the beam outside the flashlight rather than just absorbed in the cavity as heat. Let’s say we can get the same beam profile with mule and TIR optic (super even and floody). There must be a difference with output, because the TIR optic will direct the beam off the front more than a simple flat lens. This is especially true if the LED shelf cavity is deep and non reflective (black, matte, etc…)

Note: Frosting/diffusing any TIR optics should be done after the collimation (top surface only), except for some severe cases. Because frosting the LED cavity in the TIR optic would upset the designed geometry and lessen the chance to move the light to the front. Most TIR optics designed with uniform lambertian light distribution from the LED die.

- Clemence

I assume that he means to say that with an optic, even if heavily frosted, you do get an actual beam which is bright in the middle with the brightness slowly fading away to the side, while without optic you do not have a visible beam at all, just flood light from front to side (although right in front of the led the brightness is higher than at the side)

Edit: clemence beat me to this answer, and said it better :slight_smile:

+1 Jos, and a mule’s outside perimeter beam shape will also follow the bezel’s shape (shadowing).

- Clemence

I see what you mean. I really appreciate your yhorough explanations. They always add some extra bits of important and useful info in addition to what was asked

Yesterday received order No. 10244
Today I decided to mount the VR16SP4 with the Nichia E21A 3v Configuraton in Skilhunt H03.
He soldered everything as it should, as recommended by the seller.
I decided to check Fluke. No diode burns.
Very sad …

What do you mean? I’m confused here

To check the diodes, put the multimeter in the diodes check mode
Diodes do not light, an audible signal is heard
The driver did not connect, I decided to start to ask
What’s what and why

Your module tested at 8A for 1 minute without problem. Try to disconnect it from the driver and test again. Smaller solder pads are the anode.

- Clemence

Everything was done, as in this photo, there is no result. The diodes are dead. Do not understand why. Can the diodes partially break off during soldering and move away from the pads?

https://i.imgur.com/tpiNOQy.jpg

Yes, it’s possible if you solder them for to long with weak soldering iron. The heat will melt the entire solder on the MCPCB and possibly one or more LED shorted (if moved). Easy fix is to add flux in between the LED gaps and reflow the whole MCPCB on a hot plate. Remove all wires and test again. Don’t forget to clean it THOROUGHLY before testing.

- Clemence

Btw, from the picture….Did you test it using crocodile jaws? If yes, then the base will short

- Clemence

No crocodiles, only needles with needles

Soldering iron 60 watts, visually the diodes are not displaced, the gaps between the diodes and the star are absent.

Disconnect all the wires first. Then test each LED individually. It’s easier to only fix where the short occurs. It’s possible you heat it for too long and the solder bridged. If you can’t fix it, you can send it back to me or anyone else near your area who did the reflow of this LED before. E21A is indeed harder to solder than most LED.

- Clemence

Has already detached
I called each diode individually
None burns
Tomorrow I’ll try to warm up on the kitchen ceramic stove at 200-210 degrees Celsius

Exquisite color rendering
The picture was taken in RAW format
By pipetting the white balance is set
Thank you Clemence

!
!

VR16SP4 , 4 x Nichia E21

- Combined LED voltage: … 3v Configuration

- LED1: … sm503-D220-L2-R9080

- LED2: … sm403-D240-M1-R9080

- LED3: … sm503-D220-L2-R9080

  • LED4: … sm403-D240-M1-R9080

Nice scene choice!
I saw it before in your email attachment. Too bad, the Optisolis still not feasible for most flashlight applications.

- Clemence

I just received the 5 Tiara C1 Pros modded with 4x E21A from Virence.com and I am very happy with Clemence’s work! The packaging of my emitter/mcpcb order was phenomenal too! :+1: :beer:

I love the E21A tint especially the 2500k and 3000k version, which is perfect for bedside use. They are rosier tinted than the 3000k 9050 219B bedside EDC I’ve been using, which I already thought looks really nice. The 4000k is slightly rosier looking than my 9050 219Bs but not as rosy as the Cree 5D tints on the Emisar lights. However, it looks noticeably cooler than the Cree 5D tint. I think the 219B 9080 will be even better looking tint wise if you prefer rosier tint. I took lumen readings at 1sec (turn-on) using the TA Tube calibrated with Maukka calibration lights:
Tiara C1 Pro 4000k - 572 lumens
Tiara C1 Pro 3500k - 539 lumens
Tiara C1 Pro 3000k - 529 lumens
Tiara C1 Pro 2500k - 438 lumens
Tiara C1 Pro 2000k - 407 lumens

Lights were running with fully charged Aspire 18350 1100mah batteries. I doubt it matters what batteries I use though since the amps are pretty low. But the output is quite impressive given how small the Tiara is and how good the tint and CRI looks.

Also, since you aren’t pushing much current on very low VF quaf E21A, you will get full regulated runtime.

Hello Clemence,

Could you test your VR21P4 loaded with Optisolis with Carclo 10623 or 10624 optics? I think, if the beam is properly even, that would be good for using them in a short (and wide head) 18350 flashlight. With 1.6-2 A (400-500 mA per LED), that would make a very usable 400+ lumens (500+ for 5000K and 6500K CCT).

Do I guess right, that the 4 different rotations of the emitter with the centered TIR over them should balance the beams produced by the off-center light emitting surface?