Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

[contactcr]

steel_1024 got his off and only mentioned the driver glue but I suppose this is not definitive confirmation:

Fireflies ROT66, Born for fans of flashlight

[Via Google Translate] Keeping update Want high CRI? Nichia 219B-V1 R9080 Ultra High CRI LED Want ramp, but also want a modes sets? Tom E’s NarsilM operator interface for flexible use Send your tactical mode + flashing combination Where can I find such a flashlight? Fireflies ROT66 is produced for the fans of flashlight Fireflies is a new flashlight brand The first flashlight, and the only flashlight… Is: ROT66 This is a sample packaging carton, which may change when it is for sale. […

[JasonWW]

@Flashy Mike

One more question: can I open the switch bezel to get access to the switch board without scratching it?

The switch bezel looks to have the little notches on the inside edge. So it looks like it’s threaded. Whether or not you can unscrew it without scratching it depends on your snap ring pliers and your skill.

As far as it being glued as well, maybe someone can tell us.

[Flashy_Mike]

@JasonWW

Whether or not you can unscrew it without scratching it depends on your snap ring pliers and your skill

I’m able to tighten or loosen any protruding screwed (unglued) bezel with my sophisticated bezel tool:

[JasonWW]

@Flashy Mike

@JasonWW

Whether or not you can unscrew it without scratching it depends on your snap ring pliers and your skill

I’m able to tighten or loosen any protruding screwed (unglued) bezel with my sophisticated bezel tool:

We were refering to the side bezel around the switch.

Wait, you are the one who asked about the side switch bezel.

On the Q8:

From etex

[steel_1024]

@Flashy Mike

@Fireflies:
May I repeat my question:

How is the bezel fixed?
Is it just screwed, or glued, or pressed …
Can I open it without damaging the light?

Edit:
One more question: can I open the switch bezel to get access to the switch board without scratching it?

Switch bezel, No notches, not easy to open
Looks like interference fit

Driver’s bezel fixed by some glued.
You can disassemble the MCPCB first.
Then use the Needle-nose pliers to open.

Will leave some scratches on bezel.

[JasonWW]

@steel_1024

Switch bezel, No notches, not easy to open
Looks like interference fit

Well that is great. I guess I was seeing little shadows on the ring that looked like notches.

So what do you do if the switch goes bad? Throw the light away?

Maybe with the driver out, the switch bezel can be pushed from the inside?

[steel_1024]

@JasonWW

Well that is great. I guess I was seeing little shadows on the ring that looked like notches.

So what do you do if the switch goes bad? Throw the light away?

Maybe with the driver out, the switch bezel can be pushed from the inside?

No, can not pushed from the inside too. Very small hole.

I will try the leverage……

[JasonWW]

I’ve got a light with what may be a press fit bezel. I was thinking of sliding a dull razor blade under the edge to try and lift it. It may scratch the finish, so I haven’t tried yet.

[steel_1024]

Leverage principle, not difficult, but be careful

Will not hurt the rubber press, bezel

[JasonWW]

Thanks. :+1:

[Flashy_Mike]

@steel_1024

Leverage principle, not difficult, but be careful

Thanks a lot!
Same principle as Emisar D4.

The black ROT66 has a black switch bezel though, painted, I guess. Probably more chances to scratch that one. I’ll try to print some plastic tool for removal when necessary.
Or I simply might remove the paint from the bezel, if scratched.

[Flashy_Mike]

@steel_1024

Driver’s bezel fixed by some glued.
You can disassemble the MCPCB first.
Then use the Needle-nose pliers to open.
Will leave some scratches on bezel.

Thanks!
Just to check if I understand correctly:

1.) The lens bezel is screwed without glue?
If yes I would still like to see a statement of Fireflies if this remains true also with the production units.We have seen problems with glued bezels on later production units with other lights in the past.

2.) The driver board is retained by a screwed and glued ring?
But why do I have to disassemble the MCPCB first?

Would you mind to remove the driver boards retaining ring once more and make a picture of the board only (board can stay in place)? And what’s the inner diameter of the driver boards retaining ring? I intend to design my own board and would like to know if I can place the vias for a programming interface between spring and retaining ring.

[steel_1024]

1.) Mine is not glue on the lens bezel.

2.) Yes

The wires connecting to the MCPCB are very short.

The inner diameter of the driver boards retaining ring is：10.8mm
Here put a black plastic insulation ring
I re-solder the (+)spring so I removed it

[Flashy_Mike]

Thanks again, Steel!
10.8 mm is narrow, might fit with a small spring, but I guess I can widen the inner diameter by 1 or 2 mm. The opening of the insulation ring has to be widened anyway.
I think I can start designing this board now. But there is also our first 3d printer waiting for launch, and the kids are pushing …

[maukka]

ROT66 received. SW45K R9080 confirmed, very pretty beam confirmed. Review coming up hopefully early next week.

[d_t_a]

@maukka

ROT66 received. SW45K R9080 confirmed, very pretty beam confirmed. Review coming up hopefully early next week.

Nice!

[twisted_raven]

How is the beam profile compared to the Astrolux MF01 Maukka? Is it a nice broad hotspot where all the lumens concentrated in that hotspot with minimal spill? Or is it slightly different?

Also when you do the review can you tell us what the highest fully regulated output is and if the light gets hot at all on it?

[maukka]

I’ll take beamshots comparing it to the MF01 for sure. Highest fully regulated output would be the 7x7135 level, which should be somewhere around 500-600 lumens. However, you would have to switch to the mode groups from the ramping UI to reliably select that level. I ramped the light to ~600 lumens and I’ve been running it for over an hour and it is regulated.

[twisted_raven]

The original driver designed by Lexel had much more of the 7135s, I wonder why Fireflies decided to use less of them? My guess was either to cut costs or they thought it wasn’t necessary to have the higher regulated output levels because the host couldn’t take the heat.

Can’t wait to see beamshots!

[Lexel]

@twisted raven

The original driver designed by Lexel had much more of the 7135s, I wonder why Fireflies decided to use less of them? My guess was either to cut costs or they thought it wasn’t necessary to have the higher regulated output levels because the host couldn’t take the heat.

Can’t wait to see beamshots!

The ramping table is the same on both, on the Nichia they decided to use less AMCs total number after their tests
the XPL HI should be fully equipped