Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

Only aluminium? Will it be also available in copper?

You don’t want that chunk in copper

And it will not help a lot for the heat path either.

Great work! You’re really churning stuff out lately! I’d like to see what the maximum potential for this build is. djozz? :smiling_imp:

6x Luxeon V or 5700K 90CRI MZ will be more potent,351D is not best LED for max. output.

I wonder if this spacer will fit on the manta ray c8.2? Or in the future do you plan on making one if doesn’t?

PS. Btw, I forgot to add great looking spacer.

I got manta ray and it doesn't fit, it's too wide, don't know about height.

The driver have to be 22mm, isn’t it?
Is only the driver hole too wide or what is too wide?
Is the spacer too wide for the head?

Please explain the switch part ;). I don’t want to needlessy spend money on this if you are already developing a more suitable solution compared to what I have in mind.

I just want a FET-clicky switch with a coin cell battery or a capacitor.

I do not care about the weight. My point is that copper can be soldered. Then the led board does not move and it’s perfectly centered. And that’s always very important for me when I make multi-led.

Below is an example of what I mean:

I would think the switch could be a simple momentary FET Driver with only one mode to place in every Flashlight instead of the clicky-board.

Perhaps it has LEDs for iluminated tailcap and a bleeder resistor on the main Driver is needed. And this switch can be used as upgrade in each clicky Flashlight.

Perhaps short klick for mode Change, as reverse clickies behaves and Long click for power off.

Thats what I would think.

Spacer is too wide.

My switch is FET, no clicky and no coin battery, compatible with Convoy S and M lights, and EE X6(other light if there is enough interest).

1.mosX board are aluminum with ceramic insulation, so you can't solder them.

2.Soldering copper MCPCB on such big spacer would be very difficult and there would be great risk of frying/damaging LEDs from excessive heat.

3.It's not good if pcb doesn't move in this case, all parts have their tolerances, so it's better if pcb can move a little bit, optics have 3-4 legs, so centering is always perfect. For example ANNA optics fits very tightly into C8, if you solder hypothetical copper pcb on copper spacer and make just 0.5mm error, optics wouldn't fit into head.

I would buy it anyway. However, thanks for explaining.

So with a cap? That’s great!
I would like to use it in a convoy C8 tailcap (together with the Ciriba-ru C8TT head).

You can ask Kiriba-ru for custom copper spacers.

Can you check if the height is right? If so, I’m willing to mod the spacer to fit if it’s only the width. If it’s both width and height then it’s better for me to make my own spacer again.

I think measuring manta rays reflector is more easy. If it has regular C8 size reflector, then required spacer height is same to convoy.

You’re right, that would be easier, lol. I believe they both use the same sized reflector. I also noticed on led4power.com that a future listing for 30amp switch is up already.

Hi Neven,

Can you already tell us something about this new product?

https://led4power.com/product/subzero-solid-state-smart-switch/

Thanks!