Anyone have an idea or guess how the Vf of the 351D 4000K 90CRI emitter compares to the Vf of the 219CT 5000K 90CRI emitter? I put 2 of the Samsung and 2 of the Nichias (from a D4) in a Q8 and visa versa. My impression is that output decreased a little in the D4, but tint, CRI, and throw improved. I don't want to push the Q8 too hard due to the 3 additional cells. I did turbo a bit and detected on no blue tint warning of overheating. I'm not a good judge of output, tint, and CRI by eye though. I'm assuming the CRI didn't actually increase, but it appeared like it did to my eye.
I really like the combo tint and CRI wise, but I don't want to fry one set of emitters due to significantly lower Vf. I really need to setup a heat sink with light tube and test each emitter, but I'm hoping someone in the know already knows.
EDIT: Clarified wording.
EDIT2: Caught typo (strike out above). Sorry for all the edit's folks.
I put 4 of the new batch in my D4…and I don’t like them
I see a green hue in the color. It’s a shame because the beam is way smoother than with 219C, there’s no artifact.
What’s strange is, I put another one in my Sofirn SP32A and the color is as nice as the old batch…
Could it be the AR glass ? Or the TIR ?
I keep meaning to order one of those kits but never seem to have the money when I am thinking about it and don’t think about it when I have some money lol
Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.
That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.
I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.
Yeah I fear that I’ve became a tint snob :face_with_monocle:
The green hue does disappear with higher modes though,but since I love to use the <350mA modes more often, I have to fix that
At times I've thought the lower CRI emitters “exploit a sort of cheat” with the lumen output, because our eyes, brains and minds are more or less sensitive depending on light frequency:
Thus, output from lower CRI emitters may seem to dazzle or blind more because they're using more power output in the light frequencies we're more sensitive to. But their light is a cheat that does not abide well to the spectral power distribution profiles of the sun/blackbody radiator, something which can be felt.
I haven’t tried the new batch yet. But I bought a noctigon M43 mcpcb with the 4000k LH351D 90cri from kiriba-ru and thought it looked acceptable until I compared it with my 5D tinted flashlights, which is when I realize how yellow the tint is on the LH351D. Even white objects become yellowish with the LH351D, whereas my 5D tint and my 219B 4000k 9050 flashlights render white as white. The yellow is so bad that I find my 5D 70cri Cree XHP HI and XPG2 lights render colors better and more natural than the 90cri LH351D. I guess a LEE filter can fix it but that takes away 17% or more lumens and the LH351D is already not efficient compared to the XP-L HI. The LH351D M43 measured 4310 lumens whereas the XP-L HI 4000k 5D measured 5,172 lumens at turn on. Surprisingly the XP-G2 5D version measures 6000 lumens. These are after Maukka ANSI calibration. The LH351D is probably still brighter than 219c version though, which I don’t have for comparison.
The Noctigon M43 is an unregulated flashlight. This means those LH351D emitters won't draw as much current as 219Cs in it, not even close! On the other hand, while the LH351Ds may output a comparable deal of light, they're going to do it at much lower current draw and heat.
Your are mistaking it with the other, smaller Noctigon lights. The M43 is the big one with boost driver. It regulates perfectly in all modes. In the turbo mode each of the 12 LEDs is driven with 2A when the light is cool.
