What filter would you recommend for the job?
I keep meaning to order one of those kits but never seem to have the money when I am thinking about it and don’t think about it when I have some money lol
Depending on the severity of the green tint, which isn’t horrible with the LH351D, I’d say a Lee Zircon 804 is probably a good bet. If you want to make sure it lands on the rosy side, pick the 803 which usually fixes the XP-G3+d-c-fix combo very well. 802 is probably overkill.
Thanks! I am thinking I will buy a sheet of 803, 804 and 805. The output loss sucks but at least it could make otherwise unusable lights look good.
Would you say these are the best sheets to get if I can only get 2 or 3?
That’s what I got. The 805 is very subtle though. I wouldn’t probably even fix something that only requires so little shifting. I’d probably go for the 802 instead for the extreme cases of green.
Great, thanks for the tip.
I could probably say the output of my now LH351D modified C8F is subtly/very subtly greenish in the low modes, something which vanishes as you up the driving current. You must be very picky.
Cheers ^:)
Yeah I fear that I’ve became a tint snob :face_with_monocle:
The green hue does disappear with higher modes though,but since I love to use the <350mA modes more often, I have to fix that
At times I've thought the lower CRI emitters “exploit a sort of cheat” with the lumen output, because our eyes, brains and minds are more or less sensitive depending on light frequency:
Light Measurement @ TutorVista.com
Thus, output from lower CRI emitters may seem to dazzle or blind more because they're using more power output in the light frequencies we're more sensitive to. But their light is a cheat that does not abide well to the spectral power distribution profiles of the sun/blackbody radiator, something which can be felt. 
Cheers ^:)
Yes, I agree, the low CRI emitters are much more harsh to the eyes.
I haven’t tried the new batch yet. But I bought a noctigon M43 mcpcb with the 4000k LH351D 90cri from kiriba-ru and thought it looked acceptable until I compared it with my 5D tinted flashlights, which is when I realize how yellow the tint is on the LH351D. Even white objects become yellowish with the LH351D, whereas my 5D tint and my 219B 4000k 9050 flashlights render white as white. The yellow is so bad that I find my 5D 70cri Cree XHP HI and XPG2 lights render colors better and more natural than the 90cri LH351D. I guess a LEE filter can fix it but that takes away 17% or more lumens and the LH351D is already not efficient compared to the XP-L HI. The LH351D M43 measured 4310 lumens whereas the XP-L HI 4000k 5D measured 5,172 lumens at turn on. Surprisingly the XP-G2 5D version measures 6000 lumens. These are after Maukka ANSI calibration. The LH351D is probably still brighter than 219c version though, which I don’t have for comparison.
My LEDs are here. Thanks AEDe!
Is there any chance we can get the Groupbuy reopen, i really love this led
The M43 with 219B-V1 R9050 already does 4400lm. The 219C version should do maybe 20% more. Your Samsung LEDs should be more similar to the 219C.
Mine arrived. Thanks AEDe!
The Noctigon M43 is an unregulated flashlight. This means those LH351D emitters won't draw as much current as 219Cs in it, not even close! On the other hand, while the LH351Ds may output a comparable deal of light, they're going to do it at much lower current draw and heat.
Cheers ^:)
Your are mistaking it with the other, smaller Noctigon lights. The M43 is the big one with boost driver. It regulates perfectly in all modes. In the turbo mode each of the 12 LEDs is driven with 2A when the light is cool.
The_Driver, by the time I shot my above reply I was in a deeply tipsy state, and guess that is the reason somehow I understood you were sort of complaining about low output with LH351Ds in an M43. Nothing more, nothing else. 
Cheers :-)
I didn’t know there was a version of the M43 with the 219B. But do remember that most manufacturers do not measure their lights in an ANSI calibrated lumen sphere. I measure my lights in the TA lumen sphere with adjusted with Maukka’s ANSI calibration lights. The majority of lights produce much less lumens than the manufacturer’s ratings.
Actually they do. At least 95% of them, most of them state it. Also, a sphere is not calibrated according to ANSI. The ANSI FL1 standard describes how a flashlight is to be measured using a calibrated sphere.
The only upper range manufacturer where I have heard of problems is Armytek.
The 219B-V1 variant of the light was only available for the first year or so and was dimmer than all the others while costing more. It also gets hotter more quickly. But back then it was the brightest high-cri flashlight available.
Well yes, the Lumen value should be a bit higher. That would be extremely inefficient for 12 4mm^2 LEDs at 2A each.