GB 351D closed.

I remember maukka test of some Zebra that showed way lower performance than stated by the manufacturer.

Same here. Zebralights and Armyteks are usually lower than manufacturer’s ratings if tested using ANSI calibrated standards. Fenix, Olight, Acebeam, and Thrunite numbers are usually closer to ANSI lumens.

Those are Djozz lumens. I’m not sure how he calibrated his sphere. Even the famous TA emitter tests show lumens much higher than ANSI levels because it was based off of his previous calibration, which is over 30% too high and most DIY lumen spheres are similarly high. Now all of TA’s lumen spheres sold are based on Maukka’s $10k+ certified lumen sphere calibration.

You could easily check this by comparing a value under 1.5A with those in the datasheet.

Djozz actually uses a calibrated lux meter which accuratelY measures different tints. He generally seems to go to the highest effort to ensure the best possible accuracy.

Maukkas lights with measurement certificate are nice, but they don’t make a cheap Luxmeter more accurate. It will still have-Problems with some tints.

Bah! vwpieces had all of this light measuring stuff mastered long ago. Check out his fine & handy light meter:

Source: **Featured Review** Probe Shiny Handy Light Zoomie Super Bright LED

^:)

But lux is not lumens. If your setup is not accurately calibrated, it doesn’t matter how accurate the lux meter is because you will not be able to accurately convert lux into lumens.

How’s the tint of the 5000K (RT) compared to the 4000K (T*) of the 90 CRI version?

Yes, but accurate calibration in the real world doesn’t just involve one value at one tint if you can’t be sure that the Luxmeter has the same accuracy at all tints (which all cheap meters don’t).

But why are we argueing here? The 4400lm of the M43 are a believable value for a light with 12 Nichia 219B-V1 LEDs driven together at around 80W. That’s actually quite inefficient.

The technology of the 219B has already been surpassed/improved, agree. However, quite inefficient versus what kind of emitters? If low CRI ones the comparison is completely unfair since our sensitivity to the visible spectral gamut frequencies is uneven:

Source: Light Measurement @ TutorVista.com

Cheers ^:)

It was meant as a general statement regarding led flashlights, but in this case also regarding other high-cri lights. The 219B-V1 is ineeficient at 2A.

Not sure why you think we’re arguing. Just pointing things. The Maukka calibration light set includes a 5000k and 6500k light and the difference I measured with the lux meter TA included with his lumen sphere is only 0.2% even if we go down to 4000k, I doubt the CCT difference will cause the lux meter in the TA lumen sphere to deviate more than 1%. To me, it just seems unlikely but not impossible that using 219B emitters in the M43 will result in more lumens than with the LH351D 4000k 90CRI, which I read is similar in performance to the 219C or better.

There is really no reason to argue. The 219B is a good looking LED but not something we should be using much going forward when we have better LED’s available.

About “my lumen”, I try my best to keep it consistent but it is not correct and I never claimed it to be correct. In fact, as I have mentioned here and there, comparisons with reliable sources (of which maukka’s calibration is one) suggest that it is somewhere between 7% and 11% high, probably depending on spectrum as well.

I’m not happy with that but it is not way off and I stick to my calibration to keep my measurements comparable over time.

But sadly, there’s no replacement for the 219B 9080 or 9050 in terms of light quality. The LH351D is no comparison. Hoping there will be 9080 219C with less green in the future.

The high CRI Luminus SST-20 series is very promising, the performance is in between 219B and 219C and at least the 3000K version (the only type currently available) has close to perfect tint and CRI. The only downside is that the tint does not go over 4000K.

The 9080 219B has been discontinued so that is no longer an option sadly (I have been trying to track down an option to get some for a light that is in the works and they are not to be found) , thus the best option that I can think of is now the 219C “E bin” 9050. Which is what I am looking into now.

It should be the 219B tint with the 219C performance. Just in the 9050 flavor instead of 9080 (although when tested I think it got quite a bit over spec in this particular bin)

I saw that test and it does look interesting but the limit to 4000k and warmer is a real bummer. 4500k is about the warmest the general public seems to like.

I would consider a 4000k version though. 3000k is too warm for me.

Yea I saw your review and got excited and bought a triple SST-20 and a P60 pill from Kaidomain. The triple mcpcb fits carclo optics so I might swap it in my Wuben TO40R to test it out. We need some 4000k and 4500k 90cri with good tint though for mass adoption in production lights.

The LH351D in this GB is T7 tint bin and the previous was a T6 tint bin. I’m thinking if there’s another GB, maybe we can try the T3 bin. That should eliminate any green or yellow.

How many of the 9080 219B do you need? What tint? I have a bunch on order from Clemence’s GB but haven’t received them yet. I might be able to send a few to you.

Where can I get the 219C “E bin”?

Oh, somewhere between 2000 - 3000 :wink: lol

It is for a project light that is in the works.

Thanks for the offer though, I don’t use the 9080 in my personal lights much for the simple reason that every other LED I own looks horrible after using the 9080’s lol.

Clemence had some E bin LED’s but they sold out, they appear to be what we have been wanting with 219B and 219C output except they lack the 9080 CRI. Although the only LED’s nichina offers with that CRI seem to be the E21A’s and similar LED’s that are hard to use in flashlights for various reasons. The 219C is much simpler to use which is why I am trying to use them.