Emisar D4S review

You really need to get a MT09R man. I got one modded by TA in blue; looks fantastic and does 21,000 lumens. I love the blue finish on it.

The SC26 group buy is still going on I think. Cool little light, same blue finish, but it badly needed a different driver and UI. I’ve been searching for a 28mm boost driver with Narsil and side switch LED support, but haven’t found any yet.

I don’t know how small pogo pin arrays go

These are down to 1.27mm pin pitch
https://www.mill-max.com/new_products/detail/12

That would be ~4mm wide in 3x2

And there should be smaller pogos for BGAs
But how to get and to what costs I don’t know.

Can u buy it from TA directly or do you have to buy it from banggood first and then send it to TA for modding?

You can buy it from BG and have it shipped to TA for modding. But the new V2 already comes with the TA designed driver and also have factory spring bypasses. The only thing you might want TA to mod is the emitters. We don’t know what bin emitters the factory comes with but TA can help you put in top bin emitters of a color temperature of your choice.

Anyone know how you ramp the Aux LEDs? I clicked 7 times to get it to low Aux, but when I click again it just goes into ramping of regular leds. Curious to see how bright those blue aux leds could get.

The aux LEDs are only active when the light is off, or locked, and each of these two “off” modes can be configured to operate in four ways:

Off
Low (~0.03 mA)
High (~0.90 mA)
Beacon (high for 0.5s, then off for ~3.5s, then repeat) (avg ~0.11 mA)

Yeah, the aux LEDs don’t ramp. The ‘high’ mode on them is as bright as they get, but you can change that by swapping out the resistor on the aux LED board.

Got my Green Emisar from Mtn Electronics today, so I cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID “A” Special and popped a Black and Gold Liitokala charged to 4.21v set the meter on the T/A maukka calibrated tube to MAX hold….and got 4,840lm. at turn on…

Spaced the battery tube out with (2) 2mm x27mmx30.5mm copper sealing rings, so I didn’t crush the springs, when using a full charged 4.21v 21700 30T and registered 6,070lm. at turn on…

Bad to the Bone stock Rocket! :+1: And yes it still works fine… :person_facepalming:

Thanks. I still can’t seem to get it into “high” mode. I do the 7 clicks to get it to aux LED, but no matter what I do after that, it still seems to be on low.

Holy smoke. Almost 5000 lumen . Thanks for the test kiwi.

The low is very low…hardly noticeable before the “high” mode. It can be hard to see in a lit room…

The “high” mode is far from “high” as lumens go…its almost moonlightish

Goto OFF, try seven clicks and turn off the lights and see if it is barely glowing…

Thanks so much! You’re totally right. I couldn’t even tell when it was on low mode because there is still a good deal of light in the room. It is very faint.

Great! Glad it works!

Its a wonderful fistful of stupid bright light…and the UI is awesome!

Thanks TK!

Received my D4s from MTN today, the size is slightly bigger than I expect!
From L to R: Fireflies ROT66, D4s, DQG Tiny 26650 3th & Haikelite SC26 (26350 tube).

Holy cow this definitely is brighter than the D4! 6,000 lumens with 21700 makes it even more insane!

Btw, do you really mean you cleaned the contacts and springs with NO-OX-ID? I thought it was only used as a thread grease but with electrical conductance for reduced resistance through the threads. I have the NO-OX-ID too but from my testing, it didn’t increase any lumens unfortunately.

No-Ox-ID

“NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides, and other corrosion deposits and is also used as a battery terminal grease”

Not sure where you got the idea it was a thread lubricant, it’s formulated to clean electrical contacts and provide a non-oxidizing layer of protection to maintain optimum battery to contact performance.

Perhaps the lumens reading from that box is questionable, who knows… far be it for me to say… but I DO see that it’s not mating to the lights properly in Kawi’s pics of the TN42.

Thanks for the clarification. I found the no-ox-id recommended by someone in a thread lubricant thread and I bought it for that purpose. I never realize it wasn’t intended for that. However, it does work well as a thread lubricant and being meant for electrical contact means I don’t have to worry about grease getting on my batteries and springs. I’ve been having problems with my TC20 turbo mode because thread grease gets on the battery contacts and I have to clean with alcohol to fix.

charles lin, thanks for the comparison pic. The D4S makes the ROT66 look smaller than I imagine. Can’t wait to receive both.

KawiBoy1428 thanks for the info! Where did you get the copper rings? Also, are there cheap 21700 -> 26650 spacer/sleeves available anywhere? A quick google search only turned up brackets but not sleeves. Thanks!

Jordan, Kawi makes the copper spacers from copper washers usually. It’s not so much a 26650 to 21700 spacer as it is an extension for the D4S tube to make the gap longer, to fit the longer cell. Emisar makes the lights very compact, not much room for us to mod them, so to use the longer cell takes some creativity… a copper washer fitted between the head and tube and another between the tube and tail cap gains this bit of length that’s required. Kawi has a lot of experience finding the loop holes. :wink: