You can not set it precisely by clicking a button (like you can on Andúril firmware), but after the calibration it blinks out the new setting. And mine blinked 65 
Seem like your set up fine for now then. Hope you enjoy your D4
Yes, it’s a really nice flashlight. Anodizing is flawless, machining is perfect and the amount of light coming from it is just mindblowing. Can’t wait for winter, it will be a great hand warmer too
Can NarsilM be loaded in the D4?
Normal and essentially inconsequential dgq3, you’re going to find virtually all the optics have such markations from the molding process.
Don’t worry too much about the temperature readout, set it for what you can handle and the light will be fine. The electronics can take FAR more than you can. The difference between the readout and your means of measuring the external case are both going to have some variance, this can add up to what seems like a lot, but it’s still all about not burning your hand, so just take care of you and all will be well. 
I dont know this has been told… sony vtc5a is great in the d4… i mean vtc5a beat vtc5 by big margin…
Emisar d4 xpl hi 6500k
Sony vtc5a 4000 lumen
Sony vtc5 3600 lumen
That is why I smartly measured the difference at ambient temperature, when the light was cold
And it’s kinda like a waiter getting used to handling hot plates, I can’t stop playing with it and can already feel my hands hardening 
Maybe in a few months I could add 10 degrees, but the light can not. Well…whatever, it’s not a real issue anyway
The “scratches” or striations you marked look to me like the result of turbulence and minor temperature variations during the molding process. I’d guess they are inescapable, and baked in to the original design & specification.
Yeah, sorry, the D4 doesn’t have a way to calibrate the sensor. It only has a way to set the maximum temperature.
The D4S fixes this, and I made the D4S code also work on D4/D1/D1S, but I don’t know if Hank will update older models with the new V3 firmware. It would probably need more testing and maybe some tweaks before it can be considered stable on the older models. In particular, thermal regulation settings require hands-on testing with fully-assembled lights, which is time-consuming.
But I run Anduril on literally all of my Emisar lights, and it seems to work pretty well. I don’t use turbo long enough for thermal regulation to be needed though.
Yes. Just don’t rely on its thermal features, because they’re designed for hosts with a much lower power-to-mass ratio. NarsilM should work fine on the D4 as long as you regulate heat manually.
The Q8 config should work without any changes. I think its voltage readout might be off by 0.1V though, due to a difference in diodes used on the two models. I see in my configs that the Q8 has a fudge factor of 0.35V, while the D4 uses 0.25V.
Can anyone tell me what the mid way flash signifies in the upward ramp?
(highest fully-regulated level)
66: 159.46 lm (FET turns on here)
should see it on the way down too
Thanks. About how long will it run at that level?
Runtimes:
Runtimes will be approximate because the ramp is too smooth to be able to stop reliably at any particular level.
With a 3000mAh cell:
Standby: 0.02mA / 17 years
Lowest mode: 1.7 lm / 9.6mA / 13 days
Medium mode (lvl 65): ~150 lm / 350mA / 8.5 hours
Highest mode: 2000 to 4000 lm / TBD / maybe 15 minutes
The output on the low levels (from moon to ~150 lm) should be fairly stable as the battery drains. The lowest mode might sag over time though, due to the brand of 7135 chip used. I’ve informed Hank about this, and I hope future batches will use one with better moon-mode performance.
The output on turbo will drop quite a bit over time due to heat, voltage sag, and thermal regulation.
On the medium and high modes, from ~150 lm to maximum, output will drop over time proportionate to how bright it is. For levels like 200 lm, the graph should still be pretty flat, but for 2000 lm it will sag quite a bit. Performance in these modes is a hybrid between current-controlled and direct-drive, so the typical direct-drive sag becomes more prominent as the light goes into higher and higher levels.
Thanks again. I’m trying to figure out where to set it for sustained use like taking walks etc. Helpful info.
Thanks for the feedback. I just got a Second D4 and I may change the firmware to NarsilM to compare it to Anduril.
Go for it, it sounds like fun.
But I may be biased; I think everyone should get a soldering iron and firmware flashing tools, and dive into modding. Nothing will ever be exactly how you want it unless you create it yourself.
For someone just starting out though, the BLF Q8 or Emisar D4S are probably the easiest. In both cases, the processor is accessible without unsoldering anything. The Q8’s driver comes out with just a couple of loosened screws, or the D4S has flashing pads where they can be reached without removing the driver at all.
Just be careful to get the fuse values right in avrdude, because bad fuses can kind of “brick” the processor. It’s still recoverable with a high-voltage programmer, but those have a much higher barrier to entry. Known working values are in the bin/flash-85.sh script.
FWIW, TK is pretty demanding on her code. I have randomly flashed Anduril to quite a varity of lights with no adjustments to the firmware and have yet to see any discrepency. YMMV
After reviewing NarsilM I realized everything I am interested in can be done with Anduril. I wish my D4 had flashing pads, but even that light is pretty straight forward to do, now that I have flashed one D4 already.