Emisar D4S review

Shockli is the best 26650 I can find…

I have no D4S, but from the reading I tend to B.

Is there a way to calculate lumen for the stepped ramp?
With the known max output, no. of steps, steps for top and bottom ceiling?
I think of a spreadsheet, you type the values in and get the lumens for each step.

Ish.

It’s hard to do because of how different LEDs have different lumen levels, and in the FET modes, it also depends a lot on battery type and voltage.

Aside from that though, basically you’d have to look up the PWM values from the firmware’s ramp table, calculate the power level, then look up that power level on an emitter test graph.

Or try the bin/level_calc.py tool, which produces a relatively naive estimate of how many lumens it expects. These numbers may not match actual measurements though, because it doesn’t know the emitter’s response curve and may have been given intentionally wrong values in order to force the graph into a particular shape. Like, for the D4S, I told the calculator the lowest level was 11.2 lm and the highest was 4000 lm, and that it should use a ninth-root curve shape, because this got the values to line up how I wanted. But in reality it’s more like 0.3 lm to 5000 lm.

Ish would be enough.

I meant per light. Not in general for all FSM lights

Fw3a and D4S
As battery a 30Q.
Data for discharge from HKJ.

Hm, it sounds already complicated.

how about the black Basen with gold writing…it has 60a pulse

I have an authentic basen 5000mah with 50/60a pulse. there’s also the basen 4500mah with 40/60a pulse. have you checked those? I don’t have your set up to check the specs in the light itself. I almost bought the 4500 but it doesn’t have Basen written 4 times on the top of the battery like my other one does

Where can you purchase basen 26650?

Stepped ramp modes for xpl hi 5000k. 4, 34, 110, 246, 481, 1016, 1906 lumen… number will depends on the battery… atleast we get an idea…

Awesome…thanks for that…I have the same emitters.

What happens if change the stepped ramps to like just 2 steps? Does it just split the output in half?

I dont know how to do that… i have 7 modes in stepped, plus turbo…

At first I blinded myself a few times with this feature as well. And I couldn’t figure out what I was doing, or doing wrong anyway.

But after figuring it out, I’m happy with the way it functions. I do have to click and hold longer than expected, but there’s sufficient delaying before ramping up off moon to land in that I’m no longer bothered by it.

I’m still not ever sure what I’m going to get for a double click from off - last used mode, some random mode, or turbo. I’m aiming for turbo, but I’m not sure I always get it. And speaking of double click, the thermal reduction is so smooth you don’t notice it, so if you double click to turbo, and the light backs off a smidgen due to throttling, and you double click again, basically nothing happens cause you go back to turbo.

Since I just ordered my green D4S from Richard yesterday and I don’t actually have one yet, I built another one. This time in solid copper.

I made a Te/Cu head surrounding the Noctigon 33mm Quad MCPCB with Angie optic and mated it to the full copper body of an 18650 Sinner light. Not having my springs yet from Blue, I’m making do with the “measely” 5685 lumens out the front provided by an Sony VTC5A 18650. :wink: (output courtesy of 4 Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI emitters)

Hank is really on a roll, for sure!

From L to R: Fireflies ROT66, D4s, DQG Tiny 26650 3th & Haikelite SC26 (26350 tube).

Since the floor, ceiling, and number of steps can be whatever you want, it spaces the middle modes evenly on a visually-linear scale. Or as close as it can get, at least, from the 150 available levels.

With just 2 steps, you’ll get just the floor and the ceiling. Nothing between. Modes are low, high, and maybe turbo.

I say “maybe turbo” because it depends on where the ceiling is configured. If the ceiling is set to 150 (one click), there is no separate turbo.

With 3 steps, it’ll be floor, ceiling, and halfway between on the ramp. So it’d do low, med, high, and maybe turbo.

Or to set it up for steps of 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, and 150… Do 25 clicks for floor, 26 clicks for ceiling, and 5 steps. Five regular output levels plus turbo.

If you tell it to use just 1 step, it’ll get a little confused and act like you configured it for 2 steps instead. But you can still make it a one-mode light by setting the floor and ceiling to the same number, I think. Unless it divides by zero. That’s a possibility. Probably should have tested that. :slight_smile:

For use as a 1-mode light, I’d recommend just using momentary/tactical mode.

I meant in post 493, the middle light. In reference to the basen, someone gave it to me but the ones I’ve been seeing don’t seem legit. Liion wholesalers has the 4500mah basen in stock

Thanks for sharing these figures. I am probably going to draw fire from saying this. TBH, I am a bit underwhelmed and disappointed that the lumen outputs will drop below 1000 lumens in less than 2 minute? Is this behavior due to timed stepdown? Since this flashlight has more mass compared to the D4, which should help it to dissipate heat better, I was hoping it should be able to output half the max lumens for sustained period.

Are the figures similar for the other LEDs: XP-G2 S4 and XP-L HI ?

There is no timed step-down; it regulates entirely based on temperature.

Nichia 219c generates more heat than the other emitter types, and has the lowest sustainable output. Also, I don’t know maukka’s test parameters, like if it involved any cooling to simulate the effect of holding the light in one’s hand, or how its thermal settings were configured. However, maukka has probably the most accurate lumen measurements on BLF, so you can count on the numbers being good.

Here’s what I got with XP-L HI, with the thermal ceiling set to a comfortable and calibrated 45 C, with light air cooling from a fan:

If you want it to stay brighter, you can raise the temperature limit or add external cooling. Like, put it in cold water or hold ice against the heat fins, and it’ll stay at the highest brightness the battery can manage.

My test was done with default settings. Temp sensor seems to be correct within 2°C. No active cooling nor heatsinking of any kind.