TK's Emisar D4 review

what about this flashlight and panasonic flat top the green ones? are this 18650 ok for this flashlight?
thanks a lot

@vresto, in this light, you want flat top 18650s that can handle a lot of power.

That means green Panasonics, like the NCR18650B, are not suitable for the light, since they are low drain.

You want something like a Samsung 25R, LG HE4, Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Sony VTC5/VTC5A/VTC6 to get good performance out of the light.

but this green ones are unprotected…its matter? is it a big difference between them in lumens??

@vresto, yes it does matter. Unprotected is always better, but what matters the most is the power the 18650 can output.

A Panasonic NCR18650B is rated 4.875A of continuous discharge current, while a Sony VTC6 can sustain 20A of continuous discharge current.

That means that the NCR18650B is rated at a max of about 15W, while the VTC6 can sustain 70W of power.

That means that not only will the Emisar D4 lose a lot of lumens if ran on an NCR18650B, it will also make the 18650 degrade much faster.

oh okok.thanks a lott:)))))))))))))ň

BLF member ‘moderator007’ posted about Arrow.com offering free overnight shipping with no minimum order in the US, and a low price for Samsung LH351D 5000K 90CRI emitters.

I saw that Arrow.com also carries Carclo’s 24mm quad optics that the D4 uses. Its stock optic is the 10622 narrow spot.

10623 medium spot frosted

10624 wide spot frosted

This is an inexpensive (and fast!) option for Emisar owners in the US who’d like to try a floodier D4. I’m getting one of each. :partying_face:

Wow, I just put TK’s preconfigured Anduril on a D4. Awesome!
Love being able to configure the ceiling and still have turbo if needed. Will really help with battery life.
Of course all of the special modes are super-cool, will be going to bed with the Sunset or Candle mode every night!
Fully configurable beacon is the best beacon yet.
Thanks TK for all of your hard work!!

what he said

iam sorry…i was not following this…its new driver for emisar d4?…

Same driver flashed with different firmware.
Check the links in TK’s sig for more info.

Has anyone tried running Emisar D4 with flat top cells?

Thing is… I have both flat and button top Samsung 30Q, all around the same age, but I have felt that with the flat top cell the light output is lower.

Today I have it confimed by a luxmeter in my phone. Ceiling bounce, same setup, flat top cell shows around 360 lux, button top cell 450-ish. Which is quite a significant difference.

Can anyone confirm my findings? Could it be due to lower pressure on the springs because flat top cell si shorter?

Is this what I need to flash driver on Emisar D4?

(Guide: how to flash ATtiny13a based drivers (NANJG, QLITE, etc.) with custom firmware)
Thanks

I purchased all those items except the extension cable. you only need 6 wires IIRC, but not I bought a wide cable like suggested. I also bought this item and was glad I did. It allowed me to verify my test setup while I was waiting for the clip. The clip I purchased was the cheaper alternative. The Arduino board is definitely not required, but for a few $ more it provide me chance to practice before connecting with the real part on my board. I used the Arduino board just to connect to the ATTiny85 and verify the rest of my setup was good, I also flashed it with Anduril, just for practice.

dgq3, you’re probably right… spring compression can make a lot of difference in output, I see it all the time on the light box. The flat top 30Q should have better performance as it doesn’t have the added steel button top which has high resistance comparatively. You can see the internal resistance value of the cell on a charger like the Opus or MiBoxer C4-12. Edit: The manufacturer’s make these cells for battery packs, like in drills or such, and don’t put button tops or protection circuits on the cells. Aftermarket sellers add the button top or protection circuit, with a wide variety of issues associated therein. :wink: Sometimes these added button top plates are welded on nicely, sometimes not. Sometimes not at all, only being held in place by the insulation disc and the wrapper.

I just put a pair of Samsung 30T 21700 cells on my MiBoxer C4-12 and saw internal resistance values of 13 and 14. After testing with one and putting it back on the charger, it showed 9!

A question for D4 owners who own more or have tried more than 1 D4:

Ignoring heat, CRI, and throw, which LED between XP-L HI and 219C has the best tint, and why?

I have Nichia and XP-L 3A 5000k and the best tint with no doubt is Nichia, the tint is a relatively white but when illuminating shows very natural colors. The XPL-HI 3A is not a bad tint at all, but compared to the Nichia it loses.

The problem with the D4 Nichia (not so much in the D4S) is the heat, which makes that the stepdown constantly lower the power.

Optisolis-D4 mod.
EDC with 800lm of stabilised 99cri light)

probably will let the pics speak for themselves…

wall is about 18 meters away from flashlight,
camera set to “daylight” white balance

control shot:

D4 XPL-Hi “5D” 4000K

D4 219C 90CRI default 10622 optic

D4 219C 90CRI floody 10623 optic

Thank you Alex64, and d_t_a for your input and photos!

AEDe, the optisolis mod with buck boost driver looks amazing. I wish I had the skill to do that! Thank you for sharing.

It hard to get from gtranslation, but author choose more simple way. Boost driver with s2p2 led config. You can see there that mcpcb has bypass and cut to change config.