*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

I will be out of town for a few days without internet, until i return on Tuesday August, 28th. I will catch up then!

  • Den

cat bite seriously infercted if antibiotic dont help next days they have to cut my pointing finger open at the joint

ouch* hope it heals up soon for you.

I still have itchy spots which crust over then thicken and split open on my arm from a cat bite 5 years ago. Sounds worse than it is, but the point is don’t underestimate animal bites, some of the bacteria they can carry are nasty.

Ditto

What sort of people does Barry have working for him if they need to be spoon fed everything? Are they simply a build to print contract manufacturer that makes flashlights?

got so far today
power bank added tomorrow

alsom thought if the driver comes from production with 16 AMCs and they got solder bridge to configure more or less than 4

Lexel did in 2 hours what I couldn’t do in 2 months. Thanks so much for the help!!

Well, he has already been making a lot of driver designs, so he has plenty of starters to make this from. Changing a few things here and there doesn’t take very long. But, the point remains, and I agree - he’s awesome! Thanks from me too, Lexel!

Wow awesome work on this!
I like the idea of having solderable bridges for the 7135s, ( as in comes from the factory with 4-7135s in stock output level, but modders could easily bridge a trace to increast the output to 6 or 8 AMCs or less)

ill be in for one, since I seem to be BLF-afflicted

Interested in 1

Added Dodge62 at number 954 on the interest list.

added justanotherguy at number 955 on the interest list.

added Farmboy24 at number 956 on the interest list.

Why not a MOSFET based linear driver with higher efficiency in the low modes like the LD4 and texas commander drivers?

Yes, that should be done. Keep is simpler.

It is much more important to have rosy tint, and CRI over 90, and R9 over 90, on either 3000-4000-4500-5000-5700k. It really does not make that much of a difference in real life. 3000-4000k with that high of a CRI is basically the same.

They’re building this thing to a DBSAR / BLF spec, including some very detailed and specific requirements. The simplest way to make sure everything is included and the spec is actually met is to get as much detailed design from DBSAR and BLF as possible.

Basically, Barry and his people are trying to make sure that they understand the needs of the project and stop any mistakes or misunderstandings creeping in right from the start.

I applaud them for that, because it’s an article of faith in any engineering project that correcting mistakes gets drastically harder and more expensive as you reach later stages of the project.

I understand that the desire to keep it simple is based on the assumption that things will move faster and cheaper, or that the process even gets stuck if the design becomes complex. But you do don’t know that at all, that may be not true. A design with more features as this project is turning into may be easily achievable by Sofirn and may result in a more complete product that will be more useful and sell to a wider audiance that may have slightly different demands than you.

Sofirn thusfar is able to design and make basic flashlights but is eager to get on a higher level. For that they attracted some engineers from other flashlight companies, plus they happily absorb our spoon-fedded BLF-knowledge. In return we get products with our very own desirable quality features for a very reasonable price.

I understand you also. But if i am honest with myself, that “feature” is very silly. I cannot think of a single person that will actually use it, and even less to make a difference for them to buy the light or not. As i said peoples preference and choice will be much more influenced from R9 values and rosy tint at 3000 or 4000k. Changing tint between 3000 and 4000k is not really a real feature, it is a gimmick - if we are honest.

Please, do not be offended, I am talking with the uttermost respect, but am trying to be realistic.

Well, I have a use for tint ramping. I like 5000K for work lights because that colour temperature seems more natural to me when I’m doing repairs or moving stuff around the attic, but 3000K is better for reading and relaxing in the evening before bed.

The plan is for the lantern to support a ramp between 3000K and 5000K (not 4000K), so the feature is ideal for me. I can save money by only buying one device for both scenarios, or I can buy two to have a backup with both units being able to do everything.

Much better than having one 3000K light and one 5000K light, where Murphy’s law guarantees that the one that breaks is the one you’d rather have right now :slight_smile: