(prototype) the GT Mini

Thanks for the info.

Neutral White with a 30Q. Like I said not terribly disappointed because it takes a FET driver doing about 5.8 amps in a C8 with the same led to best it with a reverse tail clicky which doesn’t behave well with ramping UI.

I might pry off the bezel to see if it can be better focused.

I know the NW reads a bit lower, but I’m wondering why you only got 4.5A out of a 30Q. That’s the same battery I’m using and I got 5.5A.

Does the emitter look off center in the reflector? I was thinking it’s practically impossible for it to be off center due to way the centering ring is made.

No it’s not off center. I haven’t measured the current yet. I was using the current listed in the OP. I will check that and get back.

So your thinking the centering ring is either too high or too low?

I can’t measure the current with ramping, all I get is the double flash on my clamp meter.

Yes, I do believe that the centering ring isn’t the right height for proper focus. From what I’ve learned on here a dedomed led should have a focal point of about one meter like this

Here is the GT mini

On the wall the focal point (where the black center dot disappears) is only a couple of inches with the GT mini.

Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.

In case your wondering the first pic is a C8 with dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B 2S light that throws 760 meters for the duration of the battery life.

Are you measuring the Throw at the top of the ramp (not Turbo) double click to put it in Turbo —-my NW mine GT is getting 143k pulling 5.7amps —thats on a VTC6

No I’m measuring at turbo. When first trying out the light I measured at the top of the ramp but after reading the included instructions I measured at turbo. The numbers I gave are from turbo.

I was talking about replacing the switch because of failure or breakdown due to normal wear and tear. I believe the stock driver is already good as it is. For most people, there is really no compelling reason to replace the driver. Lumintop made a good business decision in using ATMEL MCU and BLF-inspired FET+1 driver design. Actually, this is the main selling point for me.

swib try different batteries to rule out that atleast. weird one guy gets kcd in the 140 range u in 110… too much difference imo…

Do you have your clamp meter settings correct? DC voltage, range of at least 7+ Amps? Using a short, thick wire?

I’ve never heard of such things, so I’m not much help here.

I only got 4.8A with the same setup as yours. Posted it a few pages back.

EDIT:

Measured the current draw again using a fresh batt (VTC5) and was able to get 5.65A. Repeated the test and was able to get the same figure. With a resting voltage of 4.15V, I was able to get 5.53A.

Swib, technically the XP-L HI is not a de-domed emitter and it’s certainly a different beast than a de-domed XP-G2, so these will have different focus requirements. That inverted V shape is indeed a good indicator but 1 meter is entirely too close to reference point-of-focus… a really strong thrower has that point many times further out.

I like to view the emitter from the front, inside the reflector, and see how far back you have to get in order for the yellow phosphor to fill the reflector, that usually shows where the focus point is.

As far as determining just where to position the die surface in the reflector, without the schematic on the reflector it can be a hit-or-miss proposition and simply a hands-on trial basis to find what works best in a particular light.

Good luck!

Yeah it’s not my meter, I just can’t get the light to do anything but double flash when testing. Maybe I’m not fast enough with tapping the leads. I don’t have any problem on non-rampng lights. I’ll switch to the other mode group and try again today sometime.

keep the wire in place - No tapping

just operate with the sideswitch

It sure is hit and miss. I have a bag full of centering rings because I often sand off too much and start seeing the numbers go down on my meter.

:person_facepalming: I’m so used to measuring tail switch lights I didn’t even think of the side switch. Thank you.

With the 30Q I use for testing I get 5.15 amps and with a slightly used VTC6 I get 5.48 amps and 120 kcd (with correction factor applied to my readings). Maybe it’s time to retire the old 30Q.

IMO the difference in output could be due to a higher Vf in this particular led. As I said it will find a good home where it will be appreciated.

UPDATE: I am still winning the battle of no new or recent tracking info. :smiley: :smiley: :wink: