2 Chargers 1 supply

Im thinking about investing in a 3d printer, and one of the projects i wanna do is print 2 lowers for my opus c3100 with a larger fan.
such designs exist
ie.

Credit to iX on thingiverse

except i would like to join two together and have them share a plug. i know 8cell chargers exist but, i think its a project worth trying.

my question is can i use one 12v 8a power supply and split the connector between, or will issues with the chargers ensue.?
i used to do this with my guitar pedals with no issues, but simple electronics.
anything to look out for with potential power supply types?

This shouldn’t provide any issues, because if am am correct, the stock supply for one charger only supplies 3 amps. Just make sure you wire them in parallel and not by accident in series.

It would work, as they all share the same voltage if I’m correct.

I would connect the main 8A lead with an XT60 female connector, then connect 2x DC 5.5x2,1mm connectors to a male XT60 connector.

That would make it easy to move around, and even make the battery chargers battery powered if you really need it.

Everything with Opus BT-C3100 listed in it

What kind of printer are you looking for/at

I have used my power supply that came with my TronXY X1 to power my charger

This is the power supply that comes with the TronXY 12Vdc 6A

I can take that design and use tinkercad to stick them together so both your chargers are connected by the base, then all you have to do is wire the 2.1mm input to the input on both boards…they shouldn’t use more than 4-5A if both are running wide open together

Working on the 60mm variant for you…

Apparently…I’m having a difficult time of uploading an .stl to tinkercad…hmmm

Yeah, looking over the next few months, i thought i wound enquirer as i was going to update my chargers but i might just get another opus.

I have all my charging equipment and batteries in the flip open section in the top of my toolbox, and like the idea of being able to print battery holders and aa/aaa dispensers, should be fun. so many project makers have uploaded.

dont worry about making anythin on my behalf Warhawk, it will be some time yet, but i know who to contact now.

Hah…just went back into tinkercad…and low and behold the model was just sitting there waiting for me…hmmm

Well…here it is…

Wall thickness is 2.5mm…so I put 2-2.5mm “blocks” holding duplicated housings together, all you have to do is print with a tiny bit of support because the blocks are 2.5mm up from build plate, you will need a buildplate greater than 207mm wide (I would be able to print this on my Anet A8, it has a 220x220x240 build area.

Looks like you might need some rubber feet to hold it off the desk surface or whatever to allow better cooling airflow, maybe some of those cheap rubber bumper feet things

Looks good Mate, thanks for your time,

I will look at the Anet a8.

Anet A8 is nice…older type printer…the Ender 3 is nice too
or if you want big…you can go for a CR-10 (buy once, cry once :slight_smile: )

https://us.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845899.html?wid=1433363

You will have to assemble it yourself but it’s pretty easy…and the all metal frames are usually pretty rigid (and with some mods even MORE rigid)
Tons of printable upgrades on thingiverse too

I like the Piper 3D, a buildable DIY multiple size 3D printer :slight_smile: (haven’t built one…yet)
https://piper3dprinters.com/

Cool, small, cheap, and a bit slow, called the cherry 3D printer would be cool too

You sound like youve gone down the rabbit hole mate, a lot to learn on just the hardware side, not to mention software.

The CR10 mentions heater bed not getting hot enough for some materials, i readd that ambient temps make a big difference to that to, shouldnt be an issue in Aus

i Think im going to go with the Ender 3, too much procrastination on make and model, best to jump in, not to mention video reviews seem very positive.

Nozzle gauge and resolution are not my immediate concern but as i advance i will think about updating, just gotta get the many, many reels of filament cost to get over for now.

If you insulate the bed, you can get the heat up.

I insulated my Anet A8, I can heat to 90C in about 7-9Min and maintain it for lengthy prints.

Ender 3 is an all metal Anet…and from what I hear VERY VERY good printer

Putting a 3D printer together is NO easy task…but doable if you are mechanically inclined…

Good luck entering the world of 3D printers…it’s another rabbit hole as you said :wink:

yeah, just spent the day trying to learn Fusion 360, talk about mind Fu. You wouldnt think drawing a box would be so hard, but apparently i was wrong.

240v in Aus, thats the good stuff, various Aus youtubers have beds heating up in about 5mins, but power cost 3x more than most do