Did anyone else notice the AR glass is actually a bit thick? The non-AR glass is 2.85mm and allows the bezel to sit mostly flush, but the AR version is almost 3.1mm and leaves a noticeable gap behind the bezel. Output difference is about 4.5% for me.
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
Still in need of a replacement. I have not had a working beacon since about 3 weeks from purchase. Responded to the PM with my full address, and never received a response. That was on 11/5/2017…
Interesting. I would have not expect PCB issues at that low of a voltage and current.
Well if there is a way of purchasing replacements then let me know where.
Otherwise I’ll live with it
I don’t know any of your details. Who did you PM? The Miller? He may have left by then. If you need a replacement switch, the only place to get it is the link above.
For the PCB. In my experience if they pass their initial QC they are good unless exposed to elements or chemicals.
I’ve seen some prepreg core cracking when doing high temp burn in but that was relatively freak accident and on high power board that were under a lot of stress
My Q8 is like new, no problems at all and is used almost daily.
Only thing I had to fix is led on switch, but it wasn’t working good when I got it. If you followed tread you may know about that problem on first units.
Replaced switch pcb and no problem all this time.
okay good, not that i worry really it seems like a robust well built light compared to convoy l6, astrolux lights that i have etc.I feel strange it took me so long get it but never too late as u say.
I joined that group buy early and still haven’t bought one, so no need to feel strange. I’m holding out for a CW version. Sofirn might be releasing an updated version of the Q8. We’ll have to wait and see.
The Q8 is actually the biggest longterm test of overdriving leds BLF-style since we started doing that in 2013. I have always wondered if 3A leds driven at 5A would eventually fry the leds, that never could be tested, and so far so good
The battery drain (parasitic drain) on the Q8 should be super tiny. It should take many years to drain the batteries. You can also turn off the switch lights to reduce the drain even more. Of course, if you are not going to use the light for a long time it’s best to turn the battery tube to cut all power.
Have you measured the drain on your light? What was it?