Emisar D4S review

Another solution until the pogo pins arrive: just use a piece of breadboard with some crooked pin headers as the programming vias are not aligned on a 100mil grid.
It may not be the best solution, but it’s faster than connecting all 6 pins seperate each time.

Adapter for the D4S is on the left, Clip for D4 / Q8 is on the right.

Also, if you don’t have an AVR ISP but own an arduino you can program the arduino to act as an ISP.

I love the timer feature on the Olight S1R. If Hank could give us a diffused side light, motion sensor and timer in the D4GT I’d have his baby.

Received a grey Nichia D4S today from Intl-outdoor - ordered August 3 (20 days ago).

Anyone got a pic of the magnet tailcap?

I couldn’t wait either, my XP-L 5000k came today and I got 4650 lumens at 4.10v with a Shockli on the KG-Lightbox, the shockli are taking hours to fully charge.

My ROT66 came too, faulty.

Bummer! What’s wrong with it?

One of the LED’s isn’t working. The Nichia ROT66 is fine though.

Ok. Starting with the basics, assuming everything has to be bought.

1. Buying the hardware

First you need the programmer itself, an USB ASP Programmer.
The original can be found here USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers - fischl.de while you can find it cheaper on Aliexpress or on Amazon
For the D4 or other boards without the nice connectors, you will need an SOIC8 programming clip to connect to the chip

Also, to get nearly any kind of connection, I suggest a set of Dupoint connectors (male-male, male-female, female-female)
You will use this cable to make connections between the Pins of the programmer and either the clip or the D4S programming pads.

2. Connections
Now lets look at the available connections, with an example for the D4S.
You have the programmer

And you have the D4S

Now you take the female-male dupont cables and connect it the following way:

USBasp -> D4S
GND (any) to V- (top left)
MOSI to MO
RST to RS
SCK to SC
MISO to MI
VCC to V+ (bottom right)

The result may look like this

(for the BLF Q8 ,D4 or so, you do the same thing but with the connector of the clip. But that’s out of scope for now)

3. Flashing itself

Get the hex-file from here: Index of /torches/fsm - take the latest date of anduril for your light
Tutorial for avrdude is here: AVR Tutorial - AVRDUDE

Short version of the tutorial:

  • Download hex from toykeeper.net
  • Download avrdude
  • Run this command: avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.YYYY-MM-DD.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a

Cells were fully charged and I have 2 of each cell.
Tests done in the KG-Lightbox.

Shockli 5500 mah: 4600 lumens
AWT 5200 mah: 4650 lumens
(D4 XP-L with VTC5A: 4300)

Very tough to call as it’s around 4600 for a split second. The Shockli both came on at 4400 at 4.20v though which was weird, they perform a bit better around 4.10-4.15v

A quick ceiling bounce with the ceiling bounce app calibrated to read 4300 off an Emisar D4 XP-L yeilded the same results:
D4 XP-L 4300
D4S XP-L 4600

Can anyone commend on the Neutral White - XP-G2 S4 5D, 4000K tint and the current draw on full power of the XP-G2 in general? How about tint shift and amount of yellow/green/red? Thinking about getting it as a warmer addition to the XP-L 5000K.

I ordered mine two weeks ago from international outdoors with a Liitokla cell for $70. I am very anxiously awaiting delivery!! i have the D4 and love it but it has it’s drawbacks. I don’t love how easily it can be accidentally turned on and certainly the heat (40 second stepdown) is not favorable.

I tried setting thermal calibration to 50c and all I could manage to do was create a beacon that can’t be disabled.

Got mine today only took 6 days to the UK.

maybe my niece and my nephew accidentally changed the default "current temperature" setting while playing with my d4s... is it possible to make a factory reset (and, in case of yes, how?) or do i have to reconfigure the thermal settings on my own now? many thanks in advance for any support...
btw: the aux leds of mine aren't cyan but green. that is quite odd.

I got green with mine.

mine on lowest setting could be mistaken for green, butt on higher setting are definitely cyan

They are identical except for the weight.

Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green.

Eyes are playing tricks.

note to TK…as you noted briefly, the edge/corner on the lanyard hole is as sharp as my younger mind was :partying_face:
doesn’t take much to knock it down w/stone or file, butt it is uncomfortable in hand.

That’s pretty fast shipping… congrats and enjoy.