Emisar D4S review

I got green with mine.

mine on lowest setting could be mistaken for green, butt on higher setting are definitely cyan

They are identical except for the weight.

Just tried to take a pic of mine using my phone and it does look cyan but the moment I take it away it looks green.

Eyes are playing tricks.

note to TK…as you noted briefly, the edge/corner on the lanyard hole is as sharp as my younger mind was :partying_face:
doesn’t take much to knock it down w/stone or file, butt it is uncomfortable in hand.

That’s pretty fast shipping… congrats and enjoy.

Thats why i dont want to mess with it… i just leave the light the way it is…

How many green d4s model is out there ? Is it the same ? Or lightning fixture?


free photo host

I vote #2 butt a bit brighter
You will never find a perfect match
online with monitors as such

Apparently my D4S is stuck in limbo somewhere. Chinese tracking says it cleared US customs on the 20th, but no US tracking service has picked it up yet.

Ordered 8/3…. still waiting here in Georgia. :weary:

No, but Anduril has two modes which shut themselves off. The sunset mode dims for an hour then shuts off. Or the candle mode can run for up to 4.5 hours in increments of 30 minutes, before it shuts itself off.

The “README” file in the firmware repository contains information about how to get started, including links to hardware and a few tutorials. It can be found at the first link in my signature.

I finally got around to looking into Anduril and it seems wonderful! Should give me an nice break from figuring out the mess that is native SSH support in Windows 10 for launchpad. I can use that time for my Calculus 3 class.

Does anyone else’s (green) body tube have four fine (<1mm) equally spaced lines on the outside, running the length of the tube? It looks like the dye was applied in four sections and that there is a little overlap at the borders of each.

There is no factory reset, but it wouldn’t help much anyway because the thermal sensor isn’t calibrated at the factory. That can only be done manually.

To find out what the light thinks the current temperature is, go to tempcheck mode. Three clicks from off, then wait a moment, then click twice. It’ll then blink out what it perceives as the current temperature in C. For example, if it thinks it’s 31 C, it’ll blink 3 times, then pause, then blink 1 time, then pause for a longer time. Then it’ll check temperature again and repeat.

From there, click 4 times to go to thermal config mode. Or, from off, click 10 times. Either way works. The light should then blink once, then stutter or “buzz” for a few seconds. During this buzz, you can click to tell it what the actual temperature is. If you’re in a room at 22 C, click 22 times. There is no need to hurry; it’ll wait until you stop clicking for 3 seconds.

Then it should blink twice, and buzz again. During this buzz, you can set a temperature limit. The default limit is 45 C. To set a new limit, click a bunch of times, one click per degree C, minus 30. So, for 45 C, click 15 times. For 50 C, click 20 times.

The light should then go back to whatever mode it was in before — tempcheck or “off”. When that happens, the new settings should be saved. This should only ever have to be done once.

Thanks, just ordered the whole package. :+1:

Cheers ToyKeeper I clicked 50 times for 50c and not 20!

If you flash Andúril you get a similar UI with 5 clicks for momentary and 4 clicks to lock out.
Andúril is described in the FW3A thread, the first post.

The green D1 I bought a few weeks ago looks like your D4S, looks like it’s faded and washed out. The photos on the website and from other people make it look darker and richer.

Here are mine compared but I EDC my 4d.