FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

If I understand correctly, yes, that is why proto2 wasn’t the final version.

It’s not a problem with the inner tube rubbing against the outer tube. The issue is the inner tube rubbing against the driver retaining ring. And to fix that, I think the gap between them has been widened.

The proto2 lights work fine after putting a strip of Kapton tape around the front end of the inner tube, but it shouldn’t need that. So a revised CAD model was sent, and is being produced.

FWIW, the prototypes so far are:

  • Proto0: Made by Fritz on his lathe.
  • Proto1: Made by Lumintop, had several issues to fix.
  • Proto2: Made by Lumintop, fixed all significant issues except one.
  • Proto3: Being made now.

Firmware is pretty stable, but I think Lumintop opted for the safer of two thermal options — the method which drops to the 8x7135 level at the slightest hint of overheating while the FET is active. Normal regulation is used below that level. Specifically:

  • Ramp level 1 to 65: No thermal regulation, not bright enough to need it.
  • Ramp level 66 to 130: Full thermal regulation.
  • Ramp level 131 to 150: Stays at requested level until overheating is detected, then smoothly drops to level 130. Will not attempt to regulate back up above level 130. This is basically a temperature-based step-down with a smooth edge.

With default settings, level 130 is the ramp ceiling. So every default level except turbo has thermal regulation, and turbo has a temperature-based step-down.

Additionally, there is some extremely paranoid thermal code in muggle mode:

  • Overheating shouldn’t be possible at muggle-mode levels, but if overheating is detected somehow, assume something has gone seriously wrong. Drop to the lowest muggle brightness.

I think the plan is to test proto3 whenever it arrives, confirm everything works, and then start production.

Awesome! Thanks for the update ToyKeeper. :+1:

Great to hear those, especially the detailed info about the thermal configuration.

But the ‘default’ thermal configuration above can be overridden by the user?

The user can calibrate the sensor and set a different temperature limit. The user can also change the ramp floor and ceiling levels. However, the level at which the thermal algorithm changes is hard-coded. Changing that requires reflashing the firmware.

Let’s hope proto 3 = production light :blush:

ToyKeeper, is it possible to buy the driver and tail switch for this light by themselves? I’m interested in playing around with the electronics without waiting for the production lights to ship.

I’m just curious what you would do with them since they won’t fit any other light.

I will just hook it up at my bench. I’ve never played with a light with an electronic tail switch and a ramping driver, I’m curious to see how it works.

It will work like any other combination of driver with e-switch and ramping firmware. Having the e-switch in the tail is only special inside the flashlight. On the bench, it won’t be in the tail anymore, just a standard e-switch setup.

i <3 u

18350 please

unsubscribed

I have less interest in Lumintop than they have in their customers

I see you really dislike Lumintop, but couldn’t find the reason in your recent posts. What gives?

Guess it’s related to how Lumintop handled GT issues. He wrote exactly the same on that thread.

9 threads, actually.

Add 1 more & make it 10. :person_facepalming: He even put one in the BLF Ultimate Lantern Project thread. :smiley:

I’m in for one.

Bye-bye…… :wink:

This is going to be an amazing BLF/TLF flashlight

#510 on the list ...

Looking forward to the Proto3 feedback!

Cheers

Now I know this has been briefly discussed already, but I really would like to ask for an optional deep carry clip.

I agree that it would look pretty out of place and weird, maybe even destroy the minimalist aesthetic, but for me it adds a lot to usability as an EDC light, and it’s still optional. The aesthetics of this light in regard to taper and finish seem to be fairly contested anyways. (BTW, has a final decision about finish been made already?)
Even if it costs far more than it’s production costs, I’d get one and I think most people appreciating deep carry would be willing to lay down 5 bucks or so for a decent clip. It also isn’t too hard to design, manufacture and doesn’t have to be fitted to the light for shipping.
(Also, as this would be an option that some really value and some don’t care about at all, maybe make it titanium and more expensive?)
Any arguments against this that I’ve missed? Would love to hear what you think about this.

Also, has Lumintop said anything about 2 emitter choices already?

One more suggestion @ToyKeeper: The beacon mode is pretty nice for having you remind you of tasks that you have to do periodically. However when N clicks corresponds to seconds, the maximum I’d bother to set is 30 seconds or so. How about a kind of timer, where you can set minutes as well?
Anyways, really appreciate all the work everyone is putting into this, thank you all so much :+1:

Looking at the code, it occurs to me that the maximum delay it’ll allow is 65 seconds. It uses a 16-bit integer for the number of milliseconds to wait, and that maxes out at 65.535 seconds.

The timer is not very accurate though. In reality, it could be anywhere from 60 to 70 seconds. And it doesn’t actually sleep between pulses, so it still uses a milliamp or so while waiting. It’s not really designed well for use as a timer with long intervals.

There is a compile-time option to allow it to ‘tick’ every half-second while asleep, which is a far more efficient way to measure time while off, but it’s even less accurate… and it’s not quite half a second. More like every 0.512 seconds, plus or minus 15%. It allows aux LEDs to blink while the light is asleep, on lights which have that, but it’s still not great for long-interval beacons.

OTOH, candle mode is okay for timing things in very rough half-hour increments. It may take anywhere from 27 to 33 minutes per cycle, but if that’s acceptable, and if half-hour time slices are acceptable, it can be used as a timer. I find it’s nice in the bath, for example. When the candle goes out, it’s time to get out of the tub.