If you flash Andúril you get a similar UI with 5 clicks for momentary and 4 clicks to lock out.
Andúril is described in the FW3A thread, the first post.
The green D1 I bought a few weeks ago looks like your D4S, looks like it’s faded and washed out. The photos on the website and from other people make it look darker and richer.
many thanks for your very detailed reply, tk, i am familiar with the calibration procedure :)
so i'm gonna go to get a working ambient temperature thermometer soon...
the aux leds of mine are looking really green at low and high with digi cam and eye. it's the nichia version from hank's shop. after the weekend i could post some pictures.
In Neal’s deals for the D4S (seems to be nearly similar price as directly Hank’s but with a few inclusion), it mentions some models have blue/cyan aux leds while others have green aux leds…
I used my copper Sinner with the enlarged copper head and 33mm Quad Noctigon with Samsung LH351D emitters last night and the hot spot is pretty large, out in the open the “throw” is not very impressive at all. I knew that going in of course, so I carried a thrower with me on the walk down to the road. I hadn’t realized just how warm my 5000K 80CRI Samsungs are until last night out in the open, the color or tint is almost warmer than I care for, especially compared to my Nitecore headlamp I was wearing. Still, all in all I like the light for it’s power and clarity….
Had been planning to put the Samsung’s in my D4S when it gets here (tomorrow supposedly) but now I’m not so sure about that…
Hmm I may have to order another. “Shakey Hands” McGee here, means no trying to flow emitters for a few more weeks. Now if we could find a different color for the locator leds (would love to see a red or orange possibly purple).
I am also told that on the D4S the Angie Optic is glued to the 33mm Noctigon board and the legs will break trying to remove it. So it may be wise to have a replacement optic on hand before attempting to change emitters…