Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
August 24, 2018, 5:31pm
62
I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.
To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.
I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
August 24, 2018, 5:43pm
63
Texas_Ace:
I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.
To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.
I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.
OK, this sounds really serious.
Without dedoming the CRI90 emitters seem to be the best choice right? Or do they all have the same shift pretty much?
If you want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.
To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
August 24, 2018, 5:53pm
65
The only 90CRI XHP70.2’s I have seen were warm white ~3000k. Have you seen cooler 90cri LED’s?
Even the 80cri is 4000k. The 4000k 80cri does minimize the green tint shift my is still gets pretty warm / yellow.
It really depends on if you are sensitive to green / yellow hues. I am very sensitive so I don’t bother with de-doming. Others do not mind at all.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
August 24, 2018, 6:06pm
66
The_Driver:
If want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.
To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.
3A/3D for 5000K according to https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP702.pdf right? Is this completely independent of the CRI value?
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
August 24, 2018, 6:14pm
67
Yeah, it has nothing to do with the CRI.
An A or D tint is best for sure but The ones I have tried still went a bit green, just less then some other tints.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
August 24, 2018, 6:15pm
68
OK thanks. I’ll try to get some of these. 13$ at fasttech…wow
2R and 2U would be even better.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
September 29, 2018, 8:49pm
70
I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
September 29, 2018, 9:02pm
71
LichtAn:
I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,
That was KB that said that and it does seem to work for him, although I think he said that is also can tint shift cooler around the edges after doing that just to a much lesser extent?
Overall that is only for the very advanced modders among us.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
September 30, 2018, 9:34am
72
Texas_Ace:
LichtAn:
I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,
That was KB that said that and it does seem to work for him, although I think he said that is also can tint shift cooler around the edges after doing that just to a much lesser extent?
Overall that is only for the very advanced modders among us.
Because of the precision needed or what do you mean? What if I remove in safe regions and leave a bit of safety margin?
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
September 30, 2018, 3:37pm
73
Yeah, it is very easy to mess it up and kill the LED. Removing only some of the phosphor next to the die I don’t think would be worth it but I have not tried it myself.
You can always try it and see what you think.
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
September 30, 2018, 5:41pm
74
Guess I’m in the for the risk, as soon as everthing arrives. At the end of the day, it’s just a dead emitter. :money_mouth_face:
Texas_Ace:
Yeah, it is very easy to mess it up and kill the LED. Removing only some of the phosphor next to the die I don’t think would be worth it but I have not tried it myself.
You can always try it and see what you think.
Era of dedoming and slicing will be over sooner than you think guys :+1:
LichtAn
(LichtAn)
October 2, 2018, 6:49am
76
So what’s the upcoming Era about? Glueing silicone domes on domeless LEDs?
Pavlo
(Pavlo)
October 30, 2019, 9:12pm
78
Hi ladies/gents,
Looking to update one of my lights with MT-G2 emitters.
Looking to go 3000K or 4000K, 80 CRI min.
Seems like XHP70.2 is the obvious choice. Any recommendations?
Has anybody tried the 80 CRI variants from Kaidomain? Looking to avoid the XP-G3 high CRI puke Green effect.
As for beam quality, will the beam suffer alot going from MT-G2 to XHP70.2?
Thanks
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
October 30, 2019, 9:18pm
79
I tried one of the 80cri 4000k LED’s from kai and it is one of the best tint XHP70.2’s I have tried.
The beam should be tighter then the MT-G2.
Pavlo
(Pavlo)
October 30, 2019, 9:19pm
80
Thanks Texas_Ace
Any donut hole? or is the gap in 70.2 close enough to be a non issue?
Texas_Ace
(Texas_Ace)
October 30, 2019, 9:21pm
81
That will depend on the reflector / light but as a rule you will just have a slightly dimmer spot in the center, no hole to speak of.