XHP70.2 P2 4000k Output test by Texas_Ace - it's over 9000!! lumens and still going strong!

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Texas_Ace
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LichtAn wrote:
Guys what’s the best XHP70.2 emitter for ending up with a nice neutral white without much tint shift after dedoming?

I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.

To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.

I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.

LichtAn
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Texas_Ace wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
Guys what’s the best XHP70.2 emitter for ending up with a nice neutral white without much tint shift after dedoming?

I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.

To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.

I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.

OK, this sounds really serious.
Without dedoming the CRI90 emitters seem to be the best choice right? Or do they all have the same shift pretty much?

The_Driver
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If you want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.

To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.

Texas_Ace
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LichtAn wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
Guys what’s the best XHP70.2 emitter for ending up with a nice neutral white without much tint shift after dedoming?

I have yet to find an XHP70.2 that does not have significant tint shift with dedoming.

To end up with a NW tint after the de-dome always ends up with a green tint shift in my experience.

I don’t even mess with de-doming them anymore on my own lights.

OK, this sounds really serious.
Without dedoming the CRI90 emitters seem to be the best choice right? Or do they all have the same shift pretty much?

The only 90CRI XHP70.2’s I have seen were warm white ~3000k. Have you seen cooler 90cri LED’s?

Even the 80cri is 4000k. The 4000k 80cri does minimize the green tint shift my is still gets pretty warm / yellow.

It really depends on if you are sensitive to green / yellow hues. I am very sensitive so I don’t bother with de-doming. Others do not mind at all.

LichtAn
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The_Driver wrote:
If want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.

To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.

3A/3D for 5000K according to https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP702.pdf right? Is this completely independent of the CRI value?

Texas_Ace
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LichtAn wrote:
The_Driver wrote:
If want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.

To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.

3A/3D for 5000K according to https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP702.pdf right? Is this completely independent of the CRI value?

Yeah, it has nothing to do with the CRI.

An A or D tint is best for sure but The ones I have tried still went a bit green, just less then some other tints.

LichtAn
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OK thanks. I’ll try to get some of these. 13$ at fasttech…wow

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LichtAn wrote:
The_Driver wrote:
If want a good tint after de-doming you need to use a very reddish tint (under the BBL) before de-doming.

To reduce the greenish/yellowish corona you need to remove all excess Phosphor after de-doming.

3A/3D for 5000K according to https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XHP702.pdf right? Is this completely independent of the CRI value?

2R and 2U would be even better.

LichtAn
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I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,

Texas_Ace
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LichtAn wrote:
I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,

That was KB that said that and it does seem to work for him, although I think he said that is also can tint shift cooler around the edges after doing that just to a much lesser extent?

Overall that is only for the very advanced modders among us.

LichtAn
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Texas_Ace wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
I read somewhere that after slicing the dome, you should remove the rest of the silicone surrounding the die to reduce the tint shift in the corona. Can’t remember where I read that though. Does that make sense?,

That was KB that said that and it does seem to work for him, although I think he said that is also can tint shift cooler around the edges after doing that just to a much lesser extent?

Overall that is only for the very advanced modders among us.

Because of the precision needed or what do you mean? What if I remove in safe regions and leave a bit of safety margin?

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Yeah, it is very easy to mess it up and kill the LED. Removing only some of the phosphor next to the die I don’t think would be worth it but I have not tried it myself.

You can always try it and see what you think.

LichtAn
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Guess I’m in the for the risk, as soon as everthing arrives. At the end of the day, it’s just a dead emitter. Cash

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, it is very easy to mess it up and kill the LED. Removing only some of the phosphor next to the die I don’t think would be worth it but I have not tried it myself.

You can always try it and see what you think.

Era of dedoming and slicing will be over sooner than you think guys Thumbs Up

LichtAn
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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, it is very easy to mess it up and kill the LED. Removing only some of the phosphor next to the die I don’t think would be worth it but I have not tried it myself.

You can always try it and see what you think.

Era of dedoming and slicing will be over sooner than you think guys Thumbs Up

So what’s the upcoming Era about? Glueing silicone domes on domeless LEDs? Big Smile

luminarium iaculator
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No…
They will simply look like this:


Pavlo
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Hi ladies/gents,

Looking to update one of my lights with MT-G2 emitters.
Looking to go 3000K or 4000K, 80 CRI min.

Seems like XHP70.2 is the obvious choice. Any recommendations?
Has anybody tried the 80 CRI variants from Kaidomain? Looking to avoid the XP-G3 high CRI puke Green effect.

As for beam quality, will the beam suffer alot going from MT-G2 to XHP70.2?

Thanks

Texas_Ace
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I tried one of the 80cri 4000k LED’s from kai and it is one of the best tint XHP70.2’s I have tried.

The beam should be tighter then the MT-G2.

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Thanks Texas_Ace

Any donut hole? or is the gap in 70.2 close enough to be a non issue?

Texas_Ace
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That will depend on the reflector / light but as a rule you will just have a slightly dimmer spot in the center, no hole to speak of.

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One last question, is the XHP70.2 LED voltage of 6V or 12V dependant on the MCPCB layout?

Texas_Ace
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Pavlo wrote:
One last question, is the XHP70.2 LED voltage of 6V or 12V dependant on the MCPCB layout?

Yes, all the LED’s themselves are the same, just the mcpcb that changes.

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amazing, thanks so much!

lidas
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Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum, I’ve seen this post, I’m looking for a driver project to power this wonderful LED, I have to be able to power it with both 2S and 3S batteries without losing the power of the LED, you know how to help me

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You will need a buck driver to do that. It could be hard to find one as there are not a lot of options.

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lidas wrote:
Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum, I’ve seen this post, I’m looking for a driver project to power this wonderful LED, I have to be able to power it with both 2S and 3S batteries without losing the power of the LED, you know how to help me

Maybe contact Lexel, he makes Buck drivers, but I dont know if he makes them work with dual input voltages. Maybe.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57772

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

lidas
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JasonWW wrote:
Maybe contact Lexel, he makes Buck drivers, but I dont know if he makes them work with dual input voltages. Maybe. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57772

I need the circuit diagram of the driver because I have to be able to draw the pcb on a specific drawing for the torches that I have created, I don’t like already made pcb

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lidas wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Maybe contact Lexel, he makes Buck drivers, but I dont know if he makes them work with dual input voltages. Maybe. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57772

I need the circuit diagram of the driver because I have to be able to draw the pcb on a specific drawing for the torches that I have created, I don’t like already made pcb


I doubt anyone will share proprietary designs with you. Maybe you can reverse engineer an existing design. Then you’d need to create or adapt your own user interface. Sorry, I can’t help with that.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

Texas_Ace
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lidas wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Maybe contact Lexel, he makes Buck drivers, but I dont know if he makes them work with dual input voltages. Maybe. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57772

I need the circuit diagram of the driver because I have to be able to draw the pcb on a specific drawing for the torches that I have created, I don’t like already made pcb

All of lexels Buck drivers I have seen are based on the BLF GT buck driver that Del designed. Del posted the schematic somewhere along with the firmware.

Lexel beefs them up with extra components to get around the ~5-8A limit that the base design has according to Del.

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