I just measured mine with XP-G2 S4 3D emitters at 5M and it shows 34.25Kcd for 370.135M throw.
Appreciate the detailed explanations.
Would it be possible to request for the updated RampingIOS .hex files when they get updated? (So far, I have only learned how to flash pre-existing .hex files, but not to build .hex files from source code…) Thanks in advance.
I have a d4s xpl 5000k already… i love it so much. Its not too yellow or too white…
Do you happen to have a lumen specs with your tube ? Of course with the fully charged 26650. Thanks
I swapped the XP-G2 S4 3D’s out for Samsung LH351D 5000K at 80CRI. On the Shockli 26650 at 4.13V it’s making 4988.7 lumens. I used 18ga Turnigy leads and synthetic diamond thermal compound putting it back together. 
When I charged up the Shockli to begin with, the XP-G2’s didn’t show above 3529 lumens.
So if I were to swap XPL-HIs into my 219C D4S, they would only get 80% power? Or is that for ramp ceiling only and turbo is still 100%?
Also, thanks for your work on this light, it’s amazing.
Sure, though I don’t know when that will be, exactly.
For now, the most recent builds are here:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4s/dev/rampingiosv3.2018-07-14.hex
http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4s/dev/rampingiosv3.219c.2018-07-14.hex
Yes, even turbo is limited to 80%. There wouldn’t really be any point in limiting the power if it didn’t apply to turbo, since it’s the primary mode which was giving people problems.
I suggested LH351D as an alternative since, from what I’ve heard, it doesn’t run into the same heat issues. But I don’t know if that will happen. Ideally, I think it would work well to do 2x4000K and 2x5000K, both at 90 CRI.
Highest reading yet from 4 Samsung LH351D 5000K 80CRI emitters.
Using a brand new LG HG6 20650 fresh off the charger at 4.20V my new Emisar D4S made 5,920.2 lumens in Turbo mode. 
Wow that’s insane! I just got my D4S XP-L HI 5D tint and my TA lumen tube calibrated with Maukka calibration lights measures 3,800 lumens at turn-on using two different Shockli fully charged. I’m surprised the LH351D can make that much more than the XP-G2. On my M43, the XP-G2 5D is brighter than the XP-L HI 5D, which is also much brighter than the LH351D 4000k 90cri.
I’m also very impressed with how nice the auxiliary lights look. Just an idea, would it be possible to make the auxiliary leds glimmer individually by a future driver update? If that’s too hard, maybe having the LEDs “breathe” simultaneously.
BLING!
I think my Samsungs are U6 binning, lot of room on top but they’re considerably brighter than the current 90CRI offering which is why I went with the 80’s… splitting differences as it were.
[quote=SKV89]
Love the idea of making the AUX LED’s breathe!
In terms of max lumens on XP-sized emitters, the scale is generally (from most to least):
- XP-L2 HD
- LH351D
- XP-L HD
- XP-L HI
- XP-G3
- 219c
- XP-G2
- 219b
- XP-E2
If I recall correctly, at least. Assuming other things are equal, like color temperature and CRI. Warmer tints and lower CRI generally produce fewer lumens per watt.
So it’s not at all surprising that a LH351D would beat XP-G2 on lumens. It’s enough steps above that it can still put out more light even with somewhat higher CRI.
The Meteor isn’t a very good way to gauge emitter capabilities. It doesn’t run the emitters as hard as they can go, and it is limited by Amps instead of Watts so it will generally deliver more power to older higher-voltage emitters, like the XP-G2.
Not really. The breathing effect costs a lot of power. Instead of just powering the LEDs (0.03 to 0.90 mA), it requires keeping the MCU awake to pulse the emitters on and off fast enough that it looks like it’s dimming. The MCU by itself requires several times as much power as the LEDs (2 to 6 mA). So “breathing” mode would be less bright and have only a fraction as much runtime.
You could make it “breathe” by changing the firmware, but I don’t think it would be worthwhile.
A point to ponder…
The availability of the Samsungs to date shows us only about mid range output levels. The binning goes up to “W” and then in increments of 1 all the way to 9… I used U6 bin so as you can see, there is a lot more to be discovered from Samsung while Cree is being left behind. The XP-L2’s are not very pretty for flashlights.
Given a disregard for CRI clarity, there are some significantly more powerful Samsung’s available that easily match the Cree XP-L2 in output, showing over 2000 lumens per emitter. I opted for the 80 CRI in 5000K tint to achieve some of the best of both worlds, but am seriously considering going for some of their top bins available just to see what gives. I mean, sure, 5920 lumens sounds really nice and all, but it’s only a measly 1480 lumens per emitter, now on the other hand if I’d left smaller wires in place and purposely limited high current draw then it would be easier on the light, give a more efficient output and in a very pleasing tint with high color rendering. So perhaps it’s time we look at quality a lot harder than quantity.
I know, right?
The tail magnet is so powerful in mine I was walking around with a c-cell battery attached to the outside of my cargo pocket, until my son asked me what kind of voodoo I was performing. I also wondered how long I had my fly open
I want to say thank you for putting this all together…. Along with Toymaker providing updated configs, it really helps people like me getting into the hobby of flashing flashlights.
Ah, but is this one a good candidate to flash? Will Anduril run the auxillary lights?
Yes, currently it’s the best one since you can flash it without a full disassembly.
And yes, aux LEDs work but they have different shortcuts to change the modes
TK must’ve upgraded Anduril since my last download.
I had the D4S fully disassembled in short order, flashing the MCU wouldn’t be a problem and I’ve thought about upgrading the FET as well but haven’t yet. I’m already set up to flash MMU boards so plugging in to the D4S driver shouldn’t be difficult either, just want to find out if the auxillary led’s are fully supported before I change anything. I keep messing up and going into Tactical momentary lockout as I’m used to 4 clicks doing lockout on Anduril . Ugh.
Edit: Now running Anduril-D4S. Wondering where to find a diagram on how to tune the auxillary LED’s, can’t seem to locate that… Thank you once again TK, awesome work and very much appreciated!