The availability of the Samsungs to date shows us only about mid range output levels. The binning goes up to “W” and then in increments of 1 all the way to 9… I used U6 bin so as you can see, there is a lot more to be discovered from Samsung while Cree is being left behind. The XP-L2’s are not very pretty for flashlights.
Given a disregard for CRI clarity, there are some significantly more powerful Samsung’s available that easily match the Cree XP-L2 in output, showing over 2000 lumens per emitter. I opted for the 80 CRI in 5000K tint to achieve some of the best of both worlds, but am seriously considering going for some of their top bins available just to see what gives. I mean, sure, 5920 lumens sounds really nice and all, but it’s only a measly 1480 lumens per emitter, now on the other hand if I’d left smaller wires in place and purposely limited high current draw then it would be easier on the light, give a more efficient output and in a very pleasing tint with high color rendering. So perhaps it’s time we look at quality a lot harder than quantity.
The tail magnet is so powerful in mine I was walking around with a c-cell battery attached to the outside of my cargo pocket, until my son asked me what kind of voodoo I was performing. I also wondered how long I had my fly open
I want to say thank you for putting this all together…. Along with Toymaker providing updated configs, it really helps people like me getting into the hobby of flashing flashlights.
TK must’ve upgraded Anduril since my last download.
I had the D4S fully disassembled in short order, flashing the MCU wouldn’t be a problem and I’ve thought about upgrading the FET as well but haven’t yet. I’m already set up to flash MMU boards so plugging in to the D4S driver shouldn’t be difficult either, just want to find out if the auxillary led’s are fully supported before I change anything. I keep messing up and going into Tactical momentary lockout as I’m used to 4 clicks doing lockout on Anduril . Ugh.
Edit: Now running Anduril-D4S. Wondering where to find a diagram on how to tune the auxillary LED’s, can’t seem to locate that… Thank you once again TK, awesome work and very much appreciated!
When I flashed Anduril it seemed simplest to remove the driver to do so. In the process I went ahead and tried to tone it down a bit and swapped the 18ga leads put in yesterday for smaller 20ga Teflon coated leads. This ended up with a whole 276 lumen drop, so not enough to even notice. Oh well. An attempt was made… lol
Is it a MMU-style chip now? I haven’t taken the driver out of mine yet to look…
This isn’t as good as Lexel’s flashing adapter, but I found the D4S was pretty easy to reflash with a usbasp, a ribbon cable, and some solid-core wire:
I merely meant that I have wires set up for the board that flashes the MMU for a 10mm driver. So I have tinned wires set up on the USB ASP. They’re set up in a 4x2 arrangement though, not the 3x3 of the Emisar D4S, so it would still require some finagling for me to be able to flash it in the light, hence why I pulled the driver to flash it. Meant to also change the FET but did not, having some issues today not flashlight related…
Thank you for pointing me at that UI. I had already figured out the triple clicks to change levels in lockout but forgot about the “hold” for on-time use. prc8 it.
I should probably add it to the diagram somewhere, but there isn’t a good place to put it… and it’s only relevant to some of the supported hosts. So it remains sort of hidden.
Have you verified that these DuPont pins will fit in the programming holes of the D4S? Because all of my DuPont connector pins are too fat for the holes drilled in the D4S board, and I had to build a programming harness with some solderless bread board jumpers that did fit.
I was originally going to use some jumper pins, but I couldn’t find any in my parts bins. So I used some random wire I found instead.
Hopefully Lexel’s flashing connector will become pretty standard soon, but for now things are a bit more ad-hoc. I refer to the pinouts in flashlightwiki whenever I flash the D4S. This is fine for one-time or occasional flashing, but inconvenient during development. So I still do most of my development on a decapitated Emisar D4 with its brains hanging out. It works fine as long as I don’t need to do thermal testing or hardware-specific stuff.
The command: avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -e will erase the contents of the chip so that it can be re-written to. Finally, flash the driver with the new firmware: (change the star.hex part to whatever you named your .hex file) avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -Uflash:w:star.hex:a -Ulfuse:w:0x75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m Be mindful of the value of the fuses; they may change from firmware to firmware. In the above example, the “low fuse” is 0×75 and the “high fuse” is 0xff. Generally all firmwares will state the proper fuse values in the .c file.
Are fuse considerations/command for flashing the D4S?
or just the "avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.2018-08-22.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a" command as is?
Don’t do that. It’s unnecessary and it risks bricking the MCU. Hoop should really remove that part of the tutorial.
Also, don’t use “-p t13” on a tiny85. It can also cause problems.
I recommend using bin/flash-85.sh, or copying the command in that script and replacing the filename.
Some firmwares specify fuses within, and sometimes what they specify isn’t correct. I’ve tried to include a flash.sh script inside any project with non-default settings, and otherwise it’s probably best to use one of the bin/flash*.sh scripts matching the MCU type.
I should probably go through the entire repository sometime to check that the comments at the top of each file are actually correct, because some of them aren’t. In some cases, it’s just copy/pasted from another project and was never updated.
In any case, there is no need to erase the ROM before writing new data. At best, it’s redundant. And at worst, a couple people reported that the chip wouldn’t respond any more afterward.
I mean, sure, 5920 lumens sounds really nice and all, but it’s only a measly 1480 lumens per emitter, now on the other hand if I’d left smaller wires in place and purposely limited high current draw then it would be easier on the light, give a more efficient output and in a very pleasing tint with high color rendering. So perhaps it’s time we look at quality a lot harder than quantity.
