Not toykeeper, but this command is enough to flash the D4S. You still need to have avrdude installed
Exactly. That is the breathing effect.
In terms of implementation, it is done by enabling PWM on the indicator LED pin, and then cycling a slow triangle wave (linear zig-zag) on the PWM level. It’s really easy to do, but it requires keeping the MCU awake in order to generate a PWM signal. So in that mode, about 95% to 99% of the total power goes toward running the MCU, and only 1% to 5% for powering the LED. It’s very inefficient.
In contrast, simply turning the LED on and then putting the MCU to sleep makes the button brighter while also greatly reducing the amount of power used.
On the light I measured, breathing mode used about 4 mA on average. Meanwhile, I’ve got moon mode running at about 1.7 mA in Anduril. And the BLF Q8’s button LED uses about 0.1 mA at full brightness. Or running the Q8 button LED in blinking mode, it’s about 0.1 mA while on and 0.01 mA while off, with a ratio of 1 to 8. So overall it’s about 0.03 mA average while blinking.
So on a 3000 mAh cell, I get roughly the following runtimes:
- Breathing mode (Astrolux et al): 1 month
- Moon mode (Anduril): 2.5 months
- Button LED (Q8, high): 3.4 years
- Button LED (Q8, low or blinking): 11 years
This huge difference in runtime is why I haven’t added breathing mode.
I wondered why my MF01/02 went flat so quick!
I’m gonna sell.
The lack of Instant Turbo is making the D4S a bugger to review, I’ve had to re-shoot several times noticing the beamshots aren’t bright enough. I’m too used to my many D4’s.
[quote=ToyKeeper]
It looks like FSM get its noodly appendage
If you want instant turbo from off, all you have to do is set the ceiling level to 150 (1 click during the ceiling config).
The one I ordered from Hank came today….my back up D4S lasted about 2 minutes…….
Now it’s my wife’s D4S…… 
KawiBoy 1428 That’s why I went ahead and ordered another!
one more thing for me to worry about
The green is from Hank, the grey from MTN
My green one from MTN Electronics got here Saturday and has the programming via’s like the green one shown above right. Richard was positive that the optics are glued to the MCPCB but mine wasn’t, so there seems to be a couple of variables in these, maybe some first runs got through done one way before they figured out a better way?
I picked up a couple of flat top batteries for the D4S (it’s finally at Canada customs! Hooray!) and was wondering of one would be significantly better/worse? My TA lumen tube is stuck in customs (9 days now) so I thought I’d ask the collective wisdom here instead of just guessing.
I’m hoping this hasn’t come up already and I missed it. Apologies if it has.
Well that makes things interesting. It’s both easier and harder to connect to the line of flat pads — easier because I assume it fits a standardized set of jumper pins or something, harder because it has no holes so one cannot just shove wires through it.
I hope Lexel’s connector becomes widely-used soon, and I hope we can get someone to make and sell the keys or flashing kits fairly cheap.
Cheers! For some reason I thought that just applied to the stepped mode, aaarggh!
Looking at HKJ’s tests, the Liitokala has more capacity, but the IJOY has less voltage sag at high current (15-30A).
Yep, they are a really good performing cell….IR on my Sky RC charger puts them at 16.
Had to check my D4S with only the driver spring removed and a brass contact added as the only mod to an otherwise stock light. 5,650lm on the other IJOY @ 4,21v.
Also checked the wife’s Stock D4S I got today from Hank using the IJOY 26650 4.21v off the Sky RC charger 5,050lm @ Turn on.
The IJOY’s are pretty freak’in good!
Hi kiwi, is your tube calibrated with maukka lights ?
Done. I will be completely rewriting that guide soon and to greater depth.
I got the light the other day, with the V3 Hi’s. Throws further than expected and with a better beam profile than expected. The UI is great. The aux LEDs are pretty. Very nicely done. This light is a big deal.
Thanks!
It doesn’t come up often, but this wasn’t the first time someone asked about that particular detail.
Yep! Set up exactly as T/A’s instructions for the diffuser’s, I check calibration before each use… And I keep it covered with the BLF GT Hoodie.
It’s helped me find the weakness in a few of my mods, that I have gone back thru them and made them a bit better. :+1: