Emisar D4S review

Thank you toykeeper. So this only sets the secondary led brightness level for lockout mode? I notice once I take the light out of lockout mode the secondary leds go back to lowest setting.

Ok. Great number. Thanks for the input…

Youre welcome but I’m not Toykeeper :smiley:
I told both lockout and unlocked setting method.
Set for lockout: triple click
set for unlocked: click-click-hold

Ha ha ha thank you Zozz! I apologize. I am using my phone and the screen is small!

Today I removed the brass driver contact, and made a thinner and larger diameter copper contact out of some copper rod I had laying around from a past project and drove it down to the pcb during the melt. Bypassed the rear spring with pure copper braid, soldered directly to the spring and board in a crossed overlapped fashion, it looks like Crap, I kept fighting that damn strong ass Magnet, kept attaching itself to my Iron!

A 30T @ 4.21v off the charger, I got 6,230lm at turn on….and the head is still stock XP-L HI V3 1A. I’ll run it for a few days… see if it lasts…. I have a third D4$ coming that I’m keeping stock… :wink: I mean it!

OH I SLIGHTLY Dented my 30T in the process, :person_facepalming: forgot to put the copper tail cap spacer in :rage:

Damn, you guys want overkill.

6000 lumens at turn on… that is BLF Q8 levels of brightness.

I do wonder if it is possible to reach 7000 lumens, although that would be at the absolute max of these emitters and would probably the highest flux density light in the world.

Congratulations! You’re having fun now!!
I too forgot to CD before flashing.

replace leds with XP-L2 and there you go 7-8000 lumens

Working on 7000+ Blue, should be there sometime Friday… :wink:

Haven’t even bypassed springs yet… lol

Edit: Up to 6503.25 lumens at start now. :smiley:

Same 80 CRI 5000K Samsung LH351D’s, I pulled the driver spring and make a shallow solder blob on the driver and then put one of my large Blue springs in the tail cap with a 20ga bypass. This is with the LG HG6 20650 cell, rested and partially used. :wink:

I have 25 of the LH351D coming Friday in a W power bin, 2 bins up from what I have in it now. :wink:

What is the part number and parameters of that LH351D? CRI, color temp ? I haven’t tried Samsung leds yet.

I have 80 CRI 5000K Samsungs in my D4S at the moment. The new ones coming in, the W bin, those are 70 CRI 5700K. I think they’ve been testing up around 2000 lumens or more, similar to the XP-L2, but with a better beam profile.

Look for em at DigiKey, they have had a good selection here… you just might get lucky. :slight_smile: (They’re only a couple bucks each, so the price is right as well)

Edit: There are 90 CRI offerings too, albeit at a lower power bin.

Where do you buy them? Do you see any green tint?

If you dont like a 6500 lumen, i will buy it. Lol

It’s not so much a matter of like or not like, it’s a matter of I mod to see what can be achieved, where can this one go, ya know? After this one, it’ll be another one. And so it goes… which is why I have over 200 lights.

I’ve wondered before if it would be feasible to put a sense resistor between the FET and the emitter lead, to tone one down to reasonable after finding out how much of a monster it can be. Sometimes I just like a light, but full monster can be too much so it can be necessary to back em off. Anduril helps there as the ceiling can be set to a reasonable level and the double click reserved for Monster duty. :wink:

I’ve only tried one light with LH351D (80CRI 5000K), and it turned out disappointingly green. The only light I’ve had which was more green was one which used dedomed emitters. I may have just gotten unlucky though, because others report results much closer to white.

So I’m tempted to get some minus green filter material and put it on the lens.

I’ve used 30 of the LH351D in 80 CRI 5000K and none of them have shown green. Too warm for me maybe but no green. I have them in the D4S, I have them in an X6 with the D4S quad board and optic, and again in a copper light also using the quad board and optic. Also in my Titanium D4. Also in my EDC Custom made Ti/Cu quad with Carclo 10507 optic.

I do not like a green tint to show, have used Lee filter film to eliminate green on multiple occasions, but I’m just not seeing it on these at all.

To have taken apart my custom made Ti EDC and replaced emitters with these says a lot, simply wouldn’t have done it if there was any issue. What did surprise me is how nice the beam profile is out of the Carclo quad optic, a big round hot spot with very few artifacts, very pleasing indeed.

That’s not to say that the 25 that are on the way here now will be just as pleasing, of course I hope they are but this is all the experience I have with Samsung emitters so it could be a gamble, just don’t know. I’ve used 31 and have 50 coming Friday, so I should be getting a better feel for Samsung emitters pretty soon. :wink:

I love my d4s 5000k. It’s just get brighter everyday… I rarely use turbo, and I set it to stepped mode 7 which is about 2000 lumen… 2000 lumen is crazy bright. This light is super cool.


upload pics

In a 10507 triple optic, my LH351D emitters look like this:

This used automatic white balance, so some green has already been filtered out. In person, it looks warmer and greener.

Much of the unwanted tint goes into the corona, which makes the hotspot look a little better in contrast. But next to other lights, even the hotspot doesn’t have a very nice tint.

Ah, I see. When you search for micro-organisms on your walls the green tint is obtrusive. I don’t do that kind of test so I haven’t noticed how many of my lights show a similar issue, whether in green or blue or purple or whatever. I would assume most of them show something in the off beam, probably part of what the dome imparts. The phosphor is yellow, the natural tint of the emitter is blue, Ziploc teaches me that yellow and blue makes green. :wink: lol

Looking at dozens of my lights in this way, with everything from Nichia to XP-L to HI to Samsung emitters, they all have this to some degree… some worse than others. Well, my Green D4 is worse by far of course. (Green XP-E2’s). But seriously, every light I check displays this in varying degree, from TIR lights to multi-emitter lights, my D1 and D1S, every light I check. Even the Nitecore TM16 with 4 XHP-35 HI emitters. My DBC-07 with XHP-35 HD is horrid in the big 124mm reflector. (when checked against a white AC unit cover panel)

Even my 5 year old Solarforce S2200 with MT-G2. Even my Texas Poker with High CRI Nichia 219C at 5000K.

So it would appear that any tint in the white or higher (cool white) tint is going to show this to some degree. Probably the only way to avoid it is to use warm white emitters that have the orange colored phosphor on the die. And those are too orange/brown for my liking, so I personally wouldn’t use anything like that. (they get thrown in the trash immediately over here)