Emisar D4S review

If you dont like a 6500 lumen, i will buy it. Lol

It’s not so much a matter of like or not like, it’s a matter of I mod to see what can be achieved, where can this one go, ya know? After this one, it’ll be another one. And so it goes… which is why I have over 200 lights.

I’ve wondered before if it would be feasible to put a sense resistor between the FET and the emitter lead, to tone one down to reasonable after finding out how much of a monster it can be. Sometimes I just like a light, but full monster can be too much so it can be necessary to back em off. Anduril helps there as the ceiling can be set to a reasonable level and the double click reserved for Monster duty. :wink:

I’ve only tried one light with LH351D (80CRI 5000K), and it turned out disappointingly green. The only light I’ve had which was more green was one which used dedomed emitters. I may have just gotten unlucky though, because others report results much closer to white.

So I’m tempted to get some minus green filter material and put it on the lens.

I’ve used 30 of the LH351D in 80 CRI 5000K and none of them have shown green. Too warm for me maybe but no green. I have them in the D4S, I have them in an X6 with the D4S quad board and optic, and again in a copper light also using the quad board and optic. Also in my Titanium D4. Also in my EDC Custom made Ti/Cu quad with Carclo 10507 optic.

I do not like a green tint to show, have used Lee filter film to eliminate green on multiple occasions, but I’m just not seeing it on these at all.

To have taken apart my custom made Ti EDC and replaced emitters with these says a lot, simply wouldn’t have done it if there was any issue. What did surprise me is how nice the beam profile is out of the Carclo quad optic, a big round hot spot with very few artifacts, very pleasing indeed.

That’s not to say that the 25 that are on the way here now will be just as pleasing, of course I hope they are but this is all the experience I have with Samsung emitters so it could be a gamble, just don’t know. I’ve used 31 and have 50 coming Friday, so I should be getting a better feel for Samsung emitters pretty soon. :wink:

I love my d4s 5000k. It’s just get brighter everyday… I rarely use turbo, and I set it to stepped mode 7 which is about 2000 lumen… 2000 lumen is crazy bright. This light is super cool.


upload pics

In a 10507 triple optic, my LH351D emitters look like this:

This used automatic white balance, so some green has already been filtered out. In person, it looks warmer and greener.

Much of the unwanted tint goes into the corona, which makes the hotspot look a little better in contrast. But next to other lights, even the hotspot doesn’t have a very nice tint.

Ah, I see. When you search for micro-organisms on your walls the green tint is obtrusive. I don’t do that kind of test so I haven’t noticed how many of my lights show a similar issue, whether in green or blue or purple or whatever. I would assume most of them show something in the off beam, probably part of what the dome imparts. The phosphor is yellow, the natural tint of the emitter is blue, Ziploc teaches me that yellow and blue makes green. :wink: lol

Looking at dozens of my lights in this way, with everything from Nichia to XP-L to HI to Samsung emitters, they all have this to some degree… some worse than others. Well, my Green D4 is worse by far of course. (Green XP-E2’s). But seriously, every light I check displays this in varying degree, from TIR lights to multi-emitter lights, my D1 and D1S, every light I check. Even the Nitecore TM16 with 4 XHP-35 HI emitters. My DBC-07 with XHP-35 HD is horrid in the big 124mm reflector. (when checked against a white AC unit cover panel)

Even my 5 year old Solarforce S2200 with MT-G2. Even my Texas Poker with High CRI Nichia 219C at 5000K.

So it would appear that any tint in the white or higher (cool white) tint is going to show this to some degree. Probably the only way to avoid it is to use warm white emitters that have the orange colored phosphor on the die. And those are too orange/brown for my liking, so I personally wouldn’t use anything like that. (they get thrown in the trash immediately over here)

Why do so few people choose the version from XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K? It is cheaper, has a good beam focus and hue. I have these LEDs in the M43 meteor and I really like them. In Emisar D4 it has a different shade using the same LEDs. I do not know what it is caused. Maybe a different party or optician. To me too much yellow. You can see it on my BBL chart. I wonder how it is in D4s. If I was sure that it would be like in M43, I would buy it without hesitation, but I’m afraid that it will be like in D4.

Hmmm, took shots with my Canon 1DsMkII and Hybrid Image Stabilized 100mm Macro lens, not seeing that green hue… perhaps it’s something the Carclo optic imparts? The D4S uses a Ledil Angie. The separation of tints from the Ledil optic is quite different. There may be some off color very near the hot spot that isn’t showing the same, need to change settings on my camera and try again in JPEG instead of RAW so it’s a straight out of camera look at it….

Edit: My Emisar D4S with Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K U6 emitters as presented by Ledil’s Angie Optic.

The AC Unit’s cover panel is appliance white. These are both SOOC JPEGs as processed by the 1DsMkII’s processing engine and it’s full frame sensor. The Anduril firmware is on at the 100% 7135 level.

komeko, I DID get the XP-G2 S4 3D in my D4S. And it did look pretty good. Underpowered for me, of course, but the look of it was nice.

Edit: Remember that the D4 uses Carclo optics with an 8.9mm TIR while the D4S uses Ledil optics with an 13.7mm TIR. Different manufacturer of optic, different material, different TIR design all around.

I have older XM-L2 emitters that have been gas de-domed if you want to talk about ugly green hue… :wink:

Using Photoshop, selecting the “green hue” area of the picture, it is listed as Pantone color number 7538C which is between bronze and grey.

So many unknowns: D
It’s best if some user had both (XP-G2 and XP-L) and showed them side by side on a white background.

And in D4, I would like to change the optics that can change my color and beam a bit.

True that, komeko. But where are the “white” emitters? Your color chart, see the white border? Can that be found inside the color chart? Or as light transmission from an emitter? That’s what I’d like to see, just white, pure white, no tint one way or another.

All my flashlights that are on the BBL line are great for me. Of course, most of it is my mod (XP-L HI U6 3A, MT-G2 and unmodified M43 with XP-G2)

The same under BBL is acceptable to me. I do not like outlining lights much above BBL.

Hello,

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but can someone tell me what lockout LED modes are available when you triple click while in lockout? Just so I fully understand them.
Im referring to the “next lockout LED mode” section of the V3 UI chart in post 1. Thanks in advance! :slight_smile:

off, dim, high, blink

Excellent, thanks!

Edit: I realize now, that they’re the same options the Aux LEDs have while off. :person_facepalming: Makes sense.

I did choose xpg2 s4 3d 4885k… its on the way…

Oooo, I’m waiting for the photos of the beam