Thanks Maukka, Im always interested to see your reviews. This one would have been the perfect 219b replacement if the tint bin was below tbe bbl.
I tried dedoming (chemical way) two of this leds, it did not go well 
Any thoughts on how these would compare to the stock emitter options in a D4s? I have the Nicha version, but I’d like either more throw, more output, or some combination of both. It doesn’t seem like these would give me much, if any more output than the Nichia and the XP-G2, but are they more intense than the Nichia? They are certainly higher CRI than the XP-G2s.
The difference in performance with a 219C R9050 will not be great. The CRI is better though, comparable to a N. R9080, which is not available in 219C, only in the lower performing 219B.
What did you use?
I intend to try when my 5000k come in from Kaidomain. I ordered 10 and I’m willing to waste some to see if it’s possible with Aerosolve II. If that doesn’t work I have some other solvents. I really want to see what this little guy can throw at 5 amps.
The problem with dedoming SST40s is the long/weak bond wires. The silicone separated nicely from the phosphor (using warm gas) but the silicone remains stiff and it pulls the bond wires out. I assume the SST20 has the same problem. Maybe a more effective solvent would improve the success rate.
Here are some Skylumen numbers for comparison
Thanks. By performance, do you mean overall output, or also intensity? I was just trying to compare two different S2+ I’ve modded with these emitters, and it looks to me like the area of the SST-20’s LES is somewhere between 25-50% that of the 219c. So, with similar outputs, the SST-20 should have higher intensity.
Thanks. That’s interesting. I’d guess the Samsung High CRI is the LH351D. These are with the stock driver? Which is a FET?
I wonder how 2x 5K SST-20 + 2x 3000K SST-20 High CRI would look…
^ By performance I was referring to output, efficiency and current handling, but you have a valid point that I did not consider yet, the SST-20 indeed seems to have a bit smaller die than the 219 (and XP-G2), so a bit higher intensity and better behaviour in small Carclo optics.
^ Thanks for clarifying.
I have some of the 4K coming. I’m still on the fence on whether to upgrade my D4s with LH351D for more output, or perhaps these for less flood.
Awesome. :+1:
Hope they will dedome well enough.
Has anyone tried using silicone oil to dedome?
Sorry Jerommel, just now saw your question.
I am using Petrol( a.k.a benzin), A98 EU standard, very pure stuff, sold only in drugstores. Heated to about 45-50 dgrs.C
I can show you XML2 led dedomed with this stuff, it look like dome was never put on 
Same here, and i used pure Toluene at some 125°C…
First i sliced / shaved the dome off, then in hot Toluene for like 12 hours total.
The remaining silicone was swollen some 20% and detached from the phosphor, but the bond wires were still stuck in there, so they broke…
So it’s even harder to dedome chemically than the SST-40.
Bummer… 
1 Thank
Maybe just razor blade dedoming with a drilled shim? Did this to an XHP50A from multiple angles and while the flattened dome doesn't looks absolutely flat, the batsignal looks quite symmetric in zoomie flashlights, this must mean it's goodenough, I believe. This also makes sure you don't mess with the phosphors at all, something which could ruin the CRI and tint. Do not fine grit sand the dome after shaving, in my experience this ruins the bond wires.
Cheers 
It’s a little off topic, because i’m trying to dedome the CRI 70 5000K version, hoping to get an ‘XP-G2 killer’ LED.
So CRI and tint doesn’t really matter.
All that matters in this case is dome removal.
Yeah, i think we’ll have to settle for shaving. But the bond wires limit how close you can shave.
You do want to get as close to the die surface as possible. If you are good with a razor you can slice below the level of the bond wires for most of die while leaving the area around the bond wires thicker. It ends up looking a little like in this thread .
Hmm… I seriously wonder if replacing the bond wires is easier…
What's your experience dedoming XHP50As in hot fuel/white spirit? Does it mess with the phosphors?
Cheers :-)