My calibrated TA tube measurement for Nichia 219b version is 4740lm @ 0 sec, 4300lm 30 sec. with VTC6 4.2V Similar test result with either VTC5A or GA.
I took time redo calibration for my TA tube. Now, my 219B ROT66 with 30Q’s measures 4440 lumen at 0 second, 3910 lumen at 30 seconds.
I just want to say that Jacky of Enogear/Fireflies did just reply to my email and sent me my replacement Enogear AA stainless steel and sent me a free stainless steel 14500 usb rechargeable light. Therefore I will definitely buy more of the ROT66 soon.
The MF01 219C v1 (6 wires) is more one the rosy side than the MF01 219C v2 (2 wires) that is more on the yellow/green side. If I remember well, charles lin’s MF01 is a v1, both of yours are probably v2.
If the aux led board was offered with more emitter color choices, it would be a certain hit. Many people didn’t like that Emisar only offered the cyan ones. This would have been a opportunity to set your stuff apart.
I’m ocd and it kinda bugs me that the emitters on the side switch aren’t the same color of blue as the gitd strip. Aux LEDs could alleviate that I guess but I like the subtle glow and color of the gitd strip.
Talking about tiny amber smd leds, has anyone found a version yet that is a phosfor-converted amber? (so more efficient than direct amber leds) I have several PC-amber leds in powerled version but have not seen them in tiny format.
Good question. If not though, I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
I think there’s a good chance of Anduril or something Anduril-like on a Fireflies light, since they’re looking for something like NarsilM but simpler.
I’ve got it running on a ROT66, as of about an hour ago, but I’m not done calibrating things yet. Gotta get the ramp shape fixed and the voltage calibrated, etc.
However, with a 3-channel driver and a switch LED, Anduril compiles just a few bytes too big to fit when I have all the options enabled. So for now I turned off the option for a blinking switch LED. It’s a little awkward anyway, with the arrangement of two always-on LEDs and two which can turn off.
Long-term though, I hope I can reduce the base code size a little bit so it’ll fit.
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you didn’t add a special circuit to the D4S driver or something. I don’t follow that thread so I’m not sure. (It’s growing too fast)