Ah, I see. When you search for micro-organisms on your walls the green tint is obtrusive. I don’t do that kind of test so I haven’t noticed how many of my lights show a similar issue, whether in green or blue or purple or whatever. I would assume most of them show something in the off beam, probably part of what the dome imparts. The phosphor is yellow, the natural tint of the emitter is blue, Ziploc teaches me that yellow and blue makes green. lol
Looking at dozens of my lights in this way, with everything from Nichia to XP-L to HI to Samsung emitters, they all have this to some degree… some worse than others. Well, my Green D4 is worse by far of course. (Green XP-E2’s). But seriously, every light I check displays this in varying degree, from TIR lights to multi-emitter lights, my D1 and D1S, every light I check. Even the Nitecore TM16 with 4 XHP-35 HI emitters. My DBC-07 with XHP-35 HD is horrid in the big 124mm reflector. (when checked against a white AC unit cover panel)
Even my 5 year old Solarforce S2200 with MT-G2. Even my Texas Poker with High CRI Nichia 219C at 5000K.
So it would appear that any tint in the white or higher (cool white) tint is going to show this to some degree. Probably the only way to avoid it is to use warm white emitters that have the orange colored phosphor on the die. And those are too orange/brown for my liking, so I personally wouldn’t use anything like that. (they get thrown in the trash immediately over here)
Why do so few people choose the version from XP-G2 S4 3D, 4885K? It is cheaper, has a good beam focus and hue. I have these LEDs in the M43 meteor and I really like them. In Emisar D4 it has a different shade using the same LEDs. I do not know what it is caused. Maybe a different party or optician. To me too much yellow. You can see it on my BBL chart. I wonder how it is in D4s. If I was sure that it would be like in M43, I would buy it without hesitation, but I’m afraid that it will be like in D4.
Hmmm, took shots with my Canon 1DsMkII and Hybrid Image Stabilized 100mm Macro lens, not seeing that green hue… perhaps it’s something the Carclo optic imparts? The D4S uses a Ledil Angie. The separation of tints from the Ledil optic is quite different. There may be some off color very near the hot spot that isn’t showing the same, need to change settings on my camera and try again in JPEG instead of RAW so it’s a straight out of camera look at it….
Edit: My Emisar D4S with Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K U6 emitters as presented by Ledil’s Angie Optic.
The AC Unit’s cover panel is appliance white. These are both SOOC JPEGs as processed by the 1DsMkII’s processing engine and it’s full frame sensor. The Anduril firmware is on at the 100% 7135 level.
komeko, I DID get the XP-G2 S4 3D in my D4S. And it did look pretty good. Underpowered for me, of course, but the look of it was nice.
Edit: Remember that the D4 uses Carclo optics with an 8.9mm TIR while the D4S uses Ledil optics with an 13.7mm TIR. Different manufacturer of optic, different material, different TIR design all around.
True that, komeko. But where are the “white” emitters? Your color chart, see the white border? Can that be found inside the color chart? Or as light transmission from an emitter? That’s what I’d like to see, just white, pure white, no tint one way or another.
Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but can someone tell me what lockout LED modes are available when you triple click while in lockout? Just so I fully understand them.
Im referring to the “next lockout LED mode” section of the V3 UI chart in post 1. Thanks in advance!
Yes, it is. And it only shows up in the 10507 optic. The beam is very smooth and consistent with the 10511 optic. However, with the green parts blended in with the rest of the 10511 beam, the entire thing looks green instead of just the corona.
I haven’t tried a polished 10511 optic yet. It might improve throw without creating a green ring… or it might not.
Just got my gray D4S, XPL Hi in the mail. Emisar (Hank) sure does know how to make a fantastic light! :heart_eyes: The Aux LED’s are so cool! The tailcap magnet is surprisingly strong; I’m glad I got the extra tail cap without the magnet. I really like the recessed button too. Makes it very easy to find.
Kuddos to everyone involved, especially ToyKeeper :+1:
I will say my only very small… nuance I noticed is the time it takes the light to turn off when clicked. I remember reading someone else mention it earlier. I guess there is a way to rewrite the UI code to change it, but is there any to do this through the UI alone? I don’t have a way to flash the driver yet so I was just curious. All in all, it’s not a problem… I wouldn’t even notice if I didn’t carry around my mini D4 around all day
HOT! This little thing is fantastic, but holy hot hand grenade! I ordered the Nichia version, and everything I read about them getting a little warmish is definitely true. Love the UI, the aux LED’s are pretty cool, and the magnet is impressive.
But I need to get some oven mitts. Oh well, a small price to pay for getting everything else in this nice of a package.
Getting around 2600-2700 lumens at 30 seconds with a couple of different batteries, so it seems plenty bright. Glad the days are getting shorter so it’ll be dark soon and I can try her out tonight.
lol
