Hmmm, you must be pushing at least 8000 raw lumens, probably even 8400 lumens at start up.
What kind of cell are you using? Is it the darn Samsung 30T again?
You must be pushing easily 25A+, or about 28A. Are you using 18AWG spring bypass+direct brass contacts to the driver? That is one dope ass build.
If you can get 7300 lumens out of a single 21700 cell with 4xLH351Ds, I wonder what kind of brightness you could get with 4x18650s out of the Q8.
With W6 bin LEDs, maybe you could get close to 10k lumens out of the Q8 with BeCu springs, 18AWG wire bypasses, a pure copper tailcap, an AR lens, etc. Maybe just maybe, it is possible without resorting to barf tint fest XPL2s.
16’ from the fireplace, the room is semi dark but heck it’s 2:30 in the afternoon! lol
Moon, showing only in the glass face of the clock…
100% 7135 chip
Turbo
Taken with my i8 with an app running, essentially Aperture priority.
Edit: Here’s the specs on the above pics…
Moon used an aperture of f/1.8, with 1/4 second exposure and ISO 500.
Med used an aperture of f/1.8, with 1/7 second exposure and ISO 80.
Turbo used and aperture of f/1.8, with a 1/30 second exposure and ISO 32.
Holy crap. That is some mad stuff. I would be scared to hold that power density in my hands.
In relation to this, story time!
As a few of you know, I have an MT09R. I had a brilliant idea of bringing the MT09R on a trip in my bag, along with a 20Ah USB battery pack. Note: I had not locked out the light. This is stupid.
When I was walking , I tripped, and fell down backwards. I was not hurt, but something was still wrong. I walked for about 30 seconds, until I noticed some massive smoke coming from the backpack.
IT WAS ON FIRE. I then remember I had a lithium ion battery pack inside of the backpack! I then quickly took it out, and killed the fire with water and a damp microfiber cloth. The smoke residue is still on the MT09R’s lens, as it is very hard to remove 100. I’m probably at 95 cleaned, but there is still some smoke on it. Luckily, the battery pack was just a bit warm, and nothing had blown.
TLDR: Always lock out your monster lights. Otherwise, bad things will happen because of Murphy’s law.
Just be sure to warn people not to look directly at the light. It can give a false sense of safety when it’s rumbling along at a low level between big flashes.
Been doing some testing, here’s what I’ve learned. The MOSFET Hank chose actually outperforms a Vishay-Dale SIR404DP. Also, 20ga Teflon coated wires meet or exceed 18ga Turnigy silicone coated wires. The 20ga Teflon wires are actually easier to install so they are probably the way to go with the caveat that you must be more careful as they are very stiff and can rip pads off the driver if you don’t do your part.
So, around 7300 lumens is the ceiling for the LG HG6 20650 cell. (Normally $11.00, they’re $6.97 as of now) This is a good thing though, as this cell was on sale at IMR Batteries for some $6 each recently.
I used a 7/8” round rasp file to cut down the ridges (4 of them) inside a clear plastic 26500-18650 spacer, this allows easy use of the 20650 cell and prevents ratting around.
Ceiling really needs to be set lower for the monster set-up, it will get hot faster than the temperature step-down can sense it. I have it at 27 steps below top (I think) and it makes 2535.75 lumens at this ceiling on the ramp. The 100% 7135 chip level is 507 lumens.
Color on this W6 Samsung emitter is quite pleasant, like it a lot.
First of all, your state machine firmware is exemplary. I will be studying it to improve my own microcontroller projects. Thank you.
Second, if you are looking for UI improvements, I would like to suggest to you that you look into the notion of intents. That is, a click has a different meaning depending on what has happened previously. This might be a simple addition to a state machine.
Recently a user asked about the delay time in turning off the light. The FSM does not know that the user wants to turn off the light, so there is a delay while it waits for future button presses. I suggest that there could be some sort of other “input” timer. If the user has not input something in X seconds, then the next input is interpreted differently. Similar to how the up/down ramp functionality works.
Maybe if the light has been on continuously for >120 seconds, the next press could dim the light to 0 (off) after the first press but if the button is pressed again, then it moves to other functions. I hope I have been clear enough for others to understand.