Blue, it’s the LG HG6 20650 cell, solder bump on the driver and your large spring with a 20ga bypass in the tail. 20Ga Teflon leads. 
The 30T will do 7624.5 lumens at 23.1A tail. This is using a 12ga solid wire to bridge the battery to tube, not assembled.
Oh, and these ARE W6 binned 5000K emitters, got em today and swapped em into my D4S within the hour. 
Oh, yeah, just remembered, think about this… Anduril’s lightning mode with 7300 lumens!
Holy crap. That is some mad stuff. I would be scared to hold that power density in my hands.
In relation to this, story time!
As a few of you know, I have an MT09R. I had a brilliant idea of bringing the MT09R on a trip in my bag, along with a 20Ah USB battery pack. Note: I had not locked out the light. This is stupid.
When I was walking , I tripped, and fell down backwards. I was not hurt, but something was still wrong. I walked for about 30 seconds, until I noticed some massive smoke coming from the backpack.
IT WAS ON FIRE. I then remember I had a lithium ion battery pack inside of the backpack! I then quickly took it out, and killed the fire with water and a damp microfiber cloth. The smoke residue is still on the MT09R’s lens, as it is very hard to remove 100. I’m probably at 95 cleaned, but there is still some smoke on it. Luckily, the battery pack was just a bit warm, and nothing had blown.
TLDR: Always lock out your monster lights. Otherwise, bad things will happen because of Murphy’s law.
That sounds fun. 
Just be sure to warn people not to look directly at the light. It can give a false sense of safety when it’s rumbling along at a low level between big flashes.
Can barely even tell there’s a sun outside. You made it bright enough to overpower the daylight.
“Brighter than the Sun” … a new D4S tag line.
Been doing some testing, here’s what I’ve learned. The MOSFET Hank chose actually outperforms a Vishay-Dale SIR404DP. Also, 20ga Teflon coated wires meet or exceed 18ga Turnigy silicone coated wires. The 20ga Teflon wires are actually easier to install so they are probably the way to go with the caveat that you must be more careful as they are very stiff and can rip pads off the driver if you don’t do your part.
So, around 7300 lumens is the ceiling for the LG HG6 20650 cell. (Normally $11.00, they’re $6.97 as of now) This is a good thing though, as this cell was on sale at IMR Batteries for some $6 each recently.
I used a 7/8” round rasp file to cut down the ridges (4 of them) inside a clear plastic 26500-18650 spacer, this allows easy use of the 20650 cell and prevents ratting around.
Ceiling really needs to be set lower for the monster set-up, it will get hot faster than the temperature step-down can sense it. I have it at 27 steps below top (I think) and it makes 2535.75 lumens at this ceiling on the ramp. The 100% 7135 chip level is 507 lumens.
Color on this W6 Samsung emitter is quite pleasant, like it a lot.
Toykeeper:
First of all, your state machine firmware is exemplary. I will be studying it to improve my own microcontroller projects. Thank you.
Second, if you are looking for UI improvements, I would like to suggest to you that you look into the notion of intents. That is, a click has a different meaning depending on what has happened previously. This might be a simple addition to a state machine.
Recently a user asked about the delay time in turning off the light. The FSM does not know that the user wants to turn off the light, so there is a delay while it waits for future button presses. I suggest that there could be some sort of other “input” timer. If the user has not input something in X seconds, then the next input is interpreted differently. Similar to how the up/down ramp functionality works.
Maybe if the light has been on continuously for >120 seconds, the next press could dim the light to 0 (off) after the first press but if the button is pressed again, then it moves to other functions. I hope I have been clear enough for others to understand.
Ok wut?!
I’d like to know where he got it so I can order 10pcs.
Also, how could 20AWG Teflon wire be actually more conductive than 18AWG silicone wire? How does it work? The copper strands are not only larger, unless using less strands means a lower risk of strands coming off and upping resistance?
Neat stuff
And yeah, we are limited by storage capacity of the MCU. Unless you want to strap on a bare NAND package, if you actually could 
lowprofile, keep in mind that there are capacity limitations in the MCU. Some things might be good ideas, implementing them in the avialable space can be the real trick.
Edit: ToyKeeper is truly exceptional in weighing the requirements of the community, if 4000 lights are selling, how many would want idea 1 or idea 2? Just because some think it’s critical to have something implemented they may be a scarce minority in the overall big picture. It becomes truly difficult to average out the requests and audible needs (those that have specifically had something in mind) and it can be quite taxing figuring out just what will make a light epic vs what will kill the sales.
We’re a rather manic bunch, it would seem.
DB Custom: what is the Hank’s FET? Maybe the Lexel’s one would be even better?
There are also 2 efficiency tricks that I haven’t seen tried (and measured):
Pretty sure Lexel recommended the FET Hank used. Infineon I believe it is. It’s not very much better than the 404 but it is slightly more output, only about 200 total lumens but hey, when you’re chasing em you chase ALL of em!
Optical adhesive, tricky stuff that. How are you going to set it? The lens blocks UV, the optic material blocks UV, can’t get UV light deep enough between the two to set the adhesive…
Paint the interior of the head with what, oven paint? Mine gets HOT! (got some 80 Watts going in this smallish light)
Each state gets an argument passed where you get the count how long (ticks) you are in this state.
I think you are free to add it with a new compiler switch and upload the changes for TK to merge into Anduril.
What options are there to increase storage capacity?
There are adhesives that don’t need UV curing.
This one is easy. Heater paint.
Use another microcontroller.
But there are a few problems with that:
- The Attiny85 is the biggest SOIC-8 ATtiny
- Small size
- Hand-solderable for DIY (so certainly no BGA and probably no QFN)
I did a short search for matching ARM processors, but I couldn’t find a good and cheap replacement. Biggest hurdle is the package as there are small MCUs but they are made for industrial soldering processes or just hard to do at home (QFN, BGA, WLCSP, …)
I’m not criticizing or even trying to imply I know more, just trying to suggest something from the way I see it… I have limited experience in C/C and I know what a finite state machine is because I’ve wanted to create one for ages. I am not a programmer, just a programmer admirer.
I just had this idea that the flashlight might be able to figure out if the user intends to turn it off or to change the brightness based on simply considering how long it’s been since the button has been pressed (>5 seconds kind of thing). I wasn’t trying to say that anything wasn’t good enough. Sorry if I offended anyone.
Short vid taken with my D4S in Anduril’s lightnimg mode.
It is also the same FET that’s used in the GT Mini BSC009NE2LS
I believe DEL actually found the Hyperon/Infineon MOSFET, according to the PM’s I got from TomE back in 9/1/17. At that time Lexel was using the (edit) SIR800.(not SIR404)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bsc009ne2ls5atma1/infineon-technologies-ag
I’m not sure how many people here are into photography, but with those settings you either have a very good camera or a very bright light.