Nice mod djozz. I have no idea where you get the patience from.

DB Custom wrote:

Always a good idea to number the cells and date them, so you can keep track of the characteristics and see if some rotation helps keep em balanced. I also like to write the IR on them from the first charge to be able to see if they are degrading over time and hard use.

Thanks, I didn’t think to do that. Now I have several sets of 30Q’s, I will do this soon, i still have them separate, but not with their new characteristics.

That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one!

Today I built an Eagle eye X6 triple with Osram oslon square 4000K 96 CRI leds and BLF A17DD driver and a copper spacer from kiriba-ru.

DB Custom wrote:

That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one!

Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green

ZozzV6 wrote:

Today I built an Eagle eye X6 triple with Osram oslon square 4000K 96 CRI leds and BLF A17DD driver and a copper spacer from kiriba-ru.

My Astrolux A01 quit working almost 2 years ago, and I had spare parts laying around from the v1.0 of my Booster Tails. So what to do? Create a basic boost driver for it! No MCU, no modes, no PWM… just nice, consistent output. It can technically handle a 10440 as well (input: 0.7 – 5.5 V), but I don’t see a need for that.

My 7yo needed a simple light for reading at night, so I dialed it down to ~6.7mA to the 219B for 3 lumens. I think that may even be too bright.

Nice one gchart! I will have to read into your booster tails, they are nice.

Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!

gchart wrote:

Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!

Can I be your son for a week or so gchart?

Aren’t we all family already? One, big happy BLF family

Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.

So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.

Emisar D4 lighted switch mod again. I used a piece of 12mm x 1mm carbon fibre tube, 10mm x 1mm clear acrylic tube, 0.5mm clear silicone sheet and 0.5mm black kydex for a green lighted glow circle around the switch button.

CRX, your mods never fail to impress

Thanks mate

Nitecore NU20

Dude, are you sure you don’t have a wand or something?

I have been called a wizard before

Hmmm, I’ve got enough Scottish ancestry to be able to wear a kilt, need to get me one and see if it influences my creative juices…

Nice work, again, always enjoy seeing what you’re up to and it’s always a surprise. lol

Thanks. The creative juices aren’t in the kilt, it’s in the haggis.

djozz wrote:

Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.

So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.

Your bypass soldering looks great to me. I wouldn’t have the guts to have tried what you did on an already awesome flashlight.

Generation 0 Sinner custom hosts switch went bad a few years ago. The 10A Judco is no longer available (highest latchng switch rating they make now is 5A @ 14v and the base is physically larger). After conversing with Sulman as well as parts suppliers I knew what had to be done…

5A Judco modified to have a 20×20mm square base. Black delrin ring is just spring support, not a PCB. It looks rickety but this is actually as-designed originally (switch fits&functions as Sulmans original 10A did)

We can rebuilt him, make his brighter, stronger, throwier.

I’m excited, the light broke ~2015/2016!

For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.

Convoy C8 with C8TT head, CUTE-4-SS optics,4x Luxeon V 4000K, 24Amp LD-B4 driver and subZero FET switch:

Ceiling bounce lux shows similar numbers to C8 with anna optics and 6x LH351D 90CRI, so it should be around 6000-6500lm,battery cell was VTC5A.

Tint is great, no green,beam is very smooth without coronas, only SS bezel creates some artifacts.

Despite the large fins, head still heats up very quickly because of large power (~100Watts with fresh battery).

But it cools down considerably faster than C8 with alu spacer and similar total weight.

I'm sure at more sane power levels (~10Amps) this head would be more beneficial, 100Watts is just too much for this size (except for short bursts) without active cooling.

With battery voltage of 3.8V (nearly 50% discharged) current on high was still pretty good, around 19Amps, thanks to the very low Vf of Luxeon V.

More info about head:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45343

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59573

DB Custom wrote:

For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.

There never was any retaining ring or anything. So apparently this was one of the first hosts that he built and it doesn’t use a retaining ring on the tail, only the physical stem of the switch held it in. When I first had the issue and spoke with him he said if this would have been a slightly newer, as he calls them “first generation body” that it would have been no problem to send me parts to convert it to a standard setup (mini Omten) or w/e I needed but because this was one of the first ones he ever made and it was so different that he couldn’t offer me anything except superseded part numbers.

Its not gonna be a super hot rod or anything so I expect this Judco to hold up better than the original.

His very first ones had a brass end piece that had a plastic retaining ring holding the switch in. One piece body with a brass bezel holding the lens onto the reflector. At any rate, glad to see you got it working.

2x LH351D’s, 1× 365nm UV

Have you considered sealing that with silicone?

Sealing what? The optic/reflector is behind an AR glass lens so it’s not open to air.