Always a good idea to number the cells and date them, so you can keep track of the characteristics and see if some rotation helps keep em balanced. I also like to write the IR on them from the first charge to be able to see if they are degrading over time and hard use.
Thanks, I didn’t think to do that. Now I have several sets of 30Q’s, I will do this soon, i still have them separate, but not with their new characteristics.
That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one!
Thanks Dale (and Steve) The someone is actually my mother in law, it is her birthday sunday. She is an artistic therapist and does not get good daylight in her studio in the cellar of the house. This is solved by some daylight fluorescent tubes but it comes in handy at times to have some floody instant real daylight to check colours.
Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green
My Astrolux A01 quit working almost 2 years ago, and I had spare parts laying around from the v1.0 of my Booster Tails. So what to do? Create a basic boost driver for it! No MCU, no modes, no PWM… just nice, consistent output. It can technically handle a 10440 as well (input: 0.7 – 5.5 V), but I don’t see a need for that.
My 7yo needed a simple light for reading at night, so I dialed it down to ~6.7mA to the 219B for 3 lumens. I think that may even be too bright.
Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!
I think it is so nice that I’m going to repeat the mod for myself (hopefully making a less dirty board), maybe in 6500K Optisolis leds. Just ordered a new S9 with short tube for that.
Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.
So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.
Emisar D4 lighted switch mod again. I used a piece of 12mm x 1mm carbon fibre tube, 10mm x 1mm clear acrylic tube, 0.5mm clear silicone sheet and 0.5mm black kydex for a green lighted glow circle around the switch button.
Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.
So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.
Your bypass soldering looks great to me. I wouldn’t have the guts to have tried what you did on an already awesome flashlight.
—
I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.
Generation 0 Sinner custom hosts switch went bad a few years ago. The 10A Judco is no longer available (highest latchng switch rating they make now is 5A @ 14v and the base is physically larger). After conversing with Sulman as well as parts suppliers I knew what had to be done…
5A Judco modified to have a 20×20mm square base. Black delrin ring is just spring support, not a PCB. It looks rickety but this is actually as-designed originally (switch fits&functions as Sulmans original 10A did)
We can rebuilt him, make his brighter, stronger, throwier.
I’m excited, the light broke ~2015/2016!
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.
Convoy C8 with C8TT head, CUTE-4-SS optics,4x Luxeon V 4000K, 24Amp LD-B4 driver and subZero FET switch:
Ceiling bounce lux shows similar numbers to C8 with anna optics and 6x LH351D 90CRI, so it should be around 6000-6500lm,battery cell was VTC5A.
Tint is great, no green,beam is very smooth without coronas, only SS bezel creates some artifacts.
Despite the large fins, head still heats up very quickly because of large power (~100Watts with fresh battery).
But it cools down considerably faster than C8 with alu spacer and similar total weight.
I'm sure at more sane power levels (~10Amps) this head would be more beneficial, 100Watts is just too much for this size (except for short bursts) without active cooling.
With battery voltage of 3.8V (nearly 50% discharged) current on high was still pretty good, around 19Amps, thanks to the very low Vf of Luxeon V.
For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.
There never was any retaining ring or anything. So apparently this was one of the first hosts that he built and it doesn’t use a retaining ring on the tail, only the physical stem of the switch held it in. When I first had the issue and spoke with him he said if this would have been a slightly newer, as he calls them “first generation body” that it would have been no problem to send me parts to convert it to a standard setup (mini Omten) or w/e I needed but because this was one of the first ones he ever made and it was so different that he couldn’t offer me anything except superseded part numbers.
Its not gonna be a super hot rod or anything so I expect this Judco to hold up better than the original.
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
His very first ones had a brass end piece that had a plastic retaining ring holding the switch in. One piece body with a brass bezel holding the lens onto the reflector. At any rate, glad to see you got it working.
Nice mod djozz. I have no idea where you get the patience from.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Thanks, I didn’t think to do that. Now I have several sets of 30Q’s, I will do this soon, i still have them separate, but not with their new characteristics.
Water Cooled MT35 PLUS RE-MODDED---------MT35 Plus with SBT90.2 mod ( GT90 kit from Texas Ace )
7th annual BLF/O-L contest Haikelite MT07 upgraded--------8th annual BLF/O-L contest “SKELETON”
Water Cooled 20K lumen POT LID LIGHT------Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one!
Today I built an Eagle eye X6 triple with Osram oslon square 4000K 96 CRI leds and BLF A17DD driver and a copper spacer from kiriba-ru.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Thanks Dale (and Steve) The someone is actually my mother in law, it is her birthday sunday. She is an artistic therapist and does not get good daylight in her studio in the cellar of the house. This is solved by some daylight fluorescent tubes but it comes in handy at times to have some floody instant real daylight to check colours.
Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green
link to djozz tests
Talking about green, which generation Oslon Square were these, and how do you like the tint?
link to djozz tests
My Astrolux A01 quit working almost 2 years ago, and I had spare parts laying around from the v1.0 of my Booster Tails. So what to do? Create a basic boost driver for it! No MCU, no modes, no PWM… just nice, consistent output. It can technically handle a 10440 as well (input: 0.7 – 5.5 V), but I don’t see a need for that.
My 7yo needed a simple light for reading at night, so I dialed it down to ~6.7mA to the 219B for 3 lumens. I think that may even be too bright.
Nice one gchart! I will have to read into your booster tails, they are nice.
link to djozz tests
Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!
I think it is so nice that I’m going to repeat the mod for myself (hopefully making a less dirty board), maybe in 6500K Optisolis leds. Just ordered a new S9 with short tube for that.
link to djozz tests
Can I be your son for a week or so gchart?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Aren’t we all family already? One, big happy BLF family
Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.
So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.
link to djozz tests
Emisar D4 lighted switch mod again. I used a piece of 12mm x 1mm carbon fibre tube, 10mm x 1mm clear acrylic tube, 0.5mm clear silicone sheet and 0.5mm black kydex for a green lighted glow circle around the switch button.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
CRX, your mods never fail to impress
Thanks mate
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Nitecore NU20
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Dude, are you sure you don’t have a wand or something?
I have been called a wizard before
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Hmmm, I’ve got enough Scottish ancestry to be able to wear a kilt, need to get me one and see if it influences my creative juices…
Nice work, again, always enjoy seeing what you’re up to and it’s always a surprise. lol
Thanks. The creative juices aren’t in the kilt, it’s in the haggis.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Your bypass soldering looks great to me. I wouldn’t have the guts to have tried what you did on an already awesome flashlight.
I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.
Generation 0 Sinner custom hosts switch went bad a few years ago. The 10A Judco is no longer available (highest latchng switch rating they make now is 5A @ 14v and the base is physically larger). After conversing with Sulman as well as parts suppliers I knew what had to be done…
5A Judco modified to have a 20×20mm square base. Black delrin ring is just spring support, not a PCB. It looks rickety but this is actually as-designed originally (switch fits&functions as Sulmans original 10A did)
We can rebuilt him, make his brighter, stronger, throwier.
I’m excited, the light broke ~2015/2016!
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.
Convoy C8 with C8TT head, CUTE-4-SS optics,4x Luxeon V 4000K, 24Amp LD-B4 driver and subZero FET switch:
Ceiling bounce lux shows similar numbers to C8 with anna optics and 6x LH351D 90CRI, so it should be around 6000-6500lm,battery cell was VTC5A.
Tint is great, no green,beam is very smooth without coronas, only SS bezel creates some artifacts.
Despite the large fins, head still heats up very quickly because of large power (~100Watts with fresh battery).
But it cools down considerably faster than C8 with alu spacer and similar total weight.
I'm sure at more sane power levels (~10Amps) this head would be more beneficial, 100Watts is just too much for this size (except for short bursts) without active cooling.
With battery voltage of 3.8V (nearly 50% discharged) current on high was still pretty good, around 19Amps, thanks to the very low Vf of Luxeon V.
More info about head:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45343
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59573
led4power.com
There never was any retaining ring or anything. So apparently this was one of the first hosts that he built and it doesn’t use a retaining ring on the tail, only the physical stem of the switch held it in. When I first had the issue and spoke with him he said if this would have been a slightly newer, as he calls them “first generation body” that it would have been no problem to send me parts to convert it to a standard setup (mini Omten) or w/e I needed but because this was one of the first ones he ever made and it was so different that he couldn’t offer me anything except superseded part numbers.
Its not gonna be a super hot rod or anything so I expect this Judco to hold up better than the original.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
His very first ones had a brass end piece that had a plastic retaining ring holding the switch in. One piece body with a brass bezel holding the lens onto the reflector. At any rate, glad to see you got it working.
2x LH351D’s, 1× 365nm UV
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Have you considered sealing that with silicone?
Sealing what? The optic/reflector is behind an AR glass lens so it’s not open to air.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
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