To play Devil’s advocate TK, WHERE is the shade of white in your pictures? I see tinted beams, all around. No white to be found at all.
That makes sense d_t_a, because as far as I know there are only two positions in the ramp where there is no PWM in play, the 100% 7135 level and 100% FET level. With the Nichia 219C having such a low Vf and requiring a throttling to control heat the FET is not at 100% and so there is a slight PWM.
If you can check it immediately after installing the cell, it should come on at the 100% 7135 level, does it show PWM there?
I put 4 Nichia 219C in my Ti/Cu Reylight X6 with a FET+1 driver and it wanted to pull over 21A from a single 18650! It got hot so fast it was totally impractical, even if it did make over 4300 lumens. Ended up changing that. Not because of the heat, but because I’m at the point that 4000 lumens is simply insufficient. lol It now makes just over 10,000. And yes, heat is a big deal. 
“Big lights for cold nights!”
Cameras tend to exaggerate tint differences when multiple lights are shown at once, especially when underexposed (obviously TK did that on purpose).
Here is a shot I made with 4 lights, all varying CCTs and tints, but I post-processed it in lightroom so that I could show the tints as accurate to my eye. All lights in person are reasonably white, but there are subtle differences (white balance 5000k) Also keep in mind that they aren’t on their max outputs, so the ROT66 won’t be quite as rosy as it is when on its max output. On its lower outputs it’s very close to the BBL.
At 100% 7135 regulated level, no PWM detected for the D4 Nichia, so it seems to confirm that theory of the 80% (or not 100%) FET level while on Turbo mode.
Do you have x-y data so that I can see how close BBL is?
I’m just going off of Maukka’s review. On lower outputs it’s .0020 as opposed to the.0080 on max. Still on the rosy side, but tastefully so.
Trying not to look at the ROT66… don’t have the funds. Feel like I’m losing…
Okay, I could not stand it and I ordered D4s in XP-L HI. I have one 26650 in stock, so I will used it.
ROT66 will have to wait. Maybe at this time, he will get rid of childhood defects.
Why are you waiting for?? You get all the lumen in one hot spot with xpl hi.
Make sure you get the black rot66. I was told champagne color step down quicker.
What?!
I think it more likely that the stepdown time is very variable but completely random, depending on the very inaccurate internal temoerature sensor of the MCU.
Ok. I told him to test the rot66 champagne again.
Anyone know what size of Orings this thing takes?
Regarding the “boundary” between regulated and unregulated, what “level” is that at in terms of ramp? Ie if I wanted to set my ramp ceiling to the highest regulated, would it be 100 or 110 or whatever? Thanks!
Actually, is this meaningful at all? I just wanted to pick a max output (sub-turbo) that has a good balance of run time and brightness, or at least a more predictable run time. Imagine bringing this camping and having it on at 90% instead of 50% and the battery dies in less than an hour of use (of course I have many spares).
First, in smooth ramp, there is a little “hitch” when it transitions to or from the fully regulated modes.
Second, the “unregulated” zone blends is really a blend of regulated and unregulated, so being a bit over the fully regulated zone has a fairly minor hit on efficiency.
I knew I had seen this somewhere, I found it again in this post.
I believe the post is discussing ways to set up the variation of light intensity per step, but the info you were looking for is step 85 is the highest regulated output on the 7135 chips.
Exactly.
I set up the photo to make tint variations as visible as possible. Lights running at only ~50 lm, short exposure with low ISO, photo taken at an angle to avoid direct reflections, factory preset white balance, etc. Because, in general, none of our lights are truly pure white.
Well, except for a couple lights people made experimentally to see how close they could get to pure white. And, next to a ROT66-219b, pure white looks a bit green.
Personally, I like that. I think a rosy tint looks more white than a true pure white. That’s why I like the Nichia 219b so much.
Everything in the photos is white though. They’re just different shades of white, photographed carefully to make the different shades stand out.
I’ve had very few lights which I wouldn’t classify as white. Here’s one though. On the right is a D4-219c 5000K. And on the left is a D4 with dedomed XP-G2 emitters. It had good throw, but it made everything look gross. The tint was so far off white that I ended up un-modding it.
Wouldn’t this depend on the max allowed temperature you program in?
Yes, I think the next batch is supposed to have some things fixed.