I knew I had seen this somewhere, I found it again in this post.
I believe the post is discussing ways to set up the variation of light intensity per step, but the info you were looking for is step 85 is the highest regulated output on the 7135 chips.
Exactly.
I set up the photo to make tint variations as visible as possible. Lights running at only ~50 lm, short exposure with low ISO, photo taken at an angle to avoid direct reflections, factory preset white balance, etc. Because, in general, none of our lights are truly pure white.
Well, except for a couple lights people made experimentally to see how close they could get to pure white. And, next to a ROT66-219b, pure white looks a bit green.
Personally, I like that. I think a rosy tint looks more white than a true pure white. That’s why I like the Nichia 219b so much.
Everything in the photos is white though. They’re just different shades of white, photographed carefully to make the different shades stand out.
I’ve had very few lights which I wouldn’t classify as white. Here’s one though. On the right is a D4-219c 5000K. And on the left is a D4 with dedomed XP-G2 emitters. It had good throw, but it made everything look gross. The tint was so far off white that I ended up un-modding it.
Wouldn’t this depend on the max allowed temperature you program in?
Yes, I think the next batch is supposed to have some things fixed.
Different types of regulation.
Ramp level 85/150 is the highest level with fully-regulated power on the 7135 chips. Above that, the FET activates.
Thermal regulation is completely independent of that. It depends on the temperature the user configured. However, thermal regulation does a hardcoded floor, below which it will not attempt to reduce power for heat reasons. On the D4S, that floor is level 60/150.
These values are set in cfg-emisar-d4s.h , along with other hardware-specific parameters.
Yes. The anodizing color is not related to the thermal step-down behavior. That’s just random, based on factory variation in the attiny85 chip.
I have FSM / Anduril working on it though, and it includes a way to calibrate the sensor for more consistent behavior. It works on all Emisar lights and all Fireflies lights so far, plus a few others. And the D4S includes the calibration code too, because it’s built into RampingIOS V3.
That is what the stepped ramp is for. It allows hitting exactly the same level every time, for consistent and predictable runtimes.
Is there a place that breaks down exactly how to use every feature this light has? Like a step by step walkthrough of how to program the thermal config and how to program the ramps/floor/ceiling?
Nice info… gonna read it… what’s the difference between Anduril and narsil??
It’d be easier to say what’s the same. They both run on the same hardware, more or less. They both have smooth ramping with a very similar ramp interface, and they both have discrete levels… though the method for discrete levels is different. Otherwise, almost everything is different.
Same basic idea, when painted with broad strokes. But the details are all pretty different.
Duplicate post…
Want one of these just can’t manage to pull the trigger and spend more money. Just a bit more than I can justify. Damn this site and it’s temptations! :rage:
i though id give it a try and order one but the colour of the aux leds look the same as the torch from Int-outdoors. i’ll try and get a photo later when im home
Just to put it out there, white is only white when there are no shades. In my line of work, when a bride spends over $2000 for a white wedding dress it DANG SURE BETTER look white in the pictures! Never mind she stood in front of blue, green yellow and red stained glass with the sun shining through, she paid for white and it’s white she wants! No shades!
Thanks maukka!
Thank god for click to create absolute white point in software. 
One more reason I only shot 3 weddings ever. The first 2 were a breeze and the third was the reason I quit shooting weddings.
Yeah, it’s pretty rough.
I’ve got this light in my cart and know that as soon as I buy it and it ships there will be some more options. Hank is good about adding things after the launch and I am bad about waiting for them.
I keep saying “This is the last one for a while!”.
As a relative long-timer to the flashlight hobby what keeps drawing me back in is the amazing value, output, UI, and prices. We can buy for $48 something that 10x that much wouldn’t have bought 10 years ago. It’s a great time to be a flashoholic.
I got my Gray 219C D4s in today!
Size comparison:
Quick subjective impressions:
+The auxiliary cyan LEDs are pure awesome. They just faintly glow, and I would have them no other way.
+The size is very ergonomic. I already assumed it would be coming in, as I love the feel of 26650 tubes.
+The side switch is done just right— its surroundings are raised up for easy location, but the switch itself is recessed to prevent accidental activation. I hate switches that are hard to find (Catapult V6), but this one is easy and natural.
+The beam profile is nice— broad-ish hotspot with tint shift being minimal.
-The sharp edges along the lanyard hole stick out like a sore thumb. They prevent this from being the ultimate ergonomic light. Upon close look it doesn’t even seem to be chamfered.
- I wouldn’t say the tint is horrible, but bad—it’s noticeably green. I’m not even just comparing it to my rosy ROT66 either, I’m comparing it to my SC600 MK3 high, and more importantly, my Catapult V6 neutral white, which is also 5000k. I remember my Manker E14 (also sporting 5000k 90+ CRI 219Cs) to be greenish as well, but perhaps not as bad as this one.
-Feels light/hollow. Doesn’t have the same inspiring heft as my other lights.
Beam/Tint comparison pics later on.