I am perplexed.
The one on the left is the dome on I am guessing? Since it has a larger hotspot.
It is strange that the dedomed version seems to have less tint shift.
On one hand this makes sense, the dome is responsible for part of the tint shift we see.
On the other hand I have always seen the tint shift towards green/yellow when dedoming.
The left spot in this pic is the de-domed GT.
Don’t be perplexed, the tint shit in the lower modes is horrendous, I can’t stand it. But from 50–100 power it is a massive change in tint. Get rid of the phosphorous around the LED and the corona is greatly reduced on a shaved dome, complete de-domed LED, barely a ring, usually a blue halo from the sides of the LED die.
Now the clean de-domed LED only measures 6,200lm, it was making 8,500-8,800 depending on what batteries I used, before I shaved it really close (meh too close I guess) and diced the pad clean, but then after a couple Turbo blast, it started to burn, so I completely de-domed it. Smoked up my reflector a bit.
I just mostly run it in Turbo!
If it dies…. it dies…. 
Left is clearly the dedomed one in the second pic, just looks bigger in the first pic probably due to higher spot brightness.
Also very clear tint shift to warm white/yellow.
There’s a lot of lumens being lost from slicing the sides off of the phosphor, since the phosphor on the sides of the LED also gets excited.
The right spot is the de-domed in this pic. Bluish halo around the spot, Brown/Yellow around the dome on.
Hi,
is it possible to be set on list for one conversion kit in NW.
Maybe NW dedomed?
Is output like in video in post #2: XHP70.2 Dedomed plus Mosfet?
Thanks a lot.
You just need to fill out the form in post #1 to get on the list.
Dedoming (technically slicing the dome off) is not a factory option. You will have to do that yourself. I think I’ve posted two videos of Vestureofblood doing it.
If your going to slice off the dome, the color becomes warmer, so it’s suggested by Texas_Ace to start with the Cool White.
Output will be like the video.
Thanks, I´ve filled it out.
Warmer Tint about 4000K would be great, so If I order one 5000K, it will be good for me after slicing.
sorry for stupid question. What output modes have TA driver V2 for this light?
And will be the illuminated switch also illuminated after changing driver / LED?
Thanks a lot.
The switch light will work just the same as the stock GT.
You have the original GT light, correct? The GT70 driver will operate exactly the same. It has the same style of ramping and can also be switched to mode sets to give you low, medium and high, etc…
Yes I´ve original GT light with XHP35Hi.
So I only have to open it… ;).
Driver I´ve changed, but open the head was to hard for me… up to now… ;).
EDIT:
Is output with new carriers higher than with old ones?
Thanks
Not done a comparison measurement yet….
But it’s a good idea! I will do it, if I find some time….
HOT OFF THE HAZG PRESS
Next Update: September 7, 2018
Guys I have a favor to ask. Can someone please test the GT70 with the 35E cells from the xhp35 version? Money is kinda short for me right now and I wanted to know if the extra 40$ for the 8x 30Q set is worth it. Already spending 55$ for the conversion kit, I really don’t wanna drop 100$ right now unless it’s absolutely necessary. I have read somewhere that the amperage per cell, using all 8 cells, would be only 5 amps. I believe the 35E is capable of delivering that without much sagging. What I wanted to know is how much output will I lose if any at all. Thanks!
Did any in the USA that ordered caps and or straps for their light receive them with their light order. I was told by email that my caps and straps would be shipped to the USA with my light order, but that did not happen. I had great communication with Leo/Lumintop prior to getting my light, but now cannot get a response concerning the accessory order. Starting to get a little concerned about ordering a NW second light as regular consumer demand ramps up.
I don’t have Samsung 35e. I have lg mj1 which are similar to 35e… batteries are charging… will post lumen soon.
Thanks Newlumen! Very much appreciated.
I’ll charge mine for comparison purposes too.
The 35E’s will work fine but it will be less lumens. I am kinda curious on the exact lumen loss myself.
I’m planning on using my 35E cells, but if it will be better to use high drain cells I’ll pick up a set of VTC6 cells and solder blob them.
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,147
35e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087
Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
I ordered Giggle Monster NW.