Duplicate post…
Want one of these just can’t manage to pull the trigger and spend more money. Just a bit more than I can justify. Damn this site and it’s temptations! :rage:
i though id give it a try and order one but the colour of the aux leds look the same as the torch from Int-outdoors. i’ll try and get a photo later when im home
Just to put it out there, white is only white when there are no shades. In my line of work, when a bride spends over $2000 for a white wedding dress it DANG SURE BETTER look white in the pictures! Never mind she stood in front of blue, green yellow and red stained glass with the sun shining through, she paid for white and it’s white she wants! No shades!
Thanks maukka!
Thank god for click to create absolute white point in software. 
One more reason I only shot 3 weddings ever. The first 2 were a breeze and the third was the reason I quit shooting weddings.
Yeah, it’s pretty rough.
I’ve got this light in my cart and know that as soon as I buy it and it ships there will be some more options. Hank is good about adding things after the launch and I am bad about waiting for them.
I keep saying “This is the last one for a while!”.
As a relative long-timer to the flashlight hobby what keeps drawing me back in is the amazing value, output, UI, and prices. We can buy for $48 something that 10x that much wouldn’t have bought 10 years ago. It’s a great time to be a flashoholic.
I got my Gray 219C D4s in today!
Size comparison:
Quick subjective impressions:
+The auxiliary cyan LEDs are pure awesome. They just faintly glow, and I would have them no other way.
+The size is very ergonomic. I already assumed it would be coming in, as I love the feel of 26650 tubes.
+The side switch is done just right— its surroundings are raised up for easy location, but the switch itself is recessed to prevent accidental activation. I hate switches that are hard to find (Catapult V6), but this one is easy and natural.
+The beam profile is nice— broad-ish hotspot with tint shift being minimal.
-The sharp edges along the lanyard hole stick out like a sore thumb. They prevent this from being the ultimate ergonomic light. Upon close look it doesn’t even seem to be chamfered.
- I wouldn’t say the tint is horrible, but bad—it’s noticeably green. I’m not even just comparing it to my rosy ROT66 either, I’m comparing it to my SC600 MK3 high, and more importantly, my Catapult V6 neutral white, which is also 5000k. I remember my Manker E14 (also sporting 5000k 90+ CRI 219Cs) to be greenish as well, but perhaps not as bad as this one.
-Feels light/hollow. Doesn’t have the same inspiring heft as my other lights.
- No stainless steel bezel. I know it’s a budget light, but I’m going to put this on there anyways. When lights fall, then tend to hit themselves on their head. Even a tiny one as like on the Catapult V6 or Zebralight SC600 MK3 HI would suffice.
Beam/Tint comparison pics later on.
Congrats. i like to see 219c, xpg2 s4 3d, and xpl hi 5000k beamshot photos. Thanks
The sharp edges on that nub really rub me the wrong way, but its my only complaint about the light. The edges of the nub aren’t chamferred, and nor are the edges of the hole. It pretty much guarantees that any lanyard will be cut through before long, unless you use steel cable, and then you’ll end up sawing through the aluminum eventually.
Filing the edges is a functional fix, but I shouldn’t have had to do it. I hope he’ll have a fix down the road.
Just a few more weeks
Nice. You might get it in a week., you never know.
Green AUX leds, low and high
Can anyone tell me any real world differences between the xP-G2 and the XP-L HI. I was wondering what the real world differences are between the two LEDs such as output, thermal and battery run times. I have googled and read that the XP-L is more efficient above 1a but didn’t know if this was something that is real world noticiable or only paper noticeable. Thanks everyone
I was wondering that too. I haven’t seen any comparisons anywhere.
If we look at one led the XP-G2 only can draw around 4,5A or a little more with a DD fet driver due to higher forward voltage. At this current it puts out 1000-1100 lumens. But an XP-L or HI version can draw about 6A because lower forward voltage. And those leds put out 1500-1700 lumens so an XP-L has more output but higher current and more heat and faster draining battery.
The XP-G2 is being overdriven by a larger margin, makes more heat… like the Nichia 219C. The XP-L is rated for 3A, so we’re really not pushing it that much over it’s safe limits and as such, don’t see the heat problem. The smaller dies of the XP-G2 and Nichia give us more throw, the lower lumens of the XP-G2 are not as desirable.
In a triple or quad, the XP-L HI or HD is not likely to be pulling full direct drive power, typically only around 15A max in a triple so only about 5A per emitter, if that. The XP-G2 is not rated for 3A, merely 1.5A, so it’s getting overdriven a lot more. Cree states that the “high efficacy” variant can do 2A and has a Vf of around 3.08V at that level, while the standard is rated at 1.5A and Vf is about 3.13V. So, it’s only when pushed really hard that the XP-G2 shows a limiting forward voltage. These can be pushed to around 5.5A with a Buck driver for some 1100 lumens, lot of heat to deal with of course.
Edit: FWIW, their high efficacy variant is a flip chip with phosphor out to the edges where the standard model shows bond wires and the silvery substrate. 
Edit II: The high efficacy model is only rated to do 765 lumens at 2A.
Thank you both for your responses,I really appreciate them. I am going to wait for Mtn elect to just get xp-l hi back in stock.
In general, XP-L HI works better… but it also costs more.
It’s brighter, throwier, and has less tint shift. But that may or may not be worth the extra cost. XP-G2 is still very nice at lower levels.