Dug out my old X10vn out for my first “real life” spring bypass with 20AWG wire. Reading went from 88k to 94k Lux. Overall it’s a bit low compared to what others read, but I guess the increase is what matters.
Made the mistake of pre-tinning a bit too furiously and the wire lost at bit of flexibility on the ends of the silicone, but since the spring is so huge I could easily bend them a bit in place, now it’s perfect.
Enogear copper cube.
Made a new switch cover from brass tube and copper sheet.
Changed the emitter to Nichia 219C, FET15 driver and cut some CRX lines into the body so it looks even more cubey now :D 
Stock:
Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You 
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !!
I might have gone a little too far this time. Modified (again) my Noctigon M43.
It now has 12 Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters and makes 17,284.5 lumens on 4 Samsung 30Q cells. I used an FET+1 driver that I built, flashed with Anduril and utilizing the SIR800DP MOSFET, with 3 slave boards each also having the SIR800DP and an 350mA 7135 chip. Each of the 4 FET’s control one triple board. I don’t know for sure but I’m assuming power draw is in the 60A territory.
Lightning on Anduril at 17,000 lumens is pretty awesome! 
Thanks! I realize I left out one important bit, my motivation. I was looking for an inexpensive, readily available route to a high output 3v light, so I wouldn’t need the bulk of multiple cells, the expense of a high-current boost converter or a special host/optics/spacers. A 3v Luxeon MZ was my first thought, but then I saw these MCPCBs. For less than $5 with XP-G2s and $1 for a bare MCPCB, I figured it was worth a try. I still have a few empty PCBs, so I’ll probably do some more builds. I did have to hack on a centering ring/spacer, and even then, it probably intercepts some of the output.
As for the work mat, it’s a silicone potholder from Daiso (a Japaneese “dollar” store in the US that sells primarily chineese manufactured products). I started using it to insulate the worksurface, but it is handy for keeping things from getting away.
I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with Andúril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it. I made a little tool beacause cant find a good washer to help with the razor cut. If the hole was big enough then it was too thick. So find some aluminum sheet and choosed the best thickness and made this:
And after the cut it looked like this:
Then putted back in the head. It works:
It has a little yellow corona but not worse than with dome. It is not that ringy as on the pic. It is because the JPG compression:
Now it making 355500 cd and 7590 lumens which is good for 1192.5m throw.
Also replaced the SST40 in my heat colored L2 with Luxeon V. It make 150 lumens less and throws less also but it has larger hot spot and much nicer tint than SST40 so it stays in.
Search on Ali for: work mat
here a few of them
Screw Memory Mat White Magnetic Working Memory Pad Mobile Phone Repair Tools Palm Size 145 x 90mm
http://s.aliexpress.com/AB32QNJz
Heat Insulation Soldering Desk Mat Silicone Heat Gun BGA Soldering Station Pad Maintenance Working Mat Repair Tools
http://s.aliexpress.com/Ir6vMjiy
PHONEFIX 32cm*23cm Anti-Static Mat High Temperature Soldering Work Pad Repair Platform For iPhone iPad Samsung Xiaomi
http://s.aliexpress.com/z2emiyuy
Or search for: Honeycomb mat
2018 Home High Quality Square Honeycomb Silicone insulation Cushion Holder Placement Mat Of Home Dropshipping
http://s.aliexpress.com/2eeQrEZR
Zozz, the yellow corona comes from the phosphor that is covering the substrate. Since the 70.2 is a flip chip, there are no bond wires to break… use your razor blade and cut along the edge of the die in a straight down chop, like a guillotine, then push that phosphor that’s on the outside off the substrate. If you do this, where only the die has the yellow phosphor, your beam will look very much better.
Just be careful not to chip off the phosphor on the die or it will reveal the blue of the die and put out UV that could be harmful to your eyes. It’s pretty easy though, just be careful and take it easy.
Edit: Like this…
Nice mod. FET driven sliced XHP70.2 is a potent combination.
Also 7590 lumens directly
Always have to be considerate of the high power, you SURE don’t want to be looking into something like my Meteor that’s making 17,284 lumens when Turbo is hit!
I’ve gotten used to being hit in the face with lumens, 7600 lumens doesn’t bother me like it used to.
May not be able to see sometime in the not-so-distant future, but hey…
Edit: Hmmm, so it’s said that the XHP-70.2 is like 4 XP-L dies, right? My Emisar D4S is making 7300 lumens with Samsung emitters, pretty intense to be sure. Don’t want to stare into it when it’s, say, in Lightning mode (Anduril), and the MCU decides to throw a few full power bursts… my Meteor either for that matter!
I know the dangers. Just kidding. Never flash anybody in the eye with my lights. I have an MT09R with 21510 lumens. It is a beast.
Common leds with phosfor removed are 450nm royal blue leds, 450nm is not very nice to the eyes but they do not emit in UV.
I’ve always heard that the output from a die with damaged phosphor emitted UV light? When MEM was working on the aspheric throwers and the XP-G3 came out, I did some unsuccessful de-doming and had bare XP-G3’s, wired one up in a zoomie just to see what it did. Found it giving me a headache which is the first danger sign of excess UV. Perhaps it was just that die or perhaps it was something else entirely.
It is not the UV that gave you headaches but the 450nm blue light. Eyes are very insensitive to 450nm so with a lot of it you still do not see it very well, while your pupils adjust to the amount that you see and not the optical power and thus are wide open.
And isn’t 450nm blue light UV light? According to research online “The Phosphor white method produces white light in a single LED by combining a short wavelength LED such as blue or UV, and a yellow phosphor coating. The blue or UV photons generated in the LED either travels through the phosphor layer without alteration, or they are converted into yellow photons in the phosphor layer.” Technically UV stops at 400nm, so we’re splitting 50nm of spectrum and counting on the emitter manufacturer to get it right, for the most part.
So it would depend on the particular emitter as to whether or not the base output is in the UV spectrum or merely the blue light spectrum.
Potentially dangerous (or at best hazardous), regardless, so care should be taken to discard a damaged die.
All commonly used white leds in flashlights use 450nm blue leds under the phosfor. They do not emit UV.
Only a handful leds use a 400nm base led (best known are VTC-series Yuji leds) but those are all low or midpower leds so not found in flashlights (except that one or two BLF-weirdo’s made a flashlight out of them).
And recently Nichia used a 420nm base led for the cool Optisolis leds, also midpower and build into a few flashlights by BLF members suffering from tint-OCD.
A 2 in 1 tonight.
Nitecore Cx6 (this particular one started out white / red), it now sports a XP-L and a green XP-E2 cause that’s what I had laying around and I like building them as much as using them. I plan to get a PC amber XP-E2 next parts order and replace the green one then.
The color led driver is my last BLF-SK68 board, the white driver is a blf-17ddv3. These are my last two 13A driver builds!
Both run modified versions of TomE’s e-switch13 FW.
First we strip the factory driver and hook to the switch pads, while you’re at it find batt+ and GND on the factory driver contact plate.
Go ahead and sandwich those in there
Do some things here
Pry up the FET’s gate and add a 130ohm resistor cause for some reason the 17dd interfered with the other led on medium and high (but not ml, low or turbo) and started LVP ramp down immediately without it. The gate resistor fixed that!
*correction, lvp ramp was because R2 wasn’t grounded for some dumb reason
Glue is drying in the head, probably be tomorrow before I can wire the emitters up.
Oh my, I hope to learn enough one day to do things like that. Skill from experience has turned to Art for you, sweet
I am amazed at all the modding experience going on here. You guys are Good. So much to learn about drivers, I will try to keep up. It sure is tiny for 13A. You sure that may be a World Record tiny high amp setup ? Wow !!