Fireflies want me to send my broken XP-L version to Vinh or solder a new LED in. Neither options are viable.
Keep testing them, mine read anywhere from 4400 to 5700 depending on heat and voltage.
There might be turbo reset issues.
Maybe temperature calibrations are different? What are temperature reading? (double click from battery check)?
Like was said earlier, the thermal protection may be kicking in way too soon on the champagne model. Try manually setting the thermal limit. I’ve got a video on it if you don’t know how.
Rumor is Fireflies might be making an SST40 version (replacement for XPL-HI?) I don’t know much about the SST40. My order for an XPL-HI is on hold until they figure out the problem. A possible offer/solution is an SST40 version. (nothing concrete or confirmed at this point) Thoughts?
SST20?
The SST-40 is a 5050 led where the current one is 3535. So they’d have to make a new mcpcb. That seems unlikely. If true though, it’s a nice little led. Warmest color is 6500K and it has really high output.
Yeah, SST-20 is 3535. It’s die size is closer to XPG3 than xpl at 2mm^2 so output might be closer to the Nichia version.
It might be the ROT66 v2 with the aux led board…? The SST40 question was posed to me as a possible (if it’s made) replacement for my order. I don’t know much more than that.
If their optics are barely fitting 3535 LEDs it’s unlikely they meant SST40 without some other design changes. SST20 like mentioned above would give them another LED option with high CRI and small die with output probably somewhere between xpl and 219b.
I think an SST-40 would definitely be brighter then an xpl-hi version. You are just limited to a 6500K color (or 7500K, but that’s not a good option).
Good point, they’d need to change the optics as well as the mcpcb to fit SST-40.
Interesting. I’ll have to wait and see if I get anymore info or perhaps someone else will.
I like sst40. Some light sst40 stepdown very quickly. I don’t know why… example. My eagtac g25c2.
Confirmed SST20 in both 6500k and 4000k CRI95. Also XP G2 in NW and CW. Listed on the website.
Wonder how much 7135 for the version of SST20?
I received my ROT66 with Nichia 219B yesterday. So far, everything looks fine from outside.
Luckily, no dead LEDs but when looking onto the LEDs two of them show dark spots of their die-areas already and there seem to be dust or some kind of residue below the optic. It doesn't look nice even though it seems to have no real effect on the beam.
The side switch LEDs should better be aligned symmetrically to the flashlight body.
You can unscrew the steel bezel and carefully pry off the optics to blow them out, but you’ll still probably see some dust inside the optics. I’ve had a couple of optics based lights now including the D4s, and they all show some form of dust or another inside the optics once lit, it’s something where unless you’re in a vacuum assembling the optics, you’re going to see particles in the optics, because they’re like magnifying glasses.
Isn’t the general rule of thumb that anytime you unscrew the bezel of a light using this type of large optic that you can accidentally dedome all of your LEDs?
I think you’re supposed to carefully hold down the optic so that it doesn’t turn while you’re loosening and tightening the bezel.
I don’t know for sure, maybe someone else can comment on this.
You can also carefully pry off the switch bezel and get your switch lights lined up how you want them and then just tap the bezel back down.
I guess that would depend on how hard it is to unscrew the bezel. The bezel on my champagne ROT66 219B unscrews rather easily, while the optics have long pins that hold it in place, that was harder to pry out, had to carefully pull up on the side as I turned the light so I could pull it out evenly.
My black ROT66 219B, the bezel seems to be screwed on much tighter.
/\ Mine was the same