Honestly i like all 4 blf gt. More powerful, and longer runtime… i even like my blf gt xhp35 CW.
Good testing, this is why I use 3500ma cells for most of my lights.
Also goes to show how much of the initial drop in output is heat related and how much is voltage drop. The first 30 seconds is where the heat path gets thermally saturated, I am surprised how close the numebrs are at that point.
They will be coming with the dome on at this point, I do not trust them to slice the dome in bulk right now. It is possible they might offer some with a sliced dome later but I would not hold your breath.
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led as it was basically the only thing available right now without an 8-12 week wait for a special production run and a minium order of 3500 pieces. The 4000k they actually wanted to do but it seems the supplier sold out of them in the last few weeks and they are no longer available :person_facepalming:
No exact time frame yet but from past experience I would say the time frame in the OP should hold, sometime in the next ~2 weeks they should go live on the lumintop website and ship a week or so later.
At which point a new wave of emails will be sent out to everyone with a (most likely) new code.
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. 
…
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess. 
So this would be also good for dedome.
I like warmer tint, also in Throwers.
Same for me, I´ve a lot of VTC6 Cells and I´ve tested this with good results in other lights:
EDIT:
Maybe soldered magnets should be better.
I´ve got some solderwire from a colleague, that should have low melting temperature.
Is this DTP MCPCB with 12V configuration available separate?
And what about the driver?
I´ve some XHP70.2 P2 LEDs.
Sony VTC6 is considered a high drain cell so it is good. The 35E has more capacity in exchange for less amperage output. Still, when you use 8 of them you don’t see such a large difference in output. If you only use 4 x 35E cells you would get a bigger drop in output.
I would not solder magnets. They have high resistance. It’s better to just blob the solder. I bought some brass buttons that are 2mm tall and 5mm wide. I might try to solder them on instead of a solder blob.
The mcpcb is not available seperate. Only as part of the conversion kit.
From a couple days ago:
Ok,
thanks a lot.
So maybe I´ve to wait for that conversion kit.
Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.
Thanks.
Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?
Thanks for the update!
Clean them then! Lol. I don’t think it would be much issue on a Q8 light where the tops slide across a brass ring. IDK.
Maybe I need copper buttons? Those surely oxidize.
Maybe a little layer of solder on the top will keep it clean?
I was also thinking I could solder some of these on top. It has to be better than spot welding them.
.
Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.
So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.
Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCB…
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…
Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2
There’s lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.
I haven’t tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.
That’s actually very good! I’m happy now. Won’t be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!
Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Let’s put them 35Es to work!
P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.