The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. …
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. …
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
So this would be also good for dedome.
I like warmer tint, also in Throwers.
Same for me, I´ve a lot of VTC6 Cells and I´ve tested this with good results in other lights:
EDIT:
Maybe soldered magnets should be better.
I´ve got some solderwire from a colleague, that should have low melting temperature.
Is this DTP MCPCB with 12V configuration available separate?
And what about the driver?
I´ve some XHP70.2 P2 LEDs.
Sony VTC6 is considered a high drain cell so it is good. The 35E has more capacity in exchange for less amperage output. Still, when you use 8 of them you don’t see such a large difference in output. If you only use 4 x 35E cells you would get a bigger drop in output.
I would not solder magnets. They have high resistance. It’s better to just blob the solder. I bought some brass buttons that are 2mm tall and 5mm wide. I might try to solder them on instead of a solder blob.
The mcpcb is not available seperate. Only as part of the conversion kit.
From a couple days ago:
atbglenn:Are there any plans to offer spare parts for the GT70?. Like switches, driver boards, lenses, etc?
The conversion kit is as close as we will get to most of that. It does include the driver, mcpcb, LED, switch and centering ring.
Ok,
thanks a lot.
So maybe I´ve to wait for that conversion kit.
Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.
Thanks.
In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led as it was basically the only thing available right now without an 8-12 week wait for a special production run and a minium order of 3500 pieces. The 4000k they actually wanted to do but it seems the supplier sold out of them in the last few weeks and they are no longer available :person_facepalming:
No exact time frame yet but from past experience I would say the time frame in the OP should hold, sometime in the next ~2 weeks they should go live on the lumintop website and ship a week or so later.
At which point a new wave of emails will be sent out to everyone with a (most likely) new code.
Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?
Thanks for the update!
Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.
Thanks.
Clean them then! Lol. I don’t think it would be much issue on a Q8 light where the tops slide across a brass ring. IDK.
Maybe I need copper buttons? Those surely oxidize.
Maybe a little layer of solder on the top will keep it clean?
I was also thinking I could solder some of these on top. It has to be better than spot welding them.
.
Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?Thanks for the update!
Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.
So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.
Kingjohn:Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?Thanks for the update!
Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.
So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.
Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCB…
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…
Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…
There’s lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.
I haven’t tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,14735e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
That’s actually very good! I’m happy now. Won’t be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!
Blf gt 70 with 30q. 6240 lumen
Blf gt 70 lg Mj1. 6200 lumen
I only test for like 5 seconds… so I think Samsung 35e should be fine…
Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Let’s put them 35Es to work!
Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. …
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.
Maverick1947: Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
teacher: Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. …
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yep… what TA said.
Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener.
The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.
I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.
Maverick1947: teacher: Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. …
……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?
Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yep… what TA said.
Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener.
The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.
Hmm I see. My L6 is 3A. Maybe that’s why I like it. Well. Now I will just do a little more research to try and decide it.
Thanks teacher.