The BLF GT70 "Giggle Monster" is here! 7,500lumens, 1,500m throw! Group buy Closed!

The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED

:+1: … Looks good except possibly for that “C” part. :wink:

……. Oh well, can’t have it all I guess. :smiley:

So this would be also good for dedome.
I like warmer tint, also in Throwers.

Same for me, I´ve a lot of VTC6 Cells and I´ve tested this with good results in other lights:

EDIT:
Maybe soldered magnets should be better.
I´ve got some solderwire from a colleague, that should have low melting temperature.

Is this DTP MCPCB with 12V configuration available separate?
And what about the driver?

I´ve some XHP70.2 P2 LEDs.

Sony VTC6 is considered a high drain cell so it is good. The 35E has more capacity in exchange for less amperage output. Still, when you use 8 of them you don’t see such a large difference in output. If you only use 4 x 35E cells you would get a bigger drop in output.

I would not solder magnets. They have high resistance. It’s better to just blob the solder. I bought some brass buttons that are 2mm tall and 5mm wide. I might try to solder them on instead of a solder blob.

The mcpcb is not available seperate. Only as part of the conversion kit.

From a couple days ago:

Ok,

thanks a lot.

So maybe I´ve to wait for that conversion kit.

Brass buttons have the problem, that if they get oxidized, resistance will be higher.

Thanks.

Too bad….
Will they try to get the 4000K version for a later time?

Thanks for the update!

Clean them then! Lol. I don’t think it would be much issue on a Q8 light where the tops slide across a brass ring. IDK.

Maybe I need copper buttons? Those surely oxidize.

Maybe a little layer of solder on the top will keep it clean?

I was also thinking I could solder some of these on top. It has to be better than spot welding them.


.

Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.

So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.

Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCB…
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)

Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…

Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2

There’s lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.

I haven’t tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.

That’s actually very good! I’m happy now. Won’t be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!

Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Let’s put them 35Es to work!

P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?

Yes, P2 is the highest bin.

The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.

Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?

It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.

If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.

Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.

Yep… what TA said. :frowning:

Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener. :frowning:

The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.

I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.

I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.

Hmm I see. My L6 is 3A. Maybe that’s why I like it. Well. Now I will just do a little more research to try and decide it.
Thanks teacher.